Front Brake Question. Help needed! (1 Viewer)

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Nov 3, 2004
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Charleston, SC
Just got my cruiser back from my girlfriend and my brakes are squealing horrible. My local Toyota place cant get the pads till Tuesday and I only have tonight to work on the cruiser. So I go to NAPA and get part #AE-7298B which were the only ones they had in stock. I print out my electonic FSM and head outside to do the work. About 10 min after I get the wheel off a cop comes buy harassing me because he thinks im working on my car on the street(only place I can do it) :doh: . I tell him in just changing a flat and he goes away. Pull the front pads loose which were really bad following the FSM procedure. As I go to put new pads in there is no way they are going to fit with the shims and anti-squeal pads. Ive depressed the caliper as far as it will go and taken fluid out of the resovior. My rotors are not warped and I have where they were replace only 10,500 miles ago. Is there another secret? Im positive I am doing this right. The wear indicators are pointing up on both inboard and outboard side just like the old pads. Should I flip them? Ive even tried reusing the old shims as NAPA's shims have a glue backing which I thought might be the problem. Any ideas Ive gotta get this done by noon tommorow and want to attack it with a solution when I start tommorow. Thanks in advance :cheers:
 
Are you compressing one side of the caliper at a time and then inserting the pads or have you got both pads out at the same time?

Are the new pads the same surface area as the ones that came out? If they are larger they are probably for a 100.

Will they go in without the shims?
 
Dan makes a good point about the pistons: if you just press in the inboard piston, then the outboard (or visa versa), you may not have noticed that the one you pressed in first has moved back out due to the pressure you applied on the other one. You need to either put something in place of the pad, or hold one piston while you push on the other.
 
They appear to be the same surface area as the older pads that came out...they seem thick though (but I have not seen new OEM pads). I left the inboard pad in while I compresssed the outboard one. I could get this pad in with the shims but there was no clearance between the pad and the rotor. I could then not get the other pad in. It looks like both might fit if I leave out the anti squeal pads and reuse the old shims. It looks like the adhesive on the new shims is making it about twice as thick as the old ones.
 
I don't remember what the outcome was, but there was a thread within the last week, maybe two, where a Cruiser was having the same issue. I didn't catch the end of the thread.

Try searching but looking at the most recent threads, as I'm sure there are hundreds total.

Good Luck, and ahemm........Napa? :doh:

:D
:flipoff2:
 
The over-all thickness of a new stock pad, including the backing plate, is about 14mm. The friction material is about 9mm.


The 100 pad is about 16mm thick, including backing plate.

D-
 
I think some of those aftermarket pads with the "built-in" shims don't need to use the OEM shims. That may be your problem.
 
I remember the thread I think you are talking about but I think it was using 100 series pads. NAPA was the only parts store out of the 5 I went to that stocked the pads.
 
Checked the pad thickness and it appears to be in the middle at 15mm for overall thickness...these pads were supplied with shims so I think they are not built in. Should I just try leaving out the anti squeal pads. Will there be any ill consequences? Can I reused my old shims since they have the litte lip that goes over the pad and my new ones dont.
 
You have to run without shims when runnung the 100 pads so I don't think you will have a functional problem. Depending on what they picked for friction material you could have some noise.


D-
 
If I leave out the shims should I leave out the anti squeal pads as well? Or leave the anti squeal pads on and shims off? Should I still apply the disc brake quiet grease stuff to the back of the pad?
 
It I were you I would use the new pads with the original shims, provided the shims are OEM and will fit on the new pads. Otherwise I would install the pads-only and dry. I would then get OEM pads and do it right in the near future.


D-
 
Thanks for the help Cdan ....I will try it tommorow when its light out again...I also located a set of stock pads at the other dealership thats only about 25-30 miles from me so Im going to make my girlfriend drive me over there in her car bright and early to pick up some OEM pads(since shes been driving my car and did not tell me about the brakes squealing...I guess I must have done too good of a job with the sound deadening materials)....The other toyota dealer told me nobody would stock these pads which did not sound right to me...
 
If they are just squealing a bit, and not grinding, can't ya just wait a few days and have em shipped to you? I'd venture a guess that smart shopper price+ shipping is much cheaper than all that drive time and gas + retail.....

Been meaning to ask about the avatar......
 
Also forgot to ask if it is normal to have to pump your brakes to get pedal pressure back up....after I put the old pads back in and wheels on I went to move my car and the pedal went really low...I pumped it a few time and it came began acting normal....Is this normal due to removing the resovior cap or am I going to have to bleed the brakes now?
 
Cruisin...the squealing is bad and when i pulled the old pads one of the indicator tabs was broken...she has driven about 2500-3000 miles because of her job in my truck so I have no idea how long the pads have needed replacing....I would rather not risk messing up the rotors...plus it will be another 2 weeks (and prob 1500 miles since she has to use it again) before I have time to do it agian thanks to school... The dealer told me $56 for the pads so thats not too bad....might try to get a TLCA discount too....and the avatar is a pic that a friend emailed me of a bad 90's family glamour shot.
 
WOW I don't blame you...not trying to get off in your business, either, just wondering out loud.

I think I am going to try and do the 100 series pads sometime soon.....

LOL on the avatar, just didn't jive with a med school student, but ya never know, looks like 1982, so well....
 
Cruisin...didnt mean to come off sounding like a jerk...I know i did not say all that up top about the pads being that worn....any other time I would wait and order from CDAN as he has saved me tons of cash in the past(since my dog has an appetite for key fobs.)....I wanted the 100 pads but did not think i could go that route since my rotors (except for 1 set of pads) are fairly new it will be a long time off befor i have to replace them with new ones...I also would have to pay someone to do the new rotors for me since I cant pull all that off on the street...The brakes I decided to risk doing myself since I thought they would be a 15min ordeal per side...but it did not turn out that way
 
I didn't think that, I was afraid I was sounding like I was second guessing you.

Sounds like the keyfob thing is a good story. Sounds like a hostile place if cops harass you for a 15 min brake job, I guess a few bad apples somewhere spoiled it for the rest. Good luck w/ the job...
 
Charleston is great I just live downtown where a lot of tourist visit and have to park on the street (parallel parked)...they dont like it if you have your wheels off and parts laying out...only have about a little room to work before I am really out in the road.....I think I have already madethe police that work around my street a little mad a while back when i did the stereo install ...LOL...I know im going to get harassed bad when I do the ARB bumper....and Im not even gonna risk the OME....Im gonna offer up free beer and pizza for the use of someones garage or driveway and help
 

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