Harbor Freight 50-300 ft-lb torque wrench, newer version is shorter (1 Viewer)

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I picked up a "Pittsburgh" brand Harbor Freight torque wrench model #0808 (3/4" drive, 50-300 ft-lb) this evening for $79. Something I noticed at the store; there was one remaining slightly older model manufactured in August 2010 which is 33 1/2 inches long and comes with a certificate of calibration (+/- 4%) and a warranty card. The newer model 0808, same specs, 3/4" drive, 50-300ft-lb, also on the shelf had different packaging but was about 5 inches shorter in length than the older version and did not come with a warranty card or calibration certificate?? I bought the longer one that came with the paperwork.

Any thoughts on the difference in length between the two torque wrenches with the same model number and same torque range, but the newer version being shorter??
Pittsburgh Harbor Freight Torque Wrench 50-300.jpg
 
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That's part of the reason I grabbed the older one, more leverage, but also the hand signed calibration certificate and warranty card. I plan on using it at the max setting for tightening the crank bolt.
 
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nicholas: I've read about using a long 14mm socket but not a brass drift, what holds the brass drift in place? Which method did you use to break the 30mm crank bolt free, bump starter method, and how long a breaker bar did you use?
 
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I bought a HF torque wrench too along w/ their 3/4" drive breaker bar. Using the 14mm deep well socket and starter bump is the easiest method IMHO.
 
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arndog: How long a 3/4" drive breaker bar did you use and where did you buy it? My local HF had a 25 " long bar, but it was only 1/2" drive. The longest 3/4" I can find locally is about 20".
 
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Did you place the 20" bar for the starter bump against the right side of the frame, and did you have to use pipe over the bar for more reach??
 
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I personaly dont like the bump start method, or you can remove the little rubber inspection window down on the tranny and put a good quality 14mm deep socket on one of the drive plate bolts and snug it againts the tranny housing and crank away it was a little tough at first but it let loose. And I just put the crank bolt back on the same way reverse process worked like a charm. Use the torque wrench set the crank bolt to 300 lbs and then after that put the 3/4' breaker bar on it and crank it a little bit more to make sure you are over 300 lbs of torque on the bolt. It is actually really easy. Now the oil pump cover screws are another story.
 
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Is anyone using threadlock on the crank bolt? When I did the timing belt on a 4-Runner (5vz) we owned the consensus was to use blue threadlock because they had a reputation for working themselves loose, though it was only torqed to 240 ft/lbs.
 
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Actually, was wondering that myself and whether the bolt and crank threads should be dry or oiled or ??
 
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I don't see any reason not to use threadlock. The blue though, not the red as you may never get it off without heat. It's just extra peace of mind...
 
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kidglove; this torque wrench will continue to turn past 300 ft-lb, so figured I'd just set it on 304 ft-lb, and pull until it clicks. If the +/-4% calibration error is all on the high end that would put it at 316 ft-lb, if on the low end I'd end up with 292 ft-lb.

About using a thread-locker; couldn't find it in the FSM but IIRC from reading somewhere that thread-locker is usually used when a lock washer isn't being used??
 
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Hold the presses; just used this new HF 300 ft lb torque wrench for the first time on an 80 series crank pulley bolt and guess what; no clicky!! I wrenched as hard as I could set on 300 and no click, so I turned down the setting to 275 thinking maybe it was set too high, no click, then 200, no click, 100, no click, 50, still no click but with the bolt on as tight as I could get it. Geez, another trip to HF (80 miles round trip). I'm asking for gas money.
 

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