Front rotor question

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jfrench

jfrench

10 Year 15 Year
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Apr 16, 2008
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Working on a front end refresh/rebuild (knuckles, hub, calipers, rotors, pads, etc.).

My rotors were only 1-2 mm thicker than minimum spec so I bought new from my local Toyota dealer instead of getting them turned.

My rotor part number was 43512-60040. The rotors I got are 43512-60100. Identical except for one thing...
they're missing the 2 holes for bolting on the hub. The bolts go in through the back side of the rotor and the hub is threaded to receive them.

I'm assuming I can just drill these holes into the new rotors and be done with it? Or since the wheel studs will be pressed into the hub from the back side of the rotor can I just rely on those and delete the 2 additional bolts?

Thanks
rotors.webp
 
I think it would be okay to drill holes. I would leave them as they are and not use the other 2 holes at all.

I bought a set of drilled/slotted rotors that belong on an 80 series. They did have the extra holes.
 
Thanks fellas. I'll avoid mucking up a brand new set of rotors and just omit the two bolts and use the wheel studs as recommended.

On a related note, I inquired in the service department at the dealership how much it would cost to get the studs pressed into the rotors/hubs and they quoted me 2 hours for a total of $250. I raised a bit of stink and they said they could do it for an hour's worth of labor. Thanks but no thanks. Napa quoted $2.50/stud. Since I don't own a press and I don't want to hammer them in I'll opt for Napa.

@beno, I'm slowly working through all the parts you provided for routine maintenance. Thanks again!
 
I bought a junky Harbor Freight press for just that purpose. I have found other uses for it since.
 
I considered a tabletop HF press but ultimately passed because I didn't want to try to find space in the garage to store it. I'm sure I could find other uses for it but not frequently enough to justify taking up the space. Too many cruisers (2), cruiser parts, tools, and other stuff;)

Edit: Did I just pass up an opportunity to get a new tool just because I won't use it very often and have no place to put it?! What the hell is wrong with me. Mods, please don't ban me from Mud
 
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I went through the same thing with the rotors and have been running them as is for over a year with no problems. Really when you think about it there is no way for the rotors to move.
BJ74 OEM disk brake rotors ??
And their is no need to press the studs.They are not hard to hammer in
 
I bought a free-standing press and put it in a corner of my work space. It serves as a shelf and a place to hang stuff when I am not using it.
 
Malahki said:
I went through the same thing with the rotors and have been running them as is for over a year with no problems. Really when you think about it there is no way for the rotors to move.
BJ74 OEM disk brake rotors ??
And their is no need to press the studs.They are not hard to hammer in
Click to expand...
Should have searched before starting a new thread. Rookie mistake. I'm ashamed now
 
jfrench said:
Thanks fellas. I'll avoid mucking up a brand new set of rotors and just omit the two bolts and use the wheel studs as recommended.

On a related note, I inquired in the service department at the dealership how much it would cost to get the studs pressed into the rotors/hubs and they quoted me 2 hours for a total of $250. I raised a bit of stink and they said they could do it for an hour's worth of labor. Thanks but no thanks. Napa quoted $2.50/stud. Since I don't own a press and I don't want to hammer them in I'll opt for Napa.

@beno, I'm slowly working through all the parts you provided for routine maintenance. Thanks again!
Click to expand...

sadam_husain said:
If you do decide to hammer them in they smack in easily with a good hammer I've done plenty of them like that over the years without problems or damage
Click to expand...

Concur.
I have found that they drive readily out and back in. To protect the threads, I have a ~2 inch diameter brass drift that works well between the hammer and the stud.
On re-installation, I locate them with the hammer (no brass drift required). Then I set them with the help of an old lug nut. I thread the lug nut on upside down on the stud (the bevel is facing up) and drive it home with the air ratchet. This gives me a little extra assurance that the stud is fully set and in good condition before re-assembly is complete. [Don't want to find a bad stud after all this]

A press remains on my wish list for the shop. There always seem to be work arounds allowing purchase of other more urgent items.
 
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