front pinion bearing and preload help

[auran]

hi there,
so the pinion shaft nut has come loose twice now, the first time i didnt know about preload and just tightened the nut and then it came loose again so havent wanted to drive it. is it possible to take the pinion shaft out and replace the bearing and spacer without taking the axles out? i dont have the funds to get a shop to take the axles out and was hoping id be able to get away with them just taking the shaft out through the centre without touching the axles? from what ive read i dont think i'd be able to replace the bearing or set the preload correctly on my own with my current devices. hope im making sense...
info very much appreciated, thanks..

 

[baldilocks]

You won’t be able to remove the pinion gear but you can remove and replace the bearing, crush sleeve and nut that you will have access to once the driveline has been removed. It sounds like you need a copy of the correct year factory service manual.

Once the nut is properly torqued, you must stake the nut into the groove provided on the end of the pinion gear to prevent loosening.

 

[auran]

thanks for reply. fingers crossed it goes smoothly and somewhat cheaply i suppose..

 

[TurboDennis]

The main thing that keeps the nut from backing out is the torque, not the staking. Staking is just for extra insurance.
That's the purpose of the crush sleeve - to allow you to apply a lot of torque to the nut without putting too much preload on the bearings.
When people are doing a half ass pinion seal replacement, they usually put the nut back on "to the same position where it was, or just a bit further". This is why the nut backs out later - once the crush sleeve has been crushed, you will never get the required torque on the nut when it's in the original position (or close to it). And if you tighten the nut to spec, you will overload the bearings.

Anytime the pinion nut is off, crush sleeve MUST be replaced (if you wanna do it right). The main problem with doing that is that its almost impossible to pull the inner race of the outer pinion bearing off the pinion without a special toyota SST. Then you need a fancy torque wrench with peak memory function to measure the bearing preload accurately ( as it has to be done within the gear backlash - without the pinion touching the ring gear). In other words, this procedure is rather complicated and probably well beyond the level of skill of someone who didnt know about bearing preload until recently. If you want it done right, your best bet is taking it to the dealer.

 

[auran]

The main thing that keeps the nut from backing out is the torque, not the staking. Staking is just for extra insurance.
That's the purpose of the crush sleeve - to allow you to apply a lot of torque to the nut without putting too much preload on the bearings.
When people are doing a half ass pinion seal replacement, they usually put the nut back on "to the same position where it was, or just a bit further". This is why the nut backs out later - once the crush sleeve has been crushed, you will never get the required torque on the nut when it's in the original position (or close to it). And if you tighten the nut to spec, you will overload the bearings.

Anytime the pinion nut is off, crush sleeve MUST be replaced (if you wanna do it right). The main problem with doing that is that its almost impossible to pull the inner race of the outer pinion bearing off the pinion without a special toyota SST. Then you need a fancy torque wrench with peak memory function to measure the bearing preload accurately ( as it has to be done within the gear backlash - without the pinion touching the ring gear). In other words, this procedure is rather complicated and probably well beyond the level of skill of someone who didnt know about bearing preload until recently. If you want it done right, your best bet is taking it to the dealer.

Cheers for reply. Yeah from what I've read I'd agree with you. Trying to feel out my options.

 

[auran]

is the bearing the same in other series cruisers? cant find one specifically for 80. cheers

 

[baldilocks]

Forward bearing - 90366-35028
Rear bearing - 90366-30025
Nut - 90179-20001
Oil slinger- 41214-60010

These part numbers are correct for my North American 1993 model. I imagine they are all the same. In the future, when posting questions, provide pertinent information about you vehicle.

 

[auran]

Forward bearing - 90366-35028
Rear bearing - 90366-30025
Nut - 90179-20001
Oil slinger- 41214-60010

These part numbers are correct for my North American 1993 model. I imagine they are all the same. In the future, when posting questions, provide pertinent information about you vehicle.

Will do thx mate