Had my PowerStop rotors turned

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

GaFJC

GaFJC

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Threads
21
Messages
553
Location
Southern Mountains
Joy oh joy. While in the process of chasing down my vibration issues my mech discovered that my new PowerStop rotors were slightly distorted. Apparently 10 to 15% of all rotors come out of the box slightly imperfect.

Now after only 2k miles I've had my new rotors turned to the tune of $190. No, I don't ride my brakes and yes the rotors and pad were bedded exactly to PowerStop specs.

I'd suggest anyone check theirs before installing to avoid this fun. My mech says you should do it with most rotors regardless of brand.
 
Last edited:
$190?!?!?

The local oreilly will do it for $20 an axle.
 
ENGINE er said:
$190?!?!?

The local oreilly will do it for $20 an axle.
Click to expand...

I never go with the cheapest.

LandCruiserPhil said:
Glad you found your problem:clap:Did you ever check to see if your spindle bearings did get greased from the previous work?
Click to expand...

Not yet, but its definitely on the list of things to double check just to be safe. Also, I haven't tested the LC with a load and in the twisty turns of the North GA mtns. Will do that this weekend as that's where the problem was the most noticeable.
 
Can O'Reilly turn them on the truck? I'm betting that is what he paid for. I know the local Toyota shop will turn them on the truck and install new pads for $225. My OE rotors are pulsating. Already did the garnet paper trick, and pulsation is back. Bummed.
 
GaFJC said:
Joy oh joy. While in the process of chasing down my vibration issues my mech discovered that my new PowerStop rotors were slightly distorted. Apparently 10 to 15% of all rotors come out of the box slightly imperfect.
Click to expand...

Exactly how did he determine this? Was the run-out out of spec? Is it possible that the mating surfaces were not 100% clean when they were bolted on and now he has "trued" them to the wheel hub?

Also, how does this gel with the fact that you mentioned it did not do it before he bumper and suspension install.

I don't see how a distorted rotor is going to cause the vibrations you mentioned in the other thread. If it was that bad, would you not have felt a brake pulsation when you applied the brakes? Also, it if was not true, would the vibration not have been there right after the rotors were done?

Just wondering here. Was there any discoloration on the rotors? Are your calipers releasing properly?

What CV axles are you running?
 
Last edited:
sleeoffroad said:
Exactly how did he determine this? Was the run-out out of spec? Is it possible that the mating surfaces were not 100% clean when they were bolted on and now he has "trued" them to the wheel hub?

Also, how does this gel with the fact that you mentioned it did not do it before he bumper and suspension install.

I don't see how a distorted rotor is going to cause the vibrations you mentioned in the other thread. If it was that bad, would you not have felt a brake pulsation when you applied the brakes? Also, it if was not true, would the vibration not have been there right after the rotors were done?

Just wondering here. Was there any discoloration on the rotors? Are your calipers releasing properly?

What CV axles are you running?
Click to expand...


How did he determine it? Test driving, measuring with appropriate tools, etc. Rotors were turned on vehicle, not disassembled.

I've used this mech for ten years with four diff vehicles. While anyone can have a bad day and make mistakes I've never had issues with them, ever.

It does but doesn't gel. I now think it may have been a different problem. As mentioned previously, I won't know for 100% that the prob I experienced before is resolved until I test under the same conditions; under load, terrain/incline, etc. I would agree, the other vibration was almost violent at times so unlike a rotor.

That said I was also feeling an odd sensation when banking. Not a pulsation per se. I don't know if the rotors were discolored. No problems with calipers releasing.

I've also lowered the torsion bars as per sound advice from Spresso. Thought was that 9 out of 10 100 series don't have problems with pinion angles when "lifted". Mine, like Spresso's, may be the 1 out of 10 that do.

CV's are Oem with roughly 5 or 6k on them.

What I think may have happened is the added weight along with the t bars being tweak may have shined a light on items that weren't an issue with the stock set up.

This issue wouldn't stop me from buying PowerStop again and will do the rears with them when budget allows. Will have them check for "true" before they're installed though as well as any rotors installed on my wife's Volvo.

Again I believe I have it misfortune of having two problems. Will road test extensively this weekend.
 
Are you sure on the CV's. I recall a discussion on cost of CV axles / reboot and you mentioned yours was aftermarket. The reason I ask is that we have experienced vibrations that are related to non oe cv axles.

Did you ever in the testing drop the front drive shaft, remove the drive flanges, lock the center diff and do a test drive? That will add some data as to if the vibration is related to the driveline turning components or something else.
 
GaFJC said:
This issue wouldn't stop me from buying PowerStop again and will do the rears with them when budget allows. Will have them check for "true" before they're installed though as well as any rotors installed on my wife's Volvo.
Click to expand...

the reason I am a little skeptical on this is because we sell a lot of these rotors and also install them in the shop and have never seen a vibration issue that can be traced to rotors. Other pulsation etc etc, but those are normally associated with braking. Never seen a properly installed rotor cause any vibration issues during acceleration.

One other issue, have you ever greased your front drive shaft splines until the drive shaft expands slightly? If so I would recommend you disconnect one side, remove the grease zirc for the splines and push the grease out. We have also seen that method of greasing cause pinion bearing failures on the 100 due to hydraulic pressure exerted by the drive shaft.
 
I'm sceptical of the "new rotors out of true" story also. Rotors are consumables in racing. While most guys use good quality OE or similar, there are some who go the cheap Chinese route. I've never heard of nor seen a case of new rotor runout.

Like others on this thread I call bogus on your shop's story about the rotors, with one possible exception:
- If you have driven the car hard with lots of heavy braking and then washed it down while the rotors were still hot then there a good chance you've warped them. Cold water on one side of a hot rotor = warping.
 
Last edited:
sleeoffroad said:
the reason I am a little skeptical on this is because we sell a lot of these rotors and also install them in the shop and have never seen a vibration issue that can be traced to rotors. Other pulsation etc etc, but those are normally associated with braking. Never seen a properly installed rotor cause any vibration issues during acceleration.
Click to expand...

APKhaos said:
I'm sceptical of the "new rotors out of true" story also. Rotors are consumables in racing. While most guys use good quality OE or similar, there are some who go the cheap Chinese route. I've never heard of nor seen a case of new rotor runout.

Like others on this thread I call bogus on your shop's story about the rotors, with one possible exception:
- If you have driven the car hard with lots of heavy braking and then washed it down while the rotors were still hot then there a good chance you've warped them. Cold water on one side of a hot rotor = warping.
Click to expand...

No, the vehicle was never wheeled hard and I'm not a hard braker.

Again, I believe I had the misfortune of chasing two problems at the same time: steering wheel oscillation/shimmy present most of the time and a sometime hard, almost violent vibration under hard acceleration on an incline and w/truck loaded. Probably unlikely the new bumper and t bar adjustment caused both. Likely just bad luck and coincidence.

The good news: today I did the exact 190 mile loop where I discovered the vibration (and or other issues) and I believe it's resolved as I experienced no problems whatsoever. Ultimately I do believe I had two problems - out of true rotors (caused the wheel oscillation) and possible pinion angles issues (resolved by lowering the t bars - THANKS for the help via pm Spresso). I also know that the t bars issue may have been a sign of some other part being worn and or beyond its serviceable life and lowering the tbars just bought me more time. Who knows? With my OCD I'll reserve 100% judgement until I do the trip a few more times. Today's trip with kids/gear/dog was uneventful thanks to no issues of any kind. I actually enjoyed driving my 100 today.

Christo makes some very good points though regarding installation (and the front drive shaft). Points I'll definitely keep in mind when doing the rears and double checking front drive shaft service.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Did you ever in the testing drop the front drive shaft, remove the drive flanges, lock the center diff and do a test drive? That will add some data as to if the vibration is related to the driveline turning components or something else.
Click to expand...

Thanks Christo.

Yes, my CVs are aftermarket, not OEM. Sorry for the typo it was a long week.

Your above suggestion is a very good idea if the bad vibration returns. Another way of isolating the parts in the front end.
 
GaFJC said:
Ultimately I do believe I had two problems - out of true rotors (caused the wheel oscillation) and possible pinion angles issues (resolved by lowering the t bars - THANKS for the help via pm Spresso).
Click to expand...

Adjusting the torsion bars does nothing for pinion angle on the front. The diff is hard mounted. The only time it changes is with a diff drop.

I also know that the t bars issue may have been a sign of some other part being worn and or beyond its serviceable life and lowering the tbars just bought me more time. Who knows?
Click to expand...

Adjusting the height of the vehicle can have an effect on CV axles and their angle. So if changing the height has a noticeable effect I would look at the CV axles first.
 
that price was for taking the rotors off and taking it to them. Turning rotors is not rocket science and i have used oreilly's machines for everything from my land cruiser to my race cars. Just give them a thickness to take it to and its hard to ef up.
 
montanacruiser161 said:
Not to hijack your thread but has anyone tired the DBA Rotors offered by ManAFre? They look nice and I will be in need of some new rotors sometime this summer.

DBA LONG LIFE GOLD CROSS SLOTTED and SLOTTED BRAKE ROTORS
Click to expand...

I have them all the way around and somehow found a way to warp at least one of the fronts. Haven't pulled them off yet to have them turned. The issue I have only comes up when the rotors are hot.

Historically, I had all new rotors turned before I installed them with no issues. Wouldn't you know the first time I don't do that I end up with warping... :bang:

My fault? Slightly 'off' rotors? No clue.

I will say, warped or not, they stop the beast like it were a race car...
 
I just traced a brake pulse to a greasy rotor due I think to sloppy hub/brake service by sellers mechanic. I'm not curious enough to clean the rotors and replace the pads when I have all new on hand and am doing hubs anyway but loading and heat could impact a greasing issue. My pulse was weird in that it seemed to go away on longer trips and was more present on the local trips due I think to utilization temporarily burning out the grease. Don't know how common my experience is here but the inboard pad had grease on an edge and shows some cracking. Again probably some low grade parts from the sellers mechanic combined with sloppy work but could be a cause.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Adjusting the torsion bars does nothing for pinion angle on the front. The diff is hard mounted. The only time it changes is with a diff drop.

Adjusting the height of the vehicle can have an effect on CV axles and their angle. So if changing the height has a noticeable effect I would look at the CV axles first.
Click to expand...

I wish I lived close enough to your shop to be able to drop it off and have you and your folks diagnosed it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom