I want to wire in 4 more gauges (pyro, boost, mech oil and mech water) to light when I flip on the other ones. Is this too much current draw for the original circuit? I cant remember what the fuse is good for in the gauge light circuit. The easiest would be to tap the circuit once and run one power and one ground. Or run a relay if really necessary.
Gauge light circuit capacity
- Thread starter CRZA1
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It shouldn't be a problem. The instrument bulbs draw very little currently. However, if you are concerned, you can switch over the LED lights and not worry at all (for example: Super Bright LEDs - Car Bulbs).
It's a 15A fuse, but the dash lights are on the same circuit as the tailights. If you have an OEM diesel, then you already have a relay, but if it's an FJ, then no relay.
The new bulbs should be wired in parallel with the existing bulbs, and in order to get the dimming function, you will need to wire in parallel both wires to and from the bulb (some gauges only have one wire for the light, the bulb being grounded through the body of the instrument--this will not allow dimming with the Land Cruiser wiring). The wire from the bulb doesn't go to ground, but through the rheostat (dimming knob) then to ground.
It's a 15A fuse, but the dash lights are on the same circuit as the tailights. If you have an OEM diesel, then you already have a relay, but if it's an FJ, then no relay.
The new bulbs should be wired in parallel with the existing bulbs, and in order to get the dimming function, you will need to wire in parallel both wires to and from the bulb (some gauges only have one wire for the light, the bulb being grounded through the body of the instrument--this will not allow dimming with the Land Cruiser wiring). The wire from the bulb doesn't go to ground, but through the rheostat (dimming knob) then to ground.
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