GX 460 Blitz rock sliders (2 Viewers)

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We did respond to that video but for some reason, our reply is hidden in the comments? Weird. If anyone has any questions or concerns about this or any of our products, please don't hesitate to ask.

Anyway, here is our reply in the video comments. Certainly looks like some of the video creator's issues are our fault, and we will certainly do what we can to make it right.
We aren't sure if you have had a conversation with our tech support team or not, but we'd love to have them chat with you directly to assist instead of helping over YouTube comments, but for the benefit of your subscribers, we will reply here as well.

First, we make products in America. Not China. We build and coat everything in-house in our Portage, Michigan facility.

On to your list:


1 - Four brackets came bent right out the box (no box damage)
Likely bent from heat from the top weld on the mount. Engineering is talking to fab about it, we apologize you had to deal with this.

2 - Slider cannot be centered front to back without sticking out more/less "in and out" from vehicle
Message our tech support team, please. They will ask for some measurements and we can figure out what is up with the parallel to the body issue. To be clear, there is enough adjustability to move the siders fore and aft to center them between the wheels, but we understand what you are talking about with the spacing from the body panels. Tech support can figure out what's up.


3 - The button-head bolts that attach the sliders to the outboard brackets have no clearance and require hours of time to install confidently due to allen-head on all bolts
We use button heads so you don't see the hardware from the top once installed. We do understand that they can be a pain on the install, but as you only do that part once and you see the top of the sliders nearly every day, we chose the sleeker-looking button heads. We can make this clearer in the install docs and give the option of the customer spec'ing hex head if they'd rather not deal with it.

4 - Three holes on the slider-to-frame bracket line up with holes on the vehicle that are too big for the included-self tapping bolts. You will need to drill and tap these yourself.
These holes aren't used in this application. We don't mention them in the install document or video, but we certainly can be more clear about it so there is less confusion. The only holes you should be drilling and running the self-threading bolts into are the three on the passenger side that mirror the 3 nut inserts for the gas tank on the driver side.

5 - The included KDSS skid/plate is simply all wrong. It misses the car's frame on one ear of the bracket by an inch. The design doesn't actually protect the KDSS lines the way the factory plate does. Large 'exposed' area with this new KDSS plate.
That bracket looks to be bent wrong. Our tech support team can help get that handled if so.

Honorable mention: There is a 5 pound bag of 'random hardware' leftover from the install.
We use the same hardware pack on multiple models of sliders. It makes it easier for us to keep hardware packs stocked. The install document and video should cover the hardware used on the specific install, but if something isn't clear on those please let us know.

We apologize for the issues on this install and will happily do whatever we can to make the issues right.
 
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As for the hardware, first, in the video above, am I seeing it correctly that the sliders bolt into the face of the frame as well as the bottom? The bottom of the frame is a horrible place to bolt them as you will shear the heads off the bolts if you drag it over rocks. And can you even get grade 10 bolts that are button heads? 🤷‍♂️ Those bolts are the dumbest thing I’ve seen. I can’t imagine getting an Allen head wrench into some of the bolt locations

Without drilling a ton or welding the sliders on we don't really have much of a choice but to use the bottom bolt holes. We use a wrap-under design on our frame plates to get maximum strength from the mounts. They are just like skid bolts, if they get chewed up they are easily replaced. We've never sheered a bolt head off on a rock, but we've certainly mangled some.

Steel button heads are 120,000 psi strength. More than enough for this application. We use button heads in this location because with the door open you can just see the top bolts from the driver seat, and they look better. If a customer would rather the install be easier we can certainly provide specs for hex bolts for this location.
 
Can the factory KDSS skid not be modified to fit? I installed my SSO sliders and had to cut off about 1/2” of metal from the top and it fits perfectly.

As for the hardware, first, in the video above, am I seeing it correctly that the sliders bolt into the face of the frame as well as the bottom? The bottom of the frame is a horrible place to bolt them as you will shear the heads off the bolts if you drag it over rocks. And can you even get grade 10 bolts that are button heads? 🤷‍♂️ Those bolts are the dumbest thing I’ve seen. I can’t imagine getting an Allen head wrench into some of the bolt locations.

As for the China issue, just because they have a 6 week lead time doesn’t mean anything. I don’t know if their products are made in China or not but you can’t conclude that based on that one fact.

I have no love for victory or their products for several reasons. The bolts alone would have made me pack that s*** up and send it back.
Installed photos and instructions coming soon👍

Had anyone used these yet? I have other sliders, though I like the look of the Victory ones. I was under the truck today tidying up the OEM KDSS skid cut that I made to install my sliders(I originally cut too little and it was rubbing the frame), and noticed decent gouge on the outside corner. I see the Victory one only looks like it has bottom protection, but no wrap around vertical side?
20220305_082750.jpg
 
it looks like victory initially released a skid that did not offer adequate protection. The second version seems better but still requiring some user modifications. Check out the GX460 OFF-ROAD YouTube video showing both.
 
Any idea how much clearance you've gained from the stock steps?
Love the way they look, but appear to be a little bulkier compared to most of the options on the market. Is that just a visual thing, or are you sacrificing some clearance using these compared to sliders from other companies like cbi, or westcott?
 
I'll add a little of my experience with the Victory Sliders.

Love the look and they look like something that would come OEM. Mine were just about the perfect length. They don't protrude in to the wheel well but they do get to it. I am not planning on going over 33" tires so no issues for me. Most of the holes were as described but some required a little extra adjustment to get them started. The button bolts are stupid and I would probably just use my own bolts instead if I had it to do over again. The top ones were hard to get to and I don't think I got them as tight as I would want.

QZ38j6C.jpg



The lights are really nice and bright.

They have drastically improved the KDSS skid since that video was posted. There is still a small gap on the front (maybe 1/4-1/2") but once you drill the holes for the self tapping bolts, it pulls the plate to the frame and sits nicely. Here is what the old ones look like:

VWf6zYw.png


The new one give much better coverage.
Here is the new one:
fpePwme.jpg


These skids are also very wide so good protection from door dings and a wide step. I had already trimmed my side steps so here is what the slider step looks like without the sliders and with.

Before:
emS12Br.jpg


After:
pUJLuGd.jpg
 

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