I've got a ~150k 100 that spent some time up north. It's got some rust on the undercarriage and in some spots deep in the engine bay, though every mechanic who's looked at it has called it pretty unremarkable surface rust. Is there a good treatment option that will help prevent this from getting worse (and that is available in a non-rusty part of the country)?
Getting ahead of rust
- Thread starter Herdershond
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You can wire brush, scrub pad, grinder with flap disc on the exposed areas and then wipe off dust. I like Ospho (phosphoric acid) straight as a neutralizer; but most rust reforming agents; including rust reform primer, contain phosphoric acid as well and do a decent job. You brush on the Ospho (with a tarp underneath you as it also likes to react with concrete) and let it do its thing interacting with the iron oxide. Then wipe or wash off with a hose and when nice and dry throw on paint.
I have had success on frames with many types of paint but my favorite two are POR-15 (most expensive and requires good prep work - rock hard), or farm implement paint (takes a very long time to cure without hardener mixed in, but chemically cures and is tough as nails.) I prefer farm implement paint due to cost, UV and chemical resistance, ease of application (roller, paint brush), it self levels if you put it on thick, color options, and its ability to be recoated with a light scuff of the base layer. I have done multiple boat trailers, two truck's chassis, utility trailer, and my land cruiser's rear bumper, in farm implement paint.
I really like both the Majic and Rustoleum brands. I use the red oxide farm implement primer on trailers on very roughly sanded bare metal. I use the standard grey farm implement primer on auto applications for no reason other than I haven't heard to use anything different.
My boat trailer gets the worst of it; sitting in direct high altitude Colorado sun all summer and getting dipped in the water about 50 times a year. No sign of any change to the paint after 3 years.
I have had success on frames with many types of paint but my favorite two are POR-15 (most expensive and requires good prep work - rock hard), or farm implement paint (takes a very long time to cure without hardener mixed in, but chemically cures and is tough as nails.) I prefer farm implement paint due to cost, UV and chemical resistance, ease of application (roller, paint brush), it self levels if you put it on thick, color options, and its ability to be recoated with a light scuff of the base layer. I have done multiple boat trailers, two truck's chassis, utility trailer, and my land cruiser's rear bumper, in farm implement paint.
I really like both the Majic and Rustoleum brands. I use the red oxide farm implement primer on trailers on very roughly sanded bare metal. I use the standard grey farm implement primer on auto applications for no reason other than I haven't heard to use anything different.
My boat trailer gets the worst of it; sitting in direct high altitude Colorado sun all summer and getting dipped in the water about 50 times a year. No sign of any change to the paint after 3 years.
Can you use ospho without painting after? On underbody
I use a wire wheel, Correseal, and rustoleum rust prevention paint over top of that. Seems to do the trick quite well and I live in Michigan.
Just wanted to one up and say this is similar to what I do in the Maritime field. Can't recommend corroseal enough. Definitely want to add a paint over top of it. I know some people don't... but it will seriously help.
Purchasing an LX tomorrow that spent time up north. While almost all the frame is mint, the rear axle assembly needs to be cleaned up big time or replaced. I'm going to wire wheel corroseal and paint route till I figure out what I'm gonna do.
Purchasing an LX tomorrow that spent time up north. While almost all the frame is mint, the rear axle assembly needs to be cleaned up big time or replaced. I'm going to wire wheel corroseal and paint route till I figure out what I'm gonna do.
Rustproofing | New Jersey Rustproofing | Vehicle Rust Inhibitor | MILSPRAY - https://www.milspray.com/rustproofing
Not affiliated. But I am a customer here in NJ.
They contract to the armed services, rustproofing major vehicles and equipment. They are also contracted for rustproofing (using the T-32 product) by some Northeast DOT agencies (truck fleets).
May not be an option for those outside my area.
Not affiliated. But I am a customer here in NJ.
They contract to the armed services, rustproofing major vehicles and equipment. They are also contracted for rustproofing (using the T-32 product) by some Northeast DOT agencies (truck fleets).
May not be an option for those outside my area.
No, I would paint after
I’m moving from OR to NJ and considering this for my 100. How much would a job like this cost? Undercarriage only
For unremarkable light rust, use a Fluid Film or Blaster Surface Shield. You may or may not want to do prep as mentioned above. This treatment allows you some time before thinking of a bigger project involving converters, wire wheels, and paint. It takes about an hour to do the whole truck. Order the spray cap with hose and adapter as needed for the can you will use. This is for rust prevention, and inhibition. There's lots of info on the net about the products. having used both Fluid Film and Surface Shield, they each are good for different places/applications.
I ended up going with the Rustoleum product based on this video from Project Farm. Hit the surfaces with a wire brush and hit it with 2 coats.
If i ever go after the frame, i will use the Eastwood rust line up. They have one can that has a hose you can feed into the frame and blast the inside with rust converter.
