Good thinking, i didnt think about that.
FZJ80 Coolant Filter Install
- Thread starter Rich
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Good thinking, i didnt think about that.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I'm bummed. Rich and his wife were gracious enough to send me the sizing specs for the bracket to mount on the firewall. I had it made out of CNC'd aluminum but never did the install. I really need to get the rest of the parts together and install this.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ok I feel like a complete a******. Rich's wife sent me the original specs via a cut up manila folder and not only did I lose the plate I did two years ago but I lost the original specs. 
Until today!!!!!!
It was in one of the boxes from my desk at work that I never opened after our move to Burbank. So now that I have it, I gave it to one of my engineers to make a solid works file for it so that I can get it CNC'd again. Gonna do it up in aluminum and anodize black. I need to get the mounting for the adapter plate that RICH used first. Here are the models (EDIT: never mind the location of the standoffs, they are actually supposed to be on the other side but since they are not part of the plate it doesn't matter):
Until today!!!!!!
It was in one of the boxes from my desk at work that I never opened after our move to Burbank. So now that I have it, I gave it to one of my engineers to make a solid works file for it so that I can get it CNC'd again. Gonna do it up in aluminum and anodize black. I need to get the mounting for the adapter plate that RICH used first. Here are the models (EDIT: never mind the location of the standoffs, they are actually supposed to be on the other side but since they are not part of the plate it doesn't matter):
Last edited:
I recently siphoned out about 3 liters from the 92' in preparation for a fan clutch swap. The fluid had time to sit in a clear bottle over a few weeks and what I found was a thin layer of super fine material which appeared to be a rust color (in green coolant). During that same time I was at my local autoshop hanging out while my wife's car was worked on. I watched the crew change the radiator filter on a tow truck, and a light bulb went on in my head. So I turned to mud and found this thread.
after thinking it over, I do not think it is worth it for me to install a permanent filter. However, having had worked with live fish for many years (aquarium/aquaculture) I would like to offer a suggestion for mudders interested in clean rad fluid. If an aquarium was super dirty we used to bring along a setup on a dolly which consisted of a strong pump, a canister filter, and a UV sterilizer. We ran it temporarily to clear up the water of toxic blooms/suspended sediment etc, and sterilize. This system could easily be applied to filtering a radiator (no need for UV), without the need for permanent install of filter media. Here is what I reccommend:
1. setup 2 ports, one for fluid in, one for fluid out (autozone Ts would work, or maybe somehow on rad fill opening)
2. purchase an aquarium or other pump (home depot, Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc.) I would reccommend atleast 1800 GPH to handle the head of passing fluid through the engine (Danner mag-drive are excellent)
3. purchase a canister filter, pleated filter media (the smaller the micron the better, I would go sub 100), and necessary plumbing/hoses/clamps to match filter, pump, and access ports (3/4" would be good, any smaller and your pump will have to work too hard). these can also be purchased at the above places, and all the same stuff is basically used for aquariums and home water filtration systems. Automotive filters likely just differ in their temperature tolerances
4. Setup a closed loop on the cooling system and flush away. Run vehicle a little, might help stir up some junk-but do not run too long might get too hot for pump. Rinse pleated filter in a bucket to capture fines-if your curious.
I plan on trying this in the near future and will report back. This could be done as part of oil change routine, or as you see fit. Also: air locks may occur (no flow) which can often be remedied by shutting off the pump and burping the system. Dont forget to prime the pump-
Cheers,
RG
after thinking it over, I do not think it is worth it for me to install a permanent filter. However, having had worked with live fish for many years (aquarium/aquaculture) I would like to offer a suggestion for mudders interested in clean rad fluid. If an aquarium was super dirty we used to bring along a setup on a dolly which consisted of a strong pump, a canister filter, and a UV sterilizer. We ran it temporarily to clear up the water of toxic blooms/suspended sediment etc, and sterilize. This system could easily be applied to filtering a radiator (no need for UV), without the need for permanent install of filter media. Here is what I reccommend:
1. setup 2 ports, one for fluid in, one for fluid out (autozone Ts would work, or maybe somehow on rad fill opening)
2. purchase an aquarium or other pump (home depot, Amazon, Harbor Freight, etc.) I would reccommend atleast 1800 GPH to handle the head of passing fluid through the engine (Danner mag-drive are excellent)
3. purchase a canister filter, pleated filter media (the smaller the micron the better, I would go sub 100), and necessary plumbing/hoses/clamps to match filter, pump, and access ports (3/4" would be good, any smaller and your pump will have to work too hard). these can also be purchased at the above places, and all the same stuff is basically used for aquariums and home water filtration systems. Automotive filters likely just differ in their temperature tolerances
4. Setup a closed loop on the cooling system and flush away. Run vehicle a little, might help stir up some junk-but do not run too long might get too hot for pump. Rinse pleated filter in a bucket to capture fines-if your curious.
I plan on trying this in the near future and will report back. This could be done as part of oil change routine, or as you see fit. Also: air locks may occur (no flow) which can often be remedied by shutting off the pump and burping the system. Dont forget to prime the pump-
Cheers,
RG
ppc
M Go Blue
if your coolant is to the point where it needs to be filtered, the system needs to completely flushed and refilled. Coolant contains lubricants, rust inhibitors etc, that need to be changed and must have the proper pH. Filtering solids isn't going to get the job done.
You also do need to drain coolant to service the fan clutch. Only if you are removing the water pump. If you are doing that then a complete flush of engine, radiator, heater cores needs to be done removing the block drain. Also the time to replace thermostat and all the rubber hoses.
You also do need to drain coolant to service the fan clutch. Only if you are removing the water pump. If you are doing that then a complete flush of engine, radiator, heater cores needs to be done removing the block drain. Also the time to replace thermostat and all the rubber hoses.
Agreed ppc. This is not intended to be a bandaid procedure. I overhauled my complete cooling system recently, so I was confident that I could re-use and not waste my coolant.
If you are ocd about your rig (as many mudders are), this might be for you. After my cooling problem mess that reached a climax at head removal, I want peice of mind that my cooling system is running as optimal as possible-
If you are ocd about your rig (as many mudders are), this might be for you. After my cooling problem mess that reached a climax at head removal, I want peice of mind that my cooling system is running as optimal as possible-
@NLXTACY : Joey, if you are making one of these, I would like to talk to you about getting oneOk I feel like a complete a******. Rich's wife sent me the original specs via a cut up manila folder and not only did I lose the plate I did two years ago but I lost the original specs.
Until today!!!!!!
It was in one of the boxes from my desk at work that I never opened after our move to Burbank. So now that I have it, I gave it to one of my engineers to make a solid works file for it so that I can get it CNC'd again. Gonna do it up in aluminum and anodize black. I need to get the mounting for the adapter plate that RICH used first. Here are the models (EDIT: never mind the location of the standoffs, they are actually supposed to be on the other side but since they are not part of the plate it doesn't matter):
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