writing to introduce myself--new owner of 364k 2000 Lexus LX470, based out of Winston. I was a member of the club back in the mid 90s when I had a cherry FJ40 with 65k on the clock, and now back in the world of Japanese truck ownership, after spending far too much time with German cars. Purchased it from owner of a Toyota service place in Chattanooga, TN right after Christmas, drove out there with one way rental after and drove the beast back to NC. It is a solid unit, and trying to maintain it for much longer. I know a little, but just enough to get me in trouble. I flushed the AHC fluid, pulled off the roof rack and the side step things (forgetting name), did assessment on Toyota tech stream, consulted with another guy on ih8mud from Texas who has some original AHC parts, and he said basically I should just crank the torsion bars a bit (he had very specific instructions) and go from there. Suspension was loose on way back from Tennessee, and has since gotten way too stiff. feel little bumps in the road. thinking torsion bar adjustment, maybe need front shocks or rear springs, hopefully not globes. There is definitely a left manifold exhaust leak, so I have contemplated getting some JBL headers and putting those on. Lots of maintenance history, engine does not burn oil, and here I am. If there are any other 100 series owners close I would love to consult or do the HAMOM thing and get some advice on basic maintenance thoughts going forward, as it has been a while since I have turned a wrench without watching you tube prior. Any feedback appreciated, thanks very much!
Getting back in the game--requests for advice/help
- Thread starter BenzilDawg
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RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
If the ride has gotten harsh, you likely have globe failure.
Set it in low. Note which line your AHC fluid is at. Cycle the AHC from low to high. Note the line your fluid is at now and count the difference. I THINK 7 was min acceptable, but that’s way low.
If you do need globes, Pleiades in the UK sells modded Citroen globes for less that 50% the cost of Lexus- I’ve had good luck with mine so far.
If you’re already set up for Tech Stream, don’t just crank to Tbars. Hook up and verify your spring pressures and adjust to bring them into spec.
If you need more specifics, the 100 series tech section is loaded with AHC question and answer threads.
Set it in low. Note which line your AHC fluid is at. Cycle the AHC from low to high. Note the line your fluid is at now and count the difference. I THINK 7 was min acceptable, but that’s way low.
If you do need globes, Pleiades in the UK sells modded Citroen globes for less that 50% the cost of Lexus- I’ve had good luck with mine so far.
If you’re already set up for Tech Stream, don’t just crank to Tbars. Hook up and verify your spring pressures and adjust to bring them into spec.
If you need more specifics, the 100 series tech section is loaded with AHC question and answer threads.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thank you--hoping it is not the globes but may be. I am kind of floundering around on tech stream--is there any quick tutorial online or primer of sorts? I am trying to delete some old codes and dont know how. have read some instructions on ih8mud but not sure if I am using correctly. I have not yet input VIN. also am not using the functionality related to the Internet connection that takes you to the website. anyway, thanks again for feedback!
Time to just remove the AHC and go with a coil system! 
lumbee1
Native American
Hey Howard! welcome to the club! There's a TON of knowledge and experience here that will get you on the right path.
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
No!Time to just remove the AHC and go with a coil system!
If properly cared for I'd stick with the AHC.... only downside is it cant take the added weight armor on the rig constantly so it wears out faster and faster with added weight. If I had a LX I'd put 33 mtrs on it, lockers and keep it as is. Capable and comfortable.
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
...but you can, go with up rated springs and torsion bars to minimize the load on the system.
- Thread starter
- #9
thanks for all of the thoughts. just cranked the torsion bars a couple times on each side so will see what that does tomorrow. what sort of up rated springs have you had luck with? thx again!
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
I’m just running stock with some turns on the T-bars and some spring packers in the back, but I’m not that heavy right now.
If you want to keep the AHC, but you’re looking to do bumpers, sliders, winch, skids, etc., etc. then the Landcruiser springs and t-bars are a good place to start. Since most came w/o the AHC, all the load was on those components, so they have correspondingly higher spring rates.
Again, AHC, Tech Stream, spring selection has been beaten to death in the 100 series tech section.
If you want to keep the AHC, but you’re looking to do bumpers, sliders, winch, skids, etc., etc. then the Landcruiser springs and t-bars are a good place to start. Since most came w/o the AHC, all the load was on those components, so they have correspondingly higher spring rates.
Again, AHC, Tech Stream, spring selection has been beaten to death in the 100 series tech section.
Welcome, eliminating the AHC was one of the better mods I did when I had a 100. I could be wrong but On Techstream, when I entered my vin it seemed like it opened up some of the features on the LX470 and gave control over them vs things the 100 with the sombrero didnt have . Auto adjust steering wheel for example.
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
@NC LX why do you feel the elimination was a plus? I see this from time to time, but haven’t been able to come up with any good reasons.
I specifically kept mine, because any lifts cost as much as new globes. It’s way less work to replace the globes than delete the AHC. I can fit 33”s with AHC. I maintain variable damping, super comfy street ride, and 2-1/2” lift if I need it off road. The truck auto levels when loaded, and the stability and traction control are designed integrally with the system.
Unless going bigger than 33”, I don’t see the pluses. Not looking to argue, genuinely curious why you prefer it.
I specifically kept mine, because any lifts cost as much as new globes. It’s way less work to replace the globes than delete the AHC. I can fit 33”s with AHC. I maintain variable damping, super comfy street ride, and 2-1/2” lift if I need it off road. The truck auto levels when loaded, and the stability and traction control are designed integrally with the system.
Unless going bigger than 33”, I don’t see the pluses. Not looking to argue, genuinely curious why you prefer it.
- Thread starter
- #13
thanks again for all the input--good stuff!
A-nnoying
H-ippo
C-haser
H-ippo
C-haser
^^I'll bring it down a notch, sorry.
- Thread starter
- #16
still playing around with AHC, rides better already, may give bars a couple more turns and call it a day with some replacement rear springs (for some reason having trouble getting Techstream to read the AHC now), and continue to think about the globes. I guess without taking them off there is not way to determine if they are bad (besides looking at how much fluid is used in the Hi/low transfer process in the reservoir).. Couple unrelated questions (1) does anyone have opinions on o2 sensor eliminators and whether they are suggested when putting on aftermarket headers? (2) when poking around underneath the truck I noticed a lot of fluid around what seems to be the boot on the steering rack, some sort of horizontal rod in front of the front axle, please see pics attached. when driving it seems to steer just like it is supposed to, wondering what is causing all of this leakage and how quickly I should fix? thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #17
hmm. to complicate matters, truck would not start upon leaving the office. power comes on, dash lights etc. but does not crank. tried to jump with a battery source and no luck. guess I will start with the starter relay (I think it is clicking but I cannot tell without getting someone to turn key so I can listen), then begin to suspect either starter solenoid, starter motor, or ignition switch. yikes.
probably starter, you can just reach it with a long extension from the pass side top of the engine. Its under the intake, put the extension on it and hit with a hammer while someone is holding the key in the start position. If you don't like to abuse your tools like that any kind of 18-20" long bar will work.
lumbee1
Native American
Did you get it started?
- Thread starter
- #20
hey, thanks much. so I did get it started today, ordered a starter relay last night and guess will but in for good measure (will be here tomorrow), drove by advance to test the alternator, all good, spraying some electrical cleaner spray in fuse box for good measure and replacing fuses. Looks like the culprit was a 140 amp fuse that blew, related to the alternator. was the strangest thing, had some guy listening for the starter click today, watching the headlights to see if they dimmed, he asked me if I could hear the radio which was not on, turned it on, then the car cranked. weird. 140 amp fuse beside battery was definitely blown yesterday tho, wondering if I should get a starter to have on hand for good measure.. thanks again
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