Fusables vs. Breakers/Fuses

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ntsqd

technerd
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Dylan's thread on fusable links got me to thinking, has anyone replaced their fusable links with something more easily replaced or re-set? A search turned up a couple folks threatening to do it, but I didn't find any evidence in the most obvious threads that they'd actually done it.
I'm thinking of using some of the Blue Sea large current fuses, or breakers (in parallel if need-be).

Comments? Suggestions?
 
My comment? You're fixing something that shouldn't be broken. I've owned dozens of just about every series of land cruiser up thru 62, never had to replace one yet. Don't buy a rig with multiple electrical problems, or a rotted out stock harness, and maintain what you've got. If you do have a short, find and fix it. I'd be quite alarmed if I thought I had to deal with tripping the fuse on the main circuit with any regularity!!
 
I agree don't fix something that don't need fixing . I've never had a problem with the cruisers I have/had owned. As a matter of fact the one in my 60 now looks like the plug has been on fire for some reason and still works.
If you are itching for tinkering and looking for something electrical to upgrade I suggest going with a ARB/IPF headlght harness and new IPF halogen bulb headlights. They are terrific over stock.
 
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Thanks for the comments. My concern was to have something easily field repaired using much more common parts. I'm not a rock crawler, just this year I've been a couple places where it was nearly 100 miles of dirt to the nearest pavement. (Sadly, not in the FJ as it is not yet ready for that sort of trip.)
It's not that I'm having a problem, it's that I don't want to have an insurmountable problem in BFE. I'm also frugal and the links are not cheap to be carrying as spares.

I found that the much more common (than an OE fuse) Maxi Fuse of the correct amperage fits the glow plug fuse block on my VW diesel and was extending that thinking to the FJ.
 
if you are in the middle of nowhere you can always just replace the fusible link with a piece of wire...
 
A fusible link is designed to handle high current draws for extended periods without adding excessive resistance. Also, they are designed for slow-blow, and only for direct or nearly direct to short conditions. If you can mirror that, then go for it, perhaps. However, as stated, they aren't a high problem area and can be bypassed in emergencies (I'd bypass with bulk fusible link carried as trail spares in 6" precut lengths with proper wire terminals crimped on already, IMHO)
 
I got to thinking about this further yesterday morning. Why did Toyota not use a fuse? I concluded the same thing, that the reason for fuseable wires vs. fuses was the need for a slow blow that would allow temporary over currents for motor starting in-rush current and the like.

I seem to recall that there are Slo-Blo versions of the Maxi Fuse.

A simple wire would work as a getcha-back, but that's undignified. :)
I'd rather have a no-tools solution in place b4 it is an issue. More investigation required.......
 
From the looks of the graph on this page:
http://www.bussmann.com/pdf/b033060e-0a30-43aa-a702-fc95bb389dd8.pdf
a 60A Maxi Fuse will allow a 100A current for about 22-25 seconds. That ought to be slow enough of a blow.

I did find this quote: "Many manufacturers have replaced fusible links with fuse elements or Maxi-Fuses", so I guess I'm not all that far off target.

A while back there was a post about what fuse wire size protected what service wire size. Unfortunately the poster did not make note of what the service wire length was, so interpolating what the current capacity of each fuse wire is isn't possible. Lacking an FSM (on the short purchase list), is the max rated current for each fusible wire listed anywhere?
I've turned up a listing (below) on a MOPAR page, but am curious if Toyota thinks differently.

Hypalon Link (Color) .. MAXI Fuse Rating
18 gauge (grey) ................ 50 amp
20 gauge (orange) ............. 40 amp
22 gauge (white) ............... 30 amp
 

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