Gassiper,
How did you make out on the install?
How did you make out on the install?
Got bored and ordered a new amp, speakers and “sub”
- Thread starter Gassiper
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- #22
Still workin on it. As usual when you work on your own stuff, someone else’s bumps yours out of the way. I’ll post a shirt write up once I’m done
Do a refoam on the blown speaker and it will be as good as new. Cheap and easy. There is no doubt you can build a much better system, but if you plan to keep the ML amp, just refoam the ML speakers since they are designed to work together.
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- #24
Didn’t schedule anything so we got it done real quick. It sounds great! The new Memphis 6.5s absolutely slam! The amp fit perfectly in the factory location. Even got the tweeters in the factory spot with a little bit of persuasion. The only “modification” we had to do was throw a single washer under each seat mount location to elevate it just a tad. Still have another couple of weeks before the 6.5 inch MOJO is back in stock so I don’t exactly have a full range at the moment with no sub, but it’s as crisp and clear as you’d ever want to hear music played. We looked again today and we’re not so certain how we’re going to make the MOJO fit in the factory spot. If we can’t make it fit and look totally factory, I may end up doing an enclosure where the factory jack is with an 8, but we’ll see in a couple weeks.
***All if the factory equipment is listed in the classifieds if anyone is interested
***All if the factory equipment is listed in the classifieds if anyone is interested
It’s cheaper to make wood rings
I'm not interested in rings as much as a closed and sealed space to put my speaker in.
You then cut a ring of dynamat and/or closed cell foam (yoga mat) the same size as the rings. u put that between the wood rings and it’s sealed once you bolt back in. I wouldn’t steer folks wrong on this one. You’re out 5$ in wood, 10$ or less in a gym mat, and a couple sets of dynamat from Amazon. you can put the extra inside your door.
I have a ring of dynamat around the speaker and one behind it, along with bunch of dynamat "tiles" all over the outer and inner door skins. It's better, but I'm told a layer of closed foam is needed between the door metal and door card to insulate and decouple.
I just thought having them in a factory provided box would be the easier route.
If you don’t have rings to simulate that plastic bracket you should do that stat. The factory plastics is Easier. but if you’re running aftermarket with deeper and bigger magnet drivers, the wood ring solution is pretty good. I know I threw away my factory speakers but I’ll check when I get home if I have my factory rings and if I do I’ll gladly send em to you for the nominal fee of shipping. I have and lc and would assume door layout is the same
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- #32
Still waiting on the Mojo to come in. My Memphis rep though said he had the sub I needed in his car and would try and get by the shop in the next couple days. Possibly could have something done by the weekend but we’ll see how that goes.
What is the model number of the amp!
Looks great
Looks great
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- #34
Ok...so the sub finally made it in. Got the rear panel pulled off. It’s deeper than I thought it was going to be. Looks like it’s time for fiberglass. But in the mean time I made a ported box just to have something in there. HOLY S%!* does it sound amazing!!! We all laughed after I plugged it up. It honestly sounds like at least an 8. Super clear. No distortion when turned up way louder than I’d ever listen to it. Dabbling with the idea of adding a second one. I pulled out the factory jack, the mount for it and the factory sub box. With all of that out of the way, I think I can work the fiberglass back far enough and it may actually be enough airspace. A sealed box for a single is only .5 of a cube. I’ll start working on the enclosure once it’s slowed down again. Wether I end up with 1 or 2 I think it'll be easiest to mount them where the factory jack was. All in all I couldn’t be happier with it.
I want one now! 
Can you post pic of the box you are using. My full system will be installed in 2 weeks and have not decided on a final sub yet.
Can you post pic of the box you are using. My full system will be installed in 2 weeks and have not decided on a final sub yet.
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I want one now!
This sub makes little sense unless your going to try the factory locations and even then its gonna take a ton of reinforcement for that weight and additional internal air requirements for a sub that size. If you’re not using factory location you can build a small tline or ported enclosure (over the wheel well) for a big magnet 8 or a smaller magnet 10 sub and get far greater output for less money.
American bass vfl 8 or tnt 10 are both budget performers that would allow this.
This is one of the few times on this forum when someone on is saying jump down this hole when you really shouldn’t.
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- #38
Nah man. Not worried about it. We’ve got a great group of guys that have tackled some way more difficult boxes than this one. Somebody has to be the first to use a sub this deep in the factory location. Might as well be me since I’m this far into it.
To clarify, you seem like a major audio enthusiast so I have nothing but faith that you will execute this well. Thing is i think guys here are typically looking for easy best practices and 99.9% of the guys reading this won’t be able to get this executed at the same cost.
What would be cool is to use the stock sub cavity cut a bigger hole, enabling the ability ton push/secure a fiberglass enclosure into that cavity and minimizing the additional space needed to just the wheel well. Then it really wouldn’t matter what diameter subyou used (within reason). Basically like a JL stealth enclosure
What would be cool is to use the stock sub cavity cut a bigger hole, enabling the ability ton push/secure a fiberglass enclosure into that cavity and minimizing the additional space needed to just the wheel well. Then it really wouldn’t matter what diameter subyou used (within reason). Basically like a JL stealth enclosure
