There are a few threads here that have great info, but I hadn't seen a video. Well, here ya go. Huge thanks to the folks that had already pioneered this and documented it before me including, but not limited to: @nissanh @jmr302 and of course, "Doctor 100 Series" @2001LC
My thoughts after completing this job:
1. Thunk is minimized, but not gone. I don't notice the weird thud while driving anymore, but D to R and back to D still gives me a good thunk. I need to continue investigating that. I'll be getting new CVs and flanges next as the CVs are leaking anyways. My poor wallet...
2. The rear lower bushing is probably fine in your car. Mine was nearly perfect. It was a waste of time, I believe. Save yourself the time and money, skip it unless you see yours is actually torn.
3. The upper stoppers and side arm with bushing would be REALLY easy and partially effective. The front lower bushing is the hardest to remove and naturally, the most likely to be your problem. If you don't have air tools or an entire day to spend chiseling it out by hand though, maybe try the upper stoppers and the side arm with bushing first. That would cost ~$190 total and probably offer most the benefit of doing all of them and you could do it all in an hour or less in your driveway.
4. If you do the front lower bushing, be aware you need to get alignment PERFECT when reinstalling that bushing. I fought that for a while before finally getting it. Once it starts straight it's easy. Getting it started straight is tough.
Repeat part and tool info here that's already in other threads, but might as well post here as well:
Amazon links (disclaimer: buying through these links helps fund YotaMD)
- Parts -
Arm bushing: Robot Check
Front lower: Toyota 41651-60010
Front upper stopper: Toyota 41653-60010; Febest option: Robot Check
Rear lower: Robot Check
Rear upper stopper: Toyota 41653-60020; Febest option: Robot Check
Optional complete arms with bushings:
Rear arm: 52380-60030
Side arm: 52380-60040
- Tools -
Ball Joint Service Tool: Robot Check
My thoughts after completing this job:
1. Thunk is minimized, but not gone. I don't notice the weird thud while driving anymore, but D to R and back to D still gives me a good thunk. I need to continue investigating that. I'll be getting new CVs and flanges next as the CVs are leaking anyways. My poor wallet...
2. The rear lower bushing is probably fine in your car. Mine was nearly perfect. It was a waste of time, I believe. Save yourself the time and money, skip it unless you see yours is actually torn.
3. The upper stoppers and side arm with bushing would be REALLY easy and partially effective. The front lower bushing is the hardest to remove and naturally, the most likely to be your problem. If you don't have air tools or an entire day to spend chiseling it out by hand though, maybe try the upper stoppers and the side arm with bushing first. That would cost ~$190 total and probably offer most the benefit of doing all of them and you could do it all in an hour or less in your driveway.
4. If you do the front lower bushing, be aware you need to get alignment PERFECT when reinstalling that bushing. I fought that for a while before finally getting it. Once it starts straight it's easy. Getting it started straight is tough.
Repeat part and tool info here that's already in other threads, but might as well post here as well:
Amazon links (disclaimer: buying through these links helps fund YotaMD)
- Parts -
Arm bushing: Robot Check
Front lower: Toyota 41651-60010
Front upper stopper: Toyota 41653-60010; Febest option: Robot Check
Rear lower: Robot Check
Rear upper stopper: Toyota 41653-60020; Febest option: Robot Check
Optional complete arms with bushings:
Rear arm: 52380-60030
Side arm: 52380-60040
- Tools -
Ball Joint Service Tool: Robot Check
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