Griffin Radiators issues

[dr_dobro]

Well, took it for a spin to the market, and when parked saw coolant draining out. Opened the hood, and leak was right where the top (oil cooler) fitting is.
Took it home and removed the brass nut that holds the fitting and notice how the RED rubber gasket was pressed out through the aluminum wall and brass fitting. I proceeded on removing the Red gasket from top and it was broken all the way around.

Does anyone out there had this type of issue?,
Can wait to het ahold of the company on Monday , but doubt they'll refund me since bought it 7 months ago and policy states 30 days from time of purchase.

I was lloking forward to make a third wheeling trip, before it gets too cold, but I guess will wait until next year

 

[chicago]

Don't like to hear this.
Got any pics???

 

[dr_dobro]

I should have went with Davis Radiators, but wanted to save some bucks.

Here are 2 pictures. I'm asuming that gasket had like a funnel shape at the closest gasket diameter, but couldn't tell, because the piece was gone and probably floating inside of my radiator.

In my opinion, I don't think that design is efficient, when there's a lot of movement when wheeling, or jumping over a rock, they might work well on hot rods, but will see what the company says and take it from there.

If I decide to go with another radiator, I'll probably have to toss my rad support, and more hours to fabricate one. I hated that part of the build, really frustating thing.

daniel

 

[Elbert]

I feel your pain...but before you shell out some $$ on the RD radiator you probally should look around on the forum. I have one in my 60 for about a 1.5 years, My rig is not hard core ....the core starting leaking at the bottom drivers side (not the tank but the core). no fix that I knwo of.

I installed the radiator with all the recomended insulators etc.... my V-8 is for all purposes a stock 5.7 V-8. Never crashed, rolled or hit anything with the core support or limbs or anything.

I'm running a 4 core brass type replacement radiator which seems to do a good job. Not good to pay out big bucks and then have the radiaotr core leaking. I've read where a few others had similar experience. I theink the RD is a nice looking radiator but its way too much money to only last a year and half.

 

[chicago]

I feel your pain...but before you shell out some $$ on the RD radiator you probally should look around on the forum. I have one in my 60 for about a 1.5 years, My rig is not hard core ....the core starting leaking at the bottom drivers side (not the tank but the core). no fix that I knwo of.

I installed the radiator with all the recomended insulators etc.... my V-8 is for all purposes a stock 5.7 V-8. Never crashed, rolled or hit anything with the core support or limbs or anything.

I'm running a 4 core brass type replacement radiator which seems to do a good job. Not good to pay out big bucks and then have the radiaotr core leaking. I've read where a few others had similar experience. I theink the RD is a nice looking radiator but its way too much money to only last a year and half.

Unfortunately, I have read the same re. the Al. radiators in general. I too have a griffen in mine (not running yet), and am a bit concerned about it. Some folks say that its something to do with ....electrolysis???? That if you put a zinc electrode in the tank, it will help with this phenomenon???
If this fails quickly, Ill be looking into the brass core rad as they dont seem to have the same issues.

 

[Huroneymoose]

I fabbed a flexalite one into my 40 and it was tore apart. Leaked where the cores were attached to the tank. There is a lot of info and guys on this site and the net regarding aluminum rads. I started a thread a while back. I have installed a Be-Cool rad in my 40 now. I re fabbed the mounts with the help of a good friend and eliminated any flexing or tension on the rad. I have also added a sacrificial anode into my coolant system.

 

[LittleMan]

Griffin Rad

Dobro have you talked to Griffin yet?

Chicago, a little somethin that May save you some time and trouble. You could cap the in/out (or loop a hose) on your new rad & pressure test it before you're ready to fill it & fire. I just helped a buddy put a SBC in a '41 Studebaker, and when we filled the new custom Griffin Radiator before initial start the water ran straight thru it - core wasn't bonded at the bottom. Sucked AND cost him a couple weeks, but Griffin paid shipping x2 & fixed it. Keep in mind though, this is just 1 bad experience out of Several good ones with Griffin stuff.

 

[Elbert]

I did add a specific ground wire from the truck to the radiator on my RD setup that I previously had.

 

[chicago]

Dobro have you talked to Griffin yet?

Chicago, a little somethin that May save you some time and trouble. You could cap the in/out (or loop a hose) on your new rad & pressure test it before you're ready to fill it & fire. I just helped a buddy put a SBC in a '41 Studebaker, and when we filled the new custom Griffin Radiator before initial start the water ran straight thru it - core wasn't bonded at the bottom. Sucked AND cost him a couple weeks, but Griffin paid shipping x2 & fixed it. Keep in mind though, this is just 1 bad experience out of Several good ones with Griffin stuff.

I don't have the trans cooler lines like dobo does, so that is one less point of failure to be concerned with. Considering the in flexibility of Al. I rubber isolated the rad. All around, and kept the rad. Sort of loose in it's mount in attempts to minimize cracking and fatigue.

Well see how it goes. Hopefully I'll have many years of happy wheeling with it.

I'm curious to hear what griffen says about the situation here w/ dobo's rad. And what they'll do about it.

 

[dr_dobro]

Well, spoke a tech rep atGriffin's this am. Obviously, the radiator is close 11 months old, and never submitted the warranty label registration (in ever do anyways).

Theperson was very helpfull,as I described my problem. He said for the gasket that surrounds the brass fitting for the oil cooler, could use the DIY gasket material, that is what they use on their shop, he claimed.

Anyhow he was kind enough to send me the rubber gasket and copper locking nut for free.

Probably what happen at the assembly was that the rubber was too close to hole in the core and it was rubbing with the slight movement of the truck and eventually broke.

I'm running my PS trough the cooler, but it will suck big time if this thing happens in the trail or worse when driving far distances from home. It is a pain the neck to replace them, since you need to remove hoses, drain fluids, and change this gasket. I don't even know how to change the bottom one, at least for the top, I can open the cap and sort of look trough it, but again just for the top. And I assume that this oil cooler was inserted before welding the top core of the radiator. There's no way to remove it without cutting it.

My goal is to shake this truck in every possible way so I can attend the 2013 rubithon, but I'm not thrilled about having cooling issues in the future.

As for the electrolysis, I have used a chemical that balances it trough the radiator motor, can't remember the name of it, but will look it up on the summit receipts.

I hope this helps out somehow to all

Daniel

 

[fj40charles]

I've never had any issues with my Griffin radiator. Had it over 15 years. I don't have a transmission cooler in mine.

 

[Elbert]

on another brand ....BE Cool

I had a BE- Cool radiatior in a 92 K1500 for 2 years or more (then I sold it) and its still going without issue some 2+ years and the new owners use that thing as a farm truck and its not treated easy and is in 4wheel drive almost every day and pulling and all kind of stuff. Typical GM mounts...two large u shaped insulators on the bottom of the radiator and two large ones on the top, and there is a top mounts that presses down on the radiator thats right off the radiator support.

I think be-cool makes some radiators for the older LC's... I've never heard any comments or noticed anyone running any be-cool stuff here on teh forum (they may but I've not seen it posted.

Also one of the guys in my CL club runs a Griffin I think and he apparently has had good service.

 

[pdoecati]

griffin radiator problem??

5 months ago, the radiator in my '81 chevy 2wd, 250 inline 6 pick up, sprung a leak. i decided to think outside the box and install the best i could afford. griffin is what my research turned up, so i call them up directly and talked to a person and told him of my plans. i was sold on the idea of electric fan(s) and getting the factory fan off the water pump. i was assured that the suggested new unit would be a direct bolt in and was capable of 800 hp, wow, my 250 straight 6 makes all of 155 on a good day. i decided to play it safe and ordered a set of top mount clamps from LMC truck because usually direct fit means you need something, so plan ahead. the first griffin came and I installed it with a friend, thank god i bought those extra bracket, we had to fab the stock ones and the new ones to fit the thick top of the new radiator. it went in with out many issues, along with new hoses, and thermostat and i thought problem solved. 3 weeks after the install, i noticed a dribble from the bottom of the new griffin, i kept a close eye on it and it kept getting a little bigger. i called griffin and talked to the original salesperson and he had not seen a failure of any nature in a while, but he would get back to me.he did the next day and said they would send me a new unit, less the fans and shroud and i could ship the first one back in the replacement box. number two went in with out a problem, 3 1/2 gallons of 50/50 peak antifreeze, and i was back on the road. 5 weeks later, the leaks started again, only this time it did not start with a dribble but rather a steady stream. i called the same salesman again and he was at a total loss of the problem. it took 2 weeks to get number three so this time i replaced the water pump, installed a new alternator, 85 amps, and got 4 new gallons of peak coolant. i had, at the time of thefirst install, replaced the transmission lines with stainless ones from summit, and a new heater core. third time is a charm usually,but, alas, two days ago, i came outside after a short drive and parked in the lot of a local mall, and found a puddle under my truck and the radiator empty. my truck has 155 horsepower, new water pump, new heater core, new 180 degree thermostat and all new hoses. if any one has any ideas or has seen similar issues, please point me in the right direction. i have put a total of 1486 miles on all 3 radiators combined along with 12 gallons of antifreeze. i do not want to become an expert on this installation. thanks.

 

[spotcruiser]

Do you have electrical devices mounted on the radiator supports (fans, horns, etc)? If so, are they electrically isolated from the radiator or is it possible that current from the electrical devices is passing to vehicle ground through the radiator? Passing direct current through aluminum in an electrolyte (coolant) will eat the aluminum away is short order.

This has been discussed a lot over the years. In most cases, people are talking about galvanic corrosion just due to the proximity of dissimilar metals. However, when you pass current through dissimilar metals in an electrolyte the damage is mulitplied many times over and it occurs very quickly. I've seen the results of poor bonding (grounding) of electrical equipment on ships and boats. The damage to shafts and props can be severe and even structural framing can be severely damaged under certain conditions.