gauge readings (1 Viewer)

[tlcruiserman]

Wes,

I am sorry I had no idea that you did not have a turbo on it. So you are at 7 or 8k and wondering why it is running how with black smoke. I would say that is what you get at that altitude under load without turbo. My non turbo is a complete dog at 4k, I would not even think about towing at your altitude without turbo. Just my 2 cents but I think some others have more experience as to the limits of 70 series with 3b stock at those altitudes.

Michael

 

[wesintl]

No worries, I had planned the turbo soon but overheating issues in dec forced me to spend the cash on the head repair vs. enhancement with a turbo. It sucks but I don't want to do a real booty fab now and 6mos from now do it over again right.

 

[dieselbigot]

Wes,

When I lived in Denver back in 2000 my rig was totally stock with 33" tyres. I also had a beeotch of a time with the altitude and long climbs in CO. On grades like eisenhower tunnel I'd have to gear down to 2nd and beltched a ton of black smoke pissing off everyone who was trying to blast by me. I never had any overheating problem though...even in the summer when it got up to mid 90's.

As soon as I moved to CA and sea level, my power & beltching smoke problems disappeared. I never had any overheating problems then either even after I added a turbo and 4.88's...that was until I did the AC. Right after my AC went in I would run hot under load up steep grades but only when the ambiant temp was about 90+...It only ever got really bad twice and that was up long Sierra climbs at about 5000 elev in 100F+ weather. Both times I had to pull over and let it cool off...in both cases, once I was over the hill my temps dropped to normal.

Anything under 90F and my temps are fine, climbing a bit uphill and under load but nothing crazy. I have done everything....recored rad, TRD filter, T-stat, cranked boost etc....the last thing is the Rad and as soon as I get back from Death Valley I'm having a 4row XT installed. I'm convinced after speaking w/ a bunch of Aussies that this is what will finally get things right. 70's are known in OZ as being "cooling challanged". The fans, Tstats etc just dance around the real problem....limited cooling capacity from the factory.

my .02

 

[dieseldog]

All I've got to say is: stop searching for for other problems and/or solutions . . . TURBOCHARGE! At altitude, you are not supplying enough air to maintain the "excess air" that all diesels require. A turbo fairly-well immunizes diesels from high altitude operation. There exists no finer, simpler, quicker way to solve the problem you have been describing.

You can even maintain original factory fuel pump settings and you are better off with a turbo installed. Your EGT's will drop, your smoke levels will disappear and you will be pleased with the result. 'Nuff said.

 

[wesintl]

Thanks Brett, Did you have a pyro or temp gauge installed then? The cooling seems ok, what kind of max temps are you seeing? The pyro tends to make me nervous. Can you give me some more info on the 4 core xt?

Thanks dieseldog I realize i need to turbo from the minute I moved here but I also think a stock engine should be able to handle the environment. I just can't afford a turbo right now.

 

[dieselbigot]

Thanks Brett, Did you have a pyro or temp gauge installed then? The cooling seems ok, what kind of max temps are you seeing? The pyro tends to make me nervous. Can you give me some more info on the 4 core xt?

Wes,

I had boost & EGT gauges installed when my turbo went in...never did get a mech H20 gauge although it is on that long list of things to do eventually. I have my boost set at 13 psi max which adds some pressure to the engine but keeps the EGT's down...I average 800F cruising at 120kms in 70F weather. I really cant say what my average max H20 temps are becuase I'm going off that crappy stock gauge. I average in the "middle" with slight variences up and down depending on the ambiant temp, grades, altitude etc. Again, the only time it likes to run consistently warm is in high altitude, grades & ambiant temp....I've just not driven it much the past 2 summers so it really had'nt been a big issue. As for the Rad, basically any good rad shop should be able to use your old tanks and replace your core with whatever you want. The stock configuration is a 3 row with standard cooling fins...a 4 row XT just adds another cooling row (core) and more cooling fins per sq inch (XT)....this ought to solve the cooling issues.

 

[tlcruiserman]

Brett,

At 120k and 4.88 gears (?) with 34" tires and you are only running 800F, I have said it before and I will say it again, live a little and turn up the fuel on your 70 series, you are not utilizing all your turbo can do for ya. FWIW - Crank it up .

Michael

Wes,

I had boost & EGT gauges installed when my turbo went in...never did get a mech H20 gauge although it is on that long list of things to do eventually. I have my boost set at 13 psi max which adds some pressure to the engine but keeps the EGT's down...I average 800F cruising at 120kms in 70F weather. I really cant say what my average max H20 temps are becuase I'm going off that crappy stock gauge. I average in the "middle" with slight variences up and down depending on the ambiant temp, grades, altitude etc. Again, the only time it likes to run consistently warm is in high altitude, grades & ambiant temp....I've just not driven it much the past 2 summers so it really had'nt been a big issue. As for the Rad, basically any good rad shop should be able to use your old tanks and replace your core with whatever you want. The stock configuration is a 3 row with standard cooling fins...a 4 row XT just adds another cooling row (core) and more cooling fins per sq inch (XT)....this ought to solve the cooling issues.

 

[dieselbigot]

Brett, At 120k and 4.88 gears (?) with 34" tires and you are only running 800F, I have said it before and I will say it again, live a little and turn up the fuel on your 70 series, you are not utilizing all your turbo can do for ya. FWIW - Crank it up .Michael

Michael,

Clarification....I used to run much hotter (EGT's) with 4.88's / 34's and my boost at 9psi. I have since swapped to 4.56 / 35's & 13psi....that is the current set-up showing me 800F EGT's. I don't want to crank up the fuel until I see how it runs in hot summer temps up long grades....If it settles at anything less than 1200F I'll play with the fuel from there...

 

[Diesel Dude]

The location of your EGT makes a big difference some people put them before the Turbo and some after, I have heard up to 300-400F difference so 800F could actually be 1100F. As far as only being able to do 55 down the high way I had a similar problem on my 3B what it came down to was a pourous diafragm in the injection pump.

 

[crushers]

so talking with my turbo dude i asked him the same question and his reply was if you are with in a couple inches then the readings are about 200 F different and he also recommended for american trucks not to go over 1200 F but he mentioned that the Japanese metal is much higher quaility so you can run higher temps with no problems but did not mention how much higher...
to further our discussion on the River Shiver Brad, the glow plugs can brake off and cause no problem to the turbo because they get muntched up in the combustion chamber where as the pyro tip if it breaks off just goes directly into the turbo exhaust fins...
cheers