FRP TOP painting

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Gel Coat is what is normaly used on fibreglass to seal it. You add pigment to tint to the color you want. This is expensive to do, but gives it a great shine.

You can just paint it if you prep properly first. Sand everything with 300 grit sandpaper, then use a tack cloth to clean off all dust. You can use spraybombs to paint, but you will need quite a few(6-10).

Buying a half gallon (2 litres) and putting it in a proper paintsprayer run off compressed air will be cheaper and do a better job, if you have access to the equipment.

Two or three coats should do it, waiting till each coat is tacky, then apply the next coat. Lacquer should be sprayed on top of the final coat of paint to get a proffesional look(matt, semi or glossy).
If you wait to long between coats and allow the paint to fully dry you will have to wait 24 hours for the paint to cure, resand, and then start adding layers of paint again, so your best bet is to babysit the job untill the last coat. This will take several hours.

Keep everything CLEAN in your workspace so you dont get debris in the paintjob.

Do this in a well ventellated area, away from open flame or spark, or you will blow yourself up!!!!!!

Outside on a warm calm day would be fine, in a paintbooth would be the best.

Cheers,
Kevin
 
There is a few MWB cruisers in my area where they have sprayed the FRP the same colour as the body and it looks good;)
 
is that an all blue one? ive only seen an all blue and all black

I know of 2 blue ones and a charcoal and of course the factory painted white ones.

T
Of the 2 blue ones,one is a darker blue probably the factory colour and the other is a metallic blue BJ73 painted by the PO. the latter doesnt look too good up close
 
When we did anything fibre glass, we would spray a sealer coat on first after finish, of course sanding before to give it tooth, we would used the 3M scotch bright pads.

The pads are especially good for uneven surfaces.

Cleaning with window cleaner prior to the final wipe chemical will remove other contaments followed by tach cloth. Open the tach cloth prior to using it and let hang for bit before using, not sure why I was told to do this, but I know several painters who do this.

We would follow with either a single stage paint, sprayed with a HVLP gun.

Base clear is easier to apply than single stage but takes a little more time since you spray the base then 2 to 3 coats of clear. Pretty sure you can matt finish clear coats.

Rob
 
If you sand the top to prep for painting, you might tend to sand off the texture. I would recommend a coarse Scotch pad (the purple ones) to rough up the surface for paint. They will scratch the surface for better adhesion, but not flatten the texture.

Rob: you unfold and dry a tack cloth for a bit after you take it out of the plastic wrapper because it will be less likely to leave any residue from the sticky stuff they soak the rag in.

You think base clear is easier to apply? I have found that the base is REAL easy, but the clear usually is a bit thinner than a single stage and is easier to run if you are not careful. As well, base/clear will not fade like a single stage does. If you see a red car that is all faded, it is undolubtedly a single stage paint job. Clear coated paint would not do that. You can matte a clear coat.

-kevin
 
Hi, my question now is this, I have a charcoal BJ74 FRP (silver top). I want to change the colour to either beige/white or green (South African parksboard green). What colour should I make the top then ? White on white seems right, beige and green I dont know. What was the factory colours when 2 toned ?
 
One of the blue ones is my mates. He said it was painted professionally by the previous owner and even using professional techniques and the best primers the aussie sun still made the top flake off. It does look good though
DSC_1818-1.jpg
 
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