Front factory locker issues

[pufft]

I am having a n issue with my front locker. I bought off a lady in atlanta so probably never went into four low if I was guessing. It took a while to get the center diff to start engaging after it freed up then the lockers starting giving me issues. The diff lock light on the dash just blinked when turned on. I had a feeling the lights were not working properly so I jacked it up and turned the switch and yes the rear was locked even though light kept blinking on the other hand the front wasn't. I confused because you can here the locker motor working exact same sound as there rear from tone to length of engaging but doesn't seem to work.? Ive done figure 8s in my hay field for hours and no luck. Any suggestions? Im at a loss.

 

[cahill]

I am assuming that you have the center diff locked first before turning the dial to engage the rear and front lockers? If the center diff isn't locked, the front and rear won't engage.

 

[Rifleman]

Pufft, i had alot of problems with my front locker too. Mine turned out to be a bad wiring harness from the fender down to the locker.
While working to find out what the problem was with mine, i read some other posts about what other members did to get their lockers working. One of the things they said to check was to remove the actuator from the axle, and test it with a 9 volt battery to make sure that the unit turns fully in both directions like it should. You can find the directions on how to do this test in your factory service manual.

Next they said that while you have the actuator removed from the axle, to check that the rack, that the pinion on the actuator slides inside the axle housing, moves back and forth real easy. You see when someone doesn't use the E lock very often, what can happen is crap can build up on the rack, keeping it from moving. What you do to test the rack, is to take a flat blade screw driver, and pry the rack back and forth. In turn, moving that rack moves a fork, attached to it inside the axle housing, that fork slides a sleeve type gear on the axle shaft, that sleeve gear is what engages the locker. One thing to remember before you move that rack, is to mark it first, so you can put it back in the same position it was in before you moved it.

 

[izzyandsue]

Rifleman, do you know how to remove the front actuator? I have looked and tried (FSM and otherwise) to remove it so I can install properly, it is new. But I am afraid to break it. I removed the bolts, the studs, the harness. Should I pry it our hard with a bar or should I twist it first? My front actuator was replaced by mechanic, it always blinked after that even though we confirmed many times that it was locking though. Recently, locking is intermittent so I wanted to remove and installed correctly. Thanks in advance

 

[pufft]

Thanks guys Ill give it a shot.

 

[ReformedJeeper]

Once you remove the 3 actuator bolts the front comes off pretty easily. You may want to tap the actuator with a rubber mallet if its stuck, but it doesnt take that much presure to break free. Everyone says to mark the position, but here is what I found easier:

1) jack up one of the front end of the truck so both front wheels are off the ground.
2) lock the front.
3) rotate one wheel so that you are sure the diff is in the locked position.
4) drop the vehicle back down
5) remove the actuator.
6) do what you have to do to the motor/actuator.
7)Before installing plug the rebuilt/new into the electrical connector.
8) move the diff lock switch from lock to unlock a couple of times to make sure your actuator is working properly. Leave it in the locked position before reinstalling.
9) install the actuator and be one your merry way.

 

[Rifleman]

Issy, since you said that your old actuator is in fact locking the axle, it sound like your problem is with the switch that sends the signal to the dash that turns off that blinking light. Before you spend any time removing a part that is working, i would remove that switch first. I'd bet that once you remove that switch, clean it, reinstall it, I'll bet that solves your blinking light problem. The switch your looking for is next to the actuator, it has 2 wires running to is. This switch has a ball plunger on the bottom of it ,and for some reason that ball starts to stick, not allowing it to close to complete the circuit. Remove that switch, clean it with some contact cleaner while pushing the ball in and out with your thumb. I think that will cure your blinking light problem.

 

[izzyandsue]

Thanks. I did all of that, even installed a new switch, but it made no difference. Now after a weekend of playing in the mud the rear actuator doesn't "whirrrr" anymore when activated. So I got that problem too.

 

[Rifleman]

Izzy, i need to ask, do you drive your truck in water, to the point were the water is deep enough to submerge your actuators? If you do you may have a problem with water getting inside your actuators. You see these actuators are not very water proof, plus the vent hose for them doesn't go very high. So i think we need to check for other problems. The sad thing is, Toyota looks at these actuators as a replaceable, not repairable unit, so there is very little info on them in our service manual other then how to properly remove and install them and a few other tests.

Now if you do have water and rust inside your actuator there is a really good thread here on mud on how to rebuild your unit. Since you already have a new unit for the front that will save you some time, if in fact your unit has rust damage. If your going to play in water you need to spent some time making sure that water doesn't get in again. After looking at this thread you'll understand how important it is to make sure you keep water out of your 600 dollar actuators. Here's a link to that thread. locker actuator rebuild

 

[lockd80]

FYI I had some "professional" work on my front diff once and he did not reassemble the actuator correctly. I could hear the actuator working but the diff was not locking. When I pulled the actuator off I found that he did not index the rack to the actuator correctly causing it to not engage. I cleaned everything up and reinstalled clocking per the FSM and it all works fine now.

 

[izzyandsue]

Thanks, yes water was involved. Front actuator gets power for sure, I can hear it. Rear will have to check all connections. I kept the old front to rebuild some day, can practice on that one then remove and fix the rear if that's the case, good points.

And I suspect he pro tech work installing the new front one didn't follow the FSM, they just bolted it up and that's why it locks most of the time, not all the time. Just need a dry day to get under there and follow all the great advise you gents have

 

[canman]

Several weeks back, a buddy's rear actuator stopped working while out on a trail run. It ended up staying looked. Later, a few of us had a look and it was full of water. We cleaned it up, and it now works great, but for those that live in the rust belt, I would be taking them out and checking them as the white metal tends to corrode where it comes into contact with the steel cap.

 

[pufft]

Sorry guys been working hard at the firehouse. Brushfire season. Thank you guys with all the help. I think half the reason 80s are so cool is the people that own them. Thanks for all your help Ill try to start working on it as soon as we see some rain!

 

[izzyandsue]

Thank you guys for all the help too, I finally got to do this, as my rear locker also died. That was an easy replacement as per FSM. The front as still not locking even though the actuator is new. Followed your instructions with a couple of twists.

1. Lifted front and rear so wheels are off the ground, locked all around and rotate wheels to ensure lock
2. My front wouldn't lock, so I removed front locker as mentioned above, some wiggle and soft taps with rubber mallet and it came out.
3. Now, need to move the rack to the left as far as it goes, for that you have to push it with screw driver while rotating front wheel. A helper would have been useful... With some leverage rack will slide
4. 9 volt battery to rotate locker gear. After battery is connected, touch the lad a second at a time, it moves quicker than I thought. Line it up as per FSM
5. Now install as per FSM and test a couple of times. Success!

You can see the Rack, it is not locked yet

Screw driver while spinning a front wheel, just a little bit, gets the rack to move and lock. The stud provided the small leverage needed.

Now the rack is on locked position, the right most tooth is on the center of the actuator hole

This is the gear needing alignment, FSM shows the target

I found it easier to connect my leads to the switch plug first, then touch the battery leads for a second and observe the direction of travel. Than reverse them as needed. Took me 3 times to line up.

 

[Beej]

These pictures are extremely helpful.

 

[ccslider]

Sometimes.es I find that turning the wheel to the left will help engage the front locker.

Did you try doing figure 8's in loose gravel? Don't do it on a hard surface like pavepavement.