Hard start and blue smoke from engine compartment (3FE)

[shoengine]

Our '89 FJ62 had a hard start this morning, which is unusual. It is quite cold here (for us, 30° F), but has been and this is the first I noticed. My wife had this happen about a year ago, so proceeded to turn it over with some heavy throttle and after about 20 seconds got it to start. I had the hood up and noticed blue smoke billowing from the passenger side of the engine compartment and it smelled like fuel. I assume that the engine is sealed up, which makes me wonder where the fuel could be coming from then subsequently burning?

We've been getting an intermittent check engine light while driving, although I haven't figured out how to check the codes.

 

[shoengine]

Pulled the codes yesterday: 22, 24, 31, 51. Nothing that seemingly would prevent the vehicle from starting.

On the other hand, the cap is not looking good so I'm going to replace that, the rotor, plugs and wires, since none of that had been done since we've owned it.

 

[shoengine]

Pulled the spark plug from the rear most cylinder. Totally out of spec. Probably close to 0.038 gap.

Took out the remaining and only #1 was close to spec at about .034

 

[shoengine]

Just realized this, but the new cap only has one vacuum hose connection, and neither the hose from the intake or the firewall connects to it. Does the cap need a vacuum?

Can I just connect the firewall hose directly to the intake?

 

[shoengine]

Even the rotor was screwed. Took it off and the contract broke off.

 

[shoengine]

Well, car starts again. Glad it was just the ignition system being about 10 - 15 years out of maintenance. Only put about 20K on it, but very surprised this wasn't serviced when we brought it in during 2015!

 

[dmjay]

So in summary, hard starting due to neglect ( 10 - 15 years of no maintenance ).
Comes to website to complain about it.
Got it.

 

[shoengine]

So in summary, hard starting due to neglect ( 10 - 15 years of no maintenance ).
Comes to website to complain about it.
Got it.

Complaining? No. Asking for help, yes.

I apologize if I offended your sensibilities.

I do have a proper question in the thread if you'd like to read through it.

 

[Old Nick]

Complaining? No. Asking for help, yes.

I apologize if I offended your sensibilities.

I do have a proper question in the thread if you'd like to read through it.

Stuff happens. You got it sorted. Right on. Heck, comments like the one made above (not yours, the one to which you were replying)... are throw away nonsense. Glad that you got your truck back on the road.

 

[shoengine]

Thanks @Old Nick , I don't participate on this forum a whole lot because I don't really have a lot of interaction with this vehicle (it's the wife's primary form of transportation so I'm flirting with danger any time I dig into it), so that is probably part of it.

I have the maintenance schedule so now that I'm properly shamed I can right the ship, so to speak.

 

[Old Nick]

Thanks @Old Nick , I don't participate on this forum a whole lot because I don't really have a lot of interaction with this vehicle (it's the wife's primary form of transportation so I'm flirting with danger any time I dig into it), so that is probably part of it.

I have the maintenance schedule so now that I'm properly shamed I can right the ship, so to speak.

You got it. There are so many helpful people here on Mud, but there are a handful that are a little less than helpful… lol. I’m glad that you got the right sorted.

I’m due for a spark plug change, dizzy check and new valve cover gasket soon too.

Your post nudged me to get those items on my agenda.

 

[too tall]

Just realized this, but the new cap only has one vacuum hose connection, and neither the hose from the intake or the firewall connects to it. Does the cap need a vacuum?

View attachment 3850192

Can I just connect the firewall hose directly to the intake?

No vacuum needed for that distributor . It is electronic , the advance is controlled by the ecm. The holes are for venting.

 

[shoengine]

No vacuum needed for that distributor . It is electronic , the advance is controlled by the ecm. The holes are for venting.

Good to know. This is my only vehicle with a distributor so I only know what I've read. Right now it just has a loose fitting cap on the vent hole so it shouldn't cause any positive pressure.

One more thing, the top of the distributor area under the rotor is pretty dirty. Is that normal with use? Does it need to be inspected and cleaned?

 

[Old Nick]

Good to know. This is my only vehicle with a distributor so I only know what I've read. Right now it just has a loose fitting cap on the vent hole so it shouldn't cause any positive pressure.

One more thing, the top of the distributor area under the rotor is pretty dirty. Is that normal with use? Does it need to be inspected and cleaned?

While you’re in there, yes, inspect and clean everything up. If you haven’t already, I would strongly recommend downloading the factory service manual (FSM) from the resources section at the top of the page. It’s an amazing, step-by-step resource.

 

[shoengine]

The vehicle was running fine for a few weeks, but now I'm getting a code (22) and it dies randomly at stop lights. Idle seems good, around 650-700. CEL flashes but when I check it is just an issue with the coolant temperature sensor (according to the book). I tested the sensor before I installed it a few months back, and it was fine. I checked the pinpoint diagnostics and the wiring seems alright.

Would the temperature sensor cause it to die when letting off the brake and then depressing the gas peddle after being stopped for a minute or two?

If not, what else could be going on?

 

[Old Nick]

The vehicle was running fine for a few weeks, but now I'm getting a code (22) and it dies randomly at stop lights. Idle seems good, around 650-700. CEL flashes but when I check it is just an issue with the coolant temperature sensor (according to the book). I tested the sensor before I installed it a few months back, and it was fine. I checked the pinpoint diagnostics and the wiring seems alright.

Would the temperature sensor cause it to die when letting off the brake and then depressing the gas peddle after being stopped for a minute or two?

If not, what else could be going on?

efi relay?

 

[shoengine]

efi relay?

Not familiar with that, but I'll look it up in the manual.

FYI, the negative battery clamp was loose on the terminal, and I cut off the old clamp and attached a new one. Not sure if they were related, but having a good connection is definitely important.

 

[Old Nick]

Not familiar with that, but I'll look it up in the manual.

FYI, the negative battery clamp was loose on the terminal, and I cut off the old clamp and attached a new one. Not sure if they were related, but having a good connection is definitely important.

I've got an '88 62. I've never had a problem with the fuel injection system (knock on wood). But, my wife's 80 has been giving me fits with crank/no starts. Her rig has a 1FZ-FE. Just changed out the EFI relay on that truck and it's been cranking/starting as it should... at least today... lol. 80 owners with the 3FE engine (the "same" as the 62s) are prone to the same EFI issues.

One more thing: have you checked your neutral safety switch? If it's out of alignment/adjustment, it can cause crank/no start issues. I have definitely had that issue with my 62.

 

[Hammer45]

efi relay?

This was my issue that sounds similar to yours. The red wire going from the ecu to the main EFI relay was bent over INSIDE THE MALE FITTING GOING INTO THE RELAY CONNECTION. How in the world? Had to use a little pick to pull the rubber piece that the wires go thru to see it was bent over and broken and intermittently making contact. I used a jumper wire that basically connects the larger two wires and that turns the ecu on permanently. It ran fine then but runs the battery down if left that way.

 

[Old Nick]

This was my issue that sounds similar to yours. The red wire going from the ecu to the main EFI relay was bent over INSIDE THE MALE FITTING GOING INTO THE RELAY CONNECTION. How in the world? Had to use a little pick to pull the rubber piece that the wires go thru to see it was bent over and broken and intermittently making contact. I used a jumper wire that basically connects the larger two wires and that turns the ecu on permanently. It ran fine then but runs the battery down if left that way.

It's always something... lol. Besides all of the experience that Mud offers, one of the things that I like best are reading posts like yours. Figuring it out and passing on the knowledge.

Now, the 62 has a pretty major exhaust leak... time for new gaskets.