Haltech IC7 (3 Viewers)

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Joined
Jul 25, 2023
Threads
17
Messages
357
Location
Haslet, TX
I didn’t see a thread when I searched and I would imagine there would be.

Has anyone installed the Haltech IC7 dash in their 80 series before and if so your thoughts on it ?

Here is a pic of one installed in another rig.

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I didn’t see a thread when I searched and I would imagine there would be.

Has anyone installed the Haltech IC7 dash in their 80 series before and if so your thoughts on it ?

Here is a pic of one installed in another rig.

View attachment 3906094

I’d spring for the UC-10 as it fills the dash much better than the IC-7. I installed a UC-10 on my Tacoma and absolutely love it. However, I cannot bring myself to do it on the FZJ after considering all of the dash indicator lights that will need to be relocated elsewhere. I “relocated” the lockers and 4WD indicators on my Tacoma as I could not do without them. These dashes only have a few indicators that can be displayed, and the FZJ just has way more dash lights than the Tacoma does.

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Now we are talking…. Yes

I really like how the UC10 fills the dash …. Great point I didn’t think of Indicator lights!

My truck isn’t front - rear locked right now OEM and till be locked pretty soon. Didn’t consider using the exalting lights for status on the lockers… but you could

Secondly, what indicators are needed to display that are not provisioned on the UC10?

I unfamiliar with the IC10 but love the look. So have to ask are they built in indicators like turn signals , check engine lamp maybe in the UC10?

Next would be how you come up with the back mounting for the UC10 as I saw them available for the IC7 for the cruisers?
Did you modify one of those to fit the UC10?

The smaller display of the Ic7 is a hesitation for me having all that extra room and I remember seeing your post in this UC10.

Indicator lights:
Turn/ left right
Center dif lock
ABS
Hi low beam
Check engine lamp / I am full haltech too
Low oil level light system

What I miss ?

Those three individual lamps you have, were may I ask you get them?

Thanks
 
Now we are talking…. Yes

I really like how the UC10 fills the dash …. Great point I didn’t think of Indicator lights!

My truck isn’t front - rear locked right now OEM and till be locked pretty soon. Didn’t consider using the exalting lights for status on the lockers… but you could

Secondly, what indicators are needed to display that are not provisioned on the UC10?

I unfamiliar with the IC10 but love the look. So have to ask are they built in indicators like turn signals , check engine lamp maybe in the UC10?

Next would be how you come up with the back mounting for the UC10 as I saw them available for the IC7 for the cruisers?
Did you modify one of those to fit the UC10?

The smaller display of the Ic7 is a hesitation for me having all that extra room and I remember seeing your post in this UC10.

Indicator lights:
Turn/ left right
Center dif lock
ABS
Hi low beam
Check engine lamp / I am full haltech too
Low oil level light system

What I miss ?

Those three individual lamps you have, were may I ask you get them?

Thanks

I believe the UC10 has provisions for 8 indicator lights. I've listed 6 indicators below that I deem necessary, which leaves 2 remaining for a long list of other indicators desired; 4WD, FR Locker, RR Locker, ABS off, Cruise Control, etc. I am trying to avoid having various indicators outside of the dash screen on the FZJ.
R turn
L turn
parking brake
headlight/parking light
high beams
check engine light

With the latest firmware uprgrade, the indicators can be changed to display whatever logo you want, where you want.

I purchased the seperate indicator lights on Amazon, see below, and the dash mount from Mako Motorsport, also below.

 
I believe the UC10 has provisions for 8 indicator lights. I've listed 6 indicators below that I deem necessary, which leaves 2 remaining for a long list of other indicators desired; 4WD, FR Locker, RR Locker, ABS off, Cruise Control, etc. I am trying to avoid having various indicators outside of the dash screen on the FZJ.
R turn
L turn
parking brake
headlight/parking light
high beams
check engine light

With the latest firmware uprgrade, the indicators can be changed to display whatever logo you want, where you want.

I purchased the seperate indicator lights on Amazon, see below, and the dash mount from Mako Motorsport, also below.

Sweet, I see the mount and glad one is printed / made.

Yeah parking brake a good one….

Yeah that proposes a delma for sure.

One place to add them is to the left / right of the display but making it look deliberate and with purpose would be key to spending hat kind of money and want a planned look.

The trim panel is made out of unattainim at a reasonable price and modifying it just isn’t in the big picture plan lets say.

Well a lot to consider and see why you haven’t made the move on your FJZ80.

Thanks for the info , a huge help.

Tex
 
Ok, the UC10 when I called Haltech, they claim the AVIs can be configured and setup as warning / indicator lamps.

With 10 AVis available,

1- fuel gauge
2 - oil pressure
3-
4-
5-
6-
7-
8-
9-
10- scroll button if you want

Leaves 7 available unless you would like another pressure indicator or can share AVI from the Haltech 2500 too, and canbus info over.

2 for turns signals
1 hi beam
1 Park brake

1- configured ABS warning
1- configured Cruise
1- configured center dif Lock

That’s 7 AVIs total

Canbus pass through Check Engine Lamp and coolant temp info from 2500

8 warnings / indicators configured if I understand Haltech correctly

The NSP software I see you can change a file to change an icon of the warning … possibly an uploaded image too if proper size and file type.

In my case with the 2500 and not triple locked this could work:

Use switches with own indicators for lockers either electric or air via center console maybe? Or replacement blank in the Ashtray space ?

Zero permanent modifications performed to truck and can be reversed.

Your thoughts

Tex
 
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Ok, the UC10 when I called Haltech, they claim the AVIs can be configured and setup as warning / indicator lamps.

With 10 AVis available,

1- fuel gauge
2 - oil pressure
3-
4-
5-
6-
7-
8-
9-
10- scroll button if you want

Leaves 7 available unless you would like another pressure indicator or can share AVI from the Haltech 2500 too, and canbus info over.

2 for turns signals
1 hi beam
1 Park brake

1- configured ABS warning
1- configured Cruise
1- configured center dif Lock

That’s 7 AVIs total

Canbus pass through Check Engine Lamp and coolant temp info from 2500

8 warnings / indicators configured if I understand Haltech correctly

The NSP software I see you can change a file to change an icon of the warning … possibly an uploaded image too if proper size and file type.

In my case with the 2500 and not triple locked this could work:

Use switches with own indicators for lockers either electric or air via center console maybe? Or replacement blank in the Ashtray space ?

Zero permanent modifications performed to truck and can be reversed.

Your thoughts

Tex
Hmm….I’m guessing the new firmware update changes this.

Before this, I believe that the amount of indicator lights you could have was limited by the number of indicator locations available on the premade screen layout you selected. With the new ability to create custom screen layouts, you could conceivably have an entire screen of indicator lights, and would then be limited by the amount to inputs you have available.
 
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Hmm….I’m guessing the new firmware update changes this.

Before this, I believe that the amount of indicator lights you could have was limited by the number of indicator locations available on the premade screen layout you selected. With the new ability to create custom screen layouts, you could conceivably have an entire screen of indicator lights, and would then be limited by the amount to inputs you have available.
Well I took the plunge and ordered the dash from my supplier that helped me with my Turbo kit and order the dash mount from the link above.

I have to work out the cruise situation to get it to work from the lose of Speedo signal from the OE instrument cluster .

Tech at Haltech doesn’t support this type of cruise because Haltech is not in control basically.

Since I am kinda techy the guy wouldn’t tell me how, but said it can be done fairly easy. I am sure it’s enabling an DPO output and configuration in the software. We will see if I am right.

Thanks
 
So has anyone else determined how to configure the IC7 or UC10 to send speed reference signal to the cruise control ?
 
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Just an update,

The UC10 arrived today after shipping an IC7 by mistake and they notified me in advance of the error. The uc10 arrived as did the 3d printed mount for it.

My cruise works full stand alone Haltech 2500 now. The speed input is 12 volt square wave to the instrument cluster. Now what coming out of the cluster to the cruise ECM is the next hurdle to discover. I am thinking 5 volt square wave and have to finger same frequency or is it changed from the input from the speed sensor on the transfer case.

So some testing will have to happen to compare in to cluster as to out from cluster before assumptions are made.

If anyone knows pleased chime in…

About 300 miles on my fresh engine / trans / turbo intercooler setup and love it. Going for fan clutch mod next to change its oil and adjust temp when it starts to lock up. My one blue clutch free wheels a little too much at lower radiator temps and my Orange hub fan clutch it way to engaged at lower temps. Need a middle balance between them.

At 90 degrees outside the blue is maintaining temps but could be better for the ac with a touch more air flow with stop and go traffic.

Tex
 
The UC10 and dash mount has arrived. Yesterday I removed the instrument cluster from the truck and plugged it in and lay it sideways to get access to the plugs. Jacked the front and rear tires up to start the truck and take a down and dirty scope read at 10 mph to see what signals are coming into and out of the instrument cluster.

It appears saw tooth oscillating signal with similar events per same time period at different voltages. 1 in is the 12 volt to sensor and 7 ish volt to the instrument cluster. I imagine it’s an advantage voltage reading DC. With the low at ground zero volts.

The output is a sign wave with the hi averaging 3 ish volts.

Next I suppose I break out the dual trace scope and over lay the timing and read signals.

I imagine the Haltech under generic could trigger and out DPO to reproduce a hi low signal to replicate the dash cluster. Why this would be needed, to give the OE cruise ECU the speed info needed to allow cruise to work.

The timing is similar on the events per division.

Anyone else worked through this before getting their oe cruise to work via IC7 or UC10 dash change?

Thanks

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Well got my dual trace out did same test.

As elected 12-14 volt square wave from speed sensor on Transfer case .

And 5-6 volt square wave on speed out from cluster

Speed from 10 to 20 and see a frequency change

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Well got the dash tempo installed and worked through the indicators I elected to have.

Besides the normal , turn, hi beam, park brake, check engine light,

I added , 4wheel lock, ABS and Cruise

Leaving out front, rear lockers, transfer case neutral, door open, low oil level, seat belt and some I am sure I forget to mention.

The kewl factor, plus IO expansion across my Haltech ECU, and flexibility now with new firmware releases the options are endless now.

This is the main stuff I need for now.

Oil pressure I trying OE sender and it grounds pretty quick to read the highest reading you set. Engine off reads zero for now. I may have to run a dedicated sensor to the engine / dash to get more accurate data.

Fuel level was full already and set that capacity and 90 plus percent . I have an other gas tank Low range extra 14 gals going in, and I will calibrate it then.

Bought a device to take input square wave and change it and send it to the cruise. On test drive cruise is a no go for now. I have to jack up the tires and back prob the input to the cruise and see what I am getting. I did see like a 6-7 volt square wave out and 5 isn’t strong enough to the cruise to recognize it.

This is the update as of today

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Well got the dash tempo installed and worked through the indicators I elected to have.

Besides the normal , turn, hi beam, park brake, check engine light,

I added , 4wheel lock, ABS and Cruise

Leaving out front, rear lockers, transfer case neutral, door open, low oil level, seat belt and some I am sure I forget to mention.

The kewl factor, plus IO expansion across my Haltech ECU, and flexibility now with new firmware releases the options are endless now.

This is the main stuff I need for now.

Oil pressure I trying OE sender and it grounds pretty quick to read the highest reading you set. Engine off reads zero for now. I may have to run a dedicated sensor to the engine / dash to get more accurate data.

Fuel level was full already and set that capacity and 90 plus percent . I have an other gas tank Low range extra 14 gals going in, and I will calibrate it then.

Bought a device to take input square wave and change it and send it to the cruise. On test drive cruise is a no go for now. I have to jack up the tires and back prob the input to the cruise and see what I am getting. I did see like a 6-7 volt square wave out and 5 isn’t strong enough to the cruise to recognize it.

This is the update as of today

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View attachment 3936056
Nice work. Maybe you can customize the dash to mimic the stock cluster.;) I have seen some creative cluster layouts since the firmware that allowed full customization was rolled out.

I'd look at a Syltech Combo sensor for Oil pressure and Temp. These have had very good reviews, which has been my experience too.

I also found this infromation in the FSM for calibrating your fuel level. With a 240 ohm pull-up on AVI1, you are looking at 0.062V at FULL, and 1.571V at EMPTY.

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Oh thanks for the info…

Reviewing the cruise control and how it works. It pulls current through the Gauge fuse through the light circuit acting like a pull up resistor to battery voltage. When you select the cruise momentary button press it turns on, and grounds this lead to activate the light.

I wired this to the Haltech dash UC10 and used an AVI and enabled a pull up resistor on it. It only pulls up 5 volts though not battery voltage. Pressing the momentary on button does achieve grounding of this AVI and immulates the cruise dedicated light.

If this circuit was let’s say not enough current one might think the cruise ECU woudnt respond to grounding this circuit.

either this or the speed reference is off is causing my cruise not to work where it previously did.

12-14 volts square wave in from speed sensor is a known , and the OE dash sends same frequency square wave out but diferant voltage. This is a known and could be my issue. I tried a 12-14 volt in and 5 volt out converter and the cruise isn’t working yet.

Tex
 
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I can report back, tapping at the cruise ECU this signal was really low using this converter. So that isn’t going to work.

I will remove this converter and keep trying something else.

ChargedSHOTaco thanks for the info on the fuel level sensor. I updated the calibration file and reading nearly full. That
Corresponds with approx how much fuel the tank should have.

As I dive it before new fuel tank exchange, I get a feel how accurate it really is. I know to about 10 miles give or take for my fuel light to come on that is now not there.
I always kinda set a trip meter even riding motorcycles and flying airplanes, and never trusted “Guess Gages”.

Thanks


Tex
 
Cruise fixed !





1. Took 12 -14 volt square wave input , ran it through my resistor box, and 1m ohm resistor dropped the voltage to 6-7 volts square wave ,


Connected it output line to cruise and other ECUs

This caused a Dropped to 3-4 volts square wave. I Kept dropping the resistance until all was out and settled 6-7 volts square wave to Cruise ECU.


Yeah! Simple tie them together spd in to old dash and spd out from old dash. My new dash uses Trigger on transmission to transfer case to get its speed reference. This way it will shift when in low range.


Cruise still didn't work after correcting input square wave.


Hum, dash removal broke cruise light 12-14 volt when inactive
Also broke Park Brake switch 12-14 volts when park brake is off .


That did it, two step up resistors , 2.2k to 12-24 volts pulling up the two circuits

Cruise active light and park brake warning light.


Disabled pull up in Haltech dash at 5 volts and now the cruise works. Seeing the 12-14 volts when cruise is on through parking brake disable switch … it grounded he circuit “causing light bulb illumination and this voltage drop at Cruise ECU disables the cruise.


Yes, the cruise works now!
 

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