Fues and Relay blocks

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OregonLC

OregonLC

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Finding a fuse block is simple. What I can't find is a fuse/relay block combo. I'd like to keep everything as clean and tidy as possible. Would be great to have an enclosure where you can just plug in standard relays to control lights, etc. I just seems messy to get a nice fuse block and then have 3 or 4 separate relays handing around.
 
CappyKD said:
I was looking for the same thing. I ended up going with these: Amazon.com: 12 VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET: Electronics With a Blue Sea 5026 block. The pigtails pictured have a slot and tab setup so you can connect them together to make it like a single unit the just use the Relay tabs to mount.
Click to expand...

Ya, but unfortunately that still requires the relay to live on it's own with its associated wiring outside of a tidy enclosure.

I suppose the alternative would be to just cut a box out of a random Toyota at a yard, but I'd rather have a smaller one for just a few relays and fuses. Ideally, I'll have one in the front for lights and a 2nd in the back for hotel loads.
 
I agree with you. Cleaner is better, I weighed it out and the ability to use $3.50 relays vs. a cheap or free TOY sub block and needing much more expensive and harder to get relays swayed me to go this route. WHen you pull it off, I'd love to see what you finish with. I'm using 4 relay sockets underhood with a BlueSea 5006 Maxi fuse block feeding them. Thats for compressor, slider lights and driving/offroad lights. Then I will run a 0/1 gauge to the back, split part off for future via an 0/1 gauge fused power dist block and hook the other leg to the Blue Sea 5026 mounted in the rear. I figure I will use no more than 2 relays in the back, one for rear facing lights and one for a large relay for an inverter. Still working out the details, looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
 
Yeah... been wanting one of these for a while. I just do not have the need yet. But have saved the link for when I am ready. Once I start adding some Aux lights.....
 
I use a Whelen PCC8R for things that need switching, and a pair of basic blue-sea fuse blocks for things that don't. Things that stay hot when ignition is off and have their own power switch (spot light, HID relays, external speaker, fridge, ham radio, etc) are on these fuse blocks. There's one in the engine bay for front related things, and one in the back for the stuff inside the truck.

The Whelen is used to control the rest of the additional lights in the vehicle, including the Rigid LED lights on the back bumper. It gave me a small easy to operate switch panel that I mounted next to the transfer case lever, and kept the wiring pretty neat in the back, with all the relays built-in. It's something to consider, your setup might not require something as fancy.


Whelen PCC8R here's a link to some end-user pictures on another forum.
 
Whelen is a good idea loud. I like the idea of combining something like their PCC6W with the Wagongear relay box. I'd rather not wire (6) 25 amp circuits into (and out of) the cabin.

That PCC8R looks nice, but it's only 20A x 3 (plus 10A x 5). The Wagongear is 30A x 5.
 
from what I was reading the whelen isnt waterproof. The wagongear one is. I want to mount it in the engine compartment on the slee dual battery tray i have installed. So that may make a difference for some. I do like the whelen for controlling lights though... hmmm lots to think about and figure out.
 
Loud, what all do you run on your whelen? I saw it on the san juan run but forgot to ask you about it. So you have it hooked up so that it is only on with the vehicle? Couldnt you also power all of your other aux stuff off of it such as HAM, CB, ext speaker, lights, etc. if it were a constant source, assuming that these items do not exceed the relay limit? It just looks like a slick and clean setup and wondering why you would not just use it for all your smaller switchable aux loads.

1loudLX said:
I use a Whelen PCC8R for things that need switching, and a pair of basic blue-sea fuse blocks for things that don't. Things that stay hot when ignition is off and have their own power switch (spot light, HID relays, external speaker, fridge, ham radio, etc) are on these fuse blocks. There's one in the engine bay for front related things, and one in the back for the stuff inside the truck.

The Whelen is used to control the rest of the additional lights in the vehicle, including the Rigid LED lights on the back bumper. It gave me a small easy to operate switch panel that I mounted next to the transfer case lever, and kept the wiring pretty neat in the back, with all the relays built-in. It's something to consider, your setup might not require something as fancy.


Whelen PCC8R here's a link to some end-user pictures on another forum.
Click to expand...
 
Because, to turn on the HAM i'd have to push a button THEN turn on the radio. It's set to power anything connected to it regardless of ignition position. It only switches my LED lights right now, but I've got room to expand ;) Yes I could run everything off it, but I dont need that stuff on switches, they have their own and when off, they're OFF.
 
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