I had a bad roaring/ grinding coming from the drive train the other day. Took it to my mechanic who is locally known to be the expert in Cruisers. He said I need to replace the front differential. Quoted me $4600 total. He also he doesn't know anyone around that rebuild differentials anymore. I am going to fix it, because the truck is otherwise in perfect shape. The shop told me there is a lot of slop in the front driveshaft, and there are metal shavings coming out of it. Does anyone know if I can pull the front driveshaft and limp alonf for a bit before spending that kind of money? Seems to me that I'd need to lock the center differential in order to drive it that way.
Front Differential Trashed?
- Thread starter michaelj
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You can “bypass” the front diff by 1) removing the front driveshaft, 2) locking the center diff, and 3) removing the drive flanges from the front hubs. But removing the drive flanges will expose your wheel bearings to the elements. You can machine the splines from the flanges and re-install them to seal the system back up.
- Thread starter
- #3
I don't doubt you at all, but why do the drive flanges have to be removed?
We stock parts to rebuild it, you could send to us, or we can sell complete 3rd members. Also if you email in to info@justdifferentials.com we could set you up with someone in your area to save some $$
If you don't remove the flanges, the front wheels will turn the differential and it would probably still make the noise.
Not to doubt your mechanic but a stripped out flange could cause the same symptoms and it's common enough to have a few metal filings on the drain plug in the differential. Did he find chunks of gears? Did he pull the dust caps and inspect the flanges/snap rings? Can you give more information? The front differentials are kind of hard to break without some serious wheeling and bouncing the front wheels.
Chris
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the heads up. I will reach out to you all.
- Thread starter
- #7
I am headed that way in a bit. I will ask about the dust caps and flanges/ snap rings. Since I have owned the truck, I have done a bit of offroad trail riding. But no wheeling. Definitely no wheel bouncing.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So at this point what are your plans with the truck? Any chance you plan to do any upgrades, more serious wheeling, etc. in the future? Reason for asking as this may be the time to throw in a locker in the front as the front diff is known as a weak point in these trucks. While that will end up adding a decent amount of cost, that really all depends on what you plan to do with the truck going forward.
Since you have a '00 model year, I think you are still with the early model 100s (98-02) that originally came with a 2 pinion (??) front diff whereas the older (03-07) came with a 4-pinion which was quite a bit stronger. May be worthwhile to source a good used 3rd from someone like @TRAIL TAILOR or @orangefj45 or one of the other multiple vendors on here.
Since you have a '00 model year, I think you are still with the early model 100s (98-02) that originally came with a 2 pinion (??) front diff whereas the older (03-07) came with a 4-pinion which was quite a bit stronger. May be worthwhile to source a good used 3rd from someone like @TRAIL TAILOR or @orangefj45 or one of the other multiple vendors on here.
Maybe similar to what happened to me?
forum.ih8mud.com
I went with TJM locker from @justdifferentials . They sent me the built diff, I returned the core, all outlined in the above thread. I rebuilt the whole front driveline which was a great experience for me, definitely my biggest auto project to that point. Saved some money, gained confidence wrenching, and added a locker.
Dying front diff in my 2006?
forum.ih8mud.com
I went with TJM locker from @justdifferentials . They sent me the built diff, I returned the core, all outlined in the above thread. I rebuilt the whole front driveline which was a great experience for me, definitely my biggest auto project to that point. Saved some money, gained confidence wrenching, and added a locker.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
If my front diff were ever to take a dump in my 98 I would be upgrading to a TJM or Harrop e-locker first thing. Expensive investment but it would be well worth it towards the longevity of the rig.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Before you replace the diff I'd inspect the CV ends. Waaaay more reports of the CV slipping in the flange due to the c-clip falling off than there are of diffs that just up and break. And if that's the cause, I'd be skeptical of your shop.
What he said above! Super common to have play between the drive flanges and the axles. If it gets bad enough or the snap ring pops off and the axle retracts then youll have a terrible grinding noise on that side. Was the noise specific to a side? Not saying you didnt grenade your front diff, but checking this could save you alot of money. Hope and check the cheaper fixes first. Also, is he buying a brand new diff? You can get new gears, a rebuild kit, and a locker, installed for 3k. 4,800 seems steep to me..
