Fuel feed

[mindy70]

Morning, hope someone can help with this please. What's the yellow wires and the white wires on this fuel primer pump?
I'm not getting fuel to injectors.
Fuel Solenoid clicks when ignition is on. There is fuel at the filter. When I pump the primer I don't get much resistance unless I suck the filter outlet pipe at the same time.

And on the second pic what is this black wire with ring on end to. It's a live feed and pretty short so could only have been attached to something in the close vicinity to here.
I unfortunately can't see what it was attached to from the pics before I dismantled it all...

 

[Felde]

Welcome to the madness
Do you have workshop manuals (including wiring diagrams) for your rig? If not: Get some.
Check here:

FAQ - Online Repair Manual Sources

This link contains many manuals for various vehicles including Landcruiser. The manuals for the landcruiser are under "Toyota workshop and repair manuals" The site can get busy due to the traffic. If you cant get through try again later;) Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org **** LINK IS DEAD...

forum.ih8mud.com

You say the manual priming pump is not hard? Then there is air in the fuel line. More likely than any electrical fault.
Looking at your major operations that you did on your rig since pulling it out of that meadow, your main fuel line from the tank si probably empty.
Neither the priming pump nor the IP are capable to pull enough fuel trough to bleed that line.
There are pumps that look like a oversized syringe, holding about 500ml. Use clear PVC hose, connect to the IP inInlet hose and pull fuel trough line, sedimenter (if your rig has one) and fuel filter unless free of bubbles. You may need to pull 2-3 liters trough!
Use the priming pump then to bleed the IP and fuel filter: Pump, until somewhat hard. Open bleeder on fuel filter, with PVC clear hose on. Note bubbles. Close. Pump primer pump again. Open bleeder.... Repeat until primer pump gets hard in 2-3 actuation.
To bleed injector lines, take out the glow plugs (yes) and crank engine that way. You can observe fuel to be dispensed into cylinders then.
Another approach is to crack open the injector lines at the injectors.
CAUTION High pressure operations with hazardous liquid. Wear eye and hand protection and have an extinguisher at hand.
All operations are described here in the forum multiple times. Use the search.

Ring terminals are only used on: The battery terminals, on fusible links, on grounds to the chassis, on alternator, starter and winch motor. Probably on main lines for external aftermarket fuseboxes. Anything else should be plugs and sockets of some sort, at least in an original harness.
Black cables should be ground cables.
You say that one is 'hot', so it has 12V (or 24V) plus on it?! And it's next to the battery? Very suspicious. But impossible to tell what it is without knowing where it comes from.
I could guess (but that's a guess only) this is a fusible link (those are usually dark blue), which originally is supposed to go to the battery or a connector to the main harness (depending which end we are looking at). If the main powerline of your rig gets fed already somewhat else, the fusible link might get fed 'backwards' from the harness. In any case, this would not be what you want.
Find out where that one comes from and report.
Look at your main connection battery to harness. What's that like? Fusible link or any other big fuse next to battery? (If not: not good).
Good luck Ralf

 

[mindy70]

Hi ralf thanks muchly for the info.

I removed cleaned and replaced tank and cleaned lines so potentially alot of air in there. I didnt realise primer wouldnt pull it from tank. I have a large grease gun sized transmission filling syringe so will try that to pull it through. Dont think i have anything that resembles a bleeder on the fuel filter/primer pump ?
Will crack injectors once its through...
Is that a heater on the filter?

Ill do some more investigation re that cable. It looks well installed not very aftermarket just cant see what it would be attached to as its live but there was some pretty shoddy wiring on the old girl when i got her so maybe this should be an earth and is badly connected somewhere.

 

[Felde]

Yup , that big syringe should do.
Bleeder on fuel filter looks like a brake bleeder nipple and should be located on top of the housing you screw the filter cartridge into.

To look up names of unknown parts you can use the parts diagrams provided by partsouq.com or amayama.com .
Good luck Ralf

 

[mindy70]

Not got one of those bleeders then!

 

[coldtaco]

that big black wire looks like it went to a relay.

 

[mindy70]

I spent much of today sucking fuel through the filter and trying to get it to the IP . The primer pumper never reaches pressure and i think after a while it is draining back down so my thoughts are the diaphragm or something is knackered and letting air in? It did fire up but not for very long.... Until this evening when i removed primer pump from bracket and turned it upside down and then primed, hey presto it pumps like a good un and gets proper hard. this enabled me to start and run the truck for a few minutes albeit a bit rough and unable to rev with throttle.
To me this would seem that the top end of the primer pump has an air leak??? So that the IP runs badly for a bit as it sucks some air through then it gets too much air and wont run at all?????
Assume its just a new top end to the primer pump then?

 

[ALEXY]

that primer pump is present in the Toyota diagrams for the European spec LJ s. its the winter pack option, guess is meant to heat the fuel before going to the IP., so probably has a temperature sensor and a heating element. Its discontinued and price was in the range of 300+ euros.

If you replace the hose between the fuel primer and the IP with a transparent hose, u should be able to see air bubbles or not.
My fuel primer was letting air in bad time, I replaced it with another identical second hand primer, that leaked air as well.

So I ended up getting a basic one from Roughtrax.uk for a hillux. Mind LJ fuel lines have different size (think its 6mm id) then HJ variants (which might have 8mm id).
The brand new primer still leaks some air, but less then the old one.

Another air ingress point on your fuel line could be at the metal fuel pipe as it leaves the tank. They usually rust at the bent.

 

[mindy70]

that primer pump is present in the Toyota diagrams for the European spec LJ s. its the winter pack option, guess is meant to heat the fuel before going to the IP., so probably has a temperature sensor and a heating element. Its discontinued and price was in the range of 300+ euros.

If you replace the hose between the fuel primer and the IP with a transparent hose, u should be able to see air bubbles or not.
My fuel primer was letting air in bad time, I replaced it with another identical second hand primer, that leaked air as well.

So I ended up getting a basic one from Roughtrax.uk for a hillux. Mind LJ fuel lines have different size (think its 6mm id) then HJ variants (which might have 8mm id).
The brand new primer still leaks some air, but less then the old one.

Another air ingress point on your fuel line could be at the metal fuel pipe as it leaves the tank. They usually rust at the bent.

I've done some more investigation and now think that thing with the two yellow wires is a vacuum valve. I'm guessing if this is faulty it will allow diesel to flow back away from the IP.
You can still get these vacuum switches from amayama for £30 . I'll whip it off and check it out but probably get a new one. Thanks for the tip regarding clear pipe I'll try that. I removed tank sandblasted and repainted replaced all rusty bits so that should be ok. Interesting stuff finding out how it all works!

that primer pump is present in the Toyota diagrams for the European spec LJ s. its the winter pack option, guess is meant to heat the fuel before going to the IP., so probably has a temperature sensor and a heating element. Its discontinued and price was in the range of 300+ euros.

If you replace the hose between the fuel primer and the IP with a transparent hose, u should be able to see air bubbles or not.
My fuel primer was letting air in bad time, I replaced it with another identical second hand primer, that leaked air as well.

So I ended up getting a basic one from Roughtrax.uk for a hillux. Mind LJ fuel lines have different size (think its 6mm id) then HJ variants (which might have 8mm id).
The brand new primer still leaks some air, but less then the old one.

Another air ingress point on your fuel line could be at the metal fuel pipe as it leaves the tank. They usually rust at the bent.

 

[Tigris]

I could be wrong, but I think the wires are for a fuel heater-equipped truck, not all models have it. Mine got one connector for the water detector only.

As for the the primer not priming, I went through this pain when I was baselineing my truck upon arrival. I replaced the fuel filter and for the life of me could not get the damn thing to prime. I ended up buying a cheap manual liquid transfer pump and hooked it up to pull fuel out of the primer outlet that feed into the IP. Spent the day without luck, gave up, and then it hit me, I had my manual pump plumbed backwards
Took under five minutes to get her running the next morning. Here is a picture of that pump I used, also use some clamps on the hoses.

Best of luck

 

[mindy70]

so i made up a new fuel feed direct to the injectorpump and hey presto she runs ok. so looks like airr is getting in through the primer pump somewhere. Ill just get a new filter head, dont think oem ones are still available

 

[mindy70]

Got the new filter head from amayama (hugely unhelpful useless tw8ts) wacked it on and it primed up straight away and runs tip top. Very happy!
just need to put the new regulator (from morons at amayama) on now see if it charges..