Fuel/Idle solenoid (1 Viewer)

[faalkinaey]

So I’m trying to diagnose an intermittent no idle / rough idle, truck seems to intermittently not want to idle under 1K, have to screw in the idle speed to 1200 or 1500 rpm for it to idle. Other times it will idle at 7-800 rpm fine. Went to check my idle cut solenoid, with key ignition on I hear a consistent click when tapping the connectors together, White/Black wire is getting 12V and green is ground I’m assuming? With truck running idling I unhook the connectors and…. Nothing, no change to idle, truck doesn’t die which I expected it to, if it’s functioning properly the truck should die without it connected REGARDLESS of rpm speed? Should I ground the green wire to the carb is that how this electrical circuit works (computer disconnects ground = no fuel on decel) I really couldn’t care less about dumping fuel on decel if this is a decent fix.

 

[OSS]

Check the operation of the fuel cut solenoid as described in the Toyota Emissions manual.
Page 3-46

Also check Poor Idling tips in the troubleshooting section of that manual.

 

[OSS]

your avatar picture shows a FJ62 but your question relates to a FJ60.
If your (2F) engine is still stock with all the factory smog equipment, check the manifold vacuum when the engine is idling fine and when its not idling well. If the vacuum is lower when its idling like crap and you've got all the smog equipment - its possible that the EGR valve isn't seating fully every time.
If an EGR valve leaks, it creates a vacuum leak and idle will be bad.

 

[faalkinaey]

your avatar picture shows a FJ62 but your question relates to a FJ60.
If your (2F) engine is still stock with all the factory smog equipment, check the manifold vacuum when the engine is idling fine and when its not idling well. If the vacuum is lower when its idling like crap and you've got all the smog equipment - its possible that the EGR valve isn't seating fully every time.
If an EGR valve leaks, it creates a vacuum leak and idle will be bad.

The photo is of my 62, but the issue is on my 60. I do have some EGR issues, I currently have it disabled by capping the line from modulator to egr valve, when it’s uncapped there is a FAIRLY noticeable loss of power, not un-drivable but you could really tell the difference in the power output

 

[Spike Strip]

The easiest way to check the FCS or Idle solenoid is to disconnect the green connector to it, then with the KEY on / Engine off, tap the halves of the connector together so the terminals just make contact and you should hear a 'click-click' from the solenoid when it's opening/closing. If you don't hear that, check that you're getting 12v at the harness side of the ICS connector with Key on, eng off

If you're getting the 12v, the solenoid is bad (rare, but it happens) If you're not getting the 12v, then you've got other, more involved issues.