Trying to get the actuator off. How many stud/bolts hold this on?
Step by step explanation would be great!
Step by step explanation would be great!
Front locker 80 series
- Thread starter green40
- Start date
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two nits and a bolt I think. then wiggle and pull it out. they can really get themselves stuck on there.
Most likely it will break pulling it off. All the ones I have had broke right below the seal surface. Cleaned it up and JB welded it back together. Sand down the JB and call it good.
- Thread starter
- #4
Not what I wanted to hear!
- Thread starter
- #5
Got it off this morning, took about 10 minutes. Used a putty knife and hammer to get it started. Once the seal was broken it just popped off.
now getting it back on is the fun part. U need to pull the two long studs to line it up properly. See the small metal dowel in the locker housing face that sits in a bean shaped hole on the actuator? When re-installing the actuator, u need to put it in with the dowel on the right side of the hole and then turn it ccw which puts tension on the actuator springs. That's what the dowel and bean slot is for. If u dont do this, I've found that the actuator is off a tooth which drains the battery.
Make sense? Or am I completely full of it?
Make sense? Or am I completely full of it?
I can't see it draining the battery. The motor just winds up a clock spring. I always plug in the actuator and let it home itself to the unlocked position and then install it with the rack in the diff slid all the way to to the passenger wheel.
- Thread starter
- #8
Shipped those out on Thursday Rick.
Arrived today. I have two trucks I need to bang out and then I'll get to these. Figure mid around mid week.
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- #10
Thanks Rick!
