Front brake job--Need pads, rotors and....what else?

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J

JB740i

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Sep 3, 2007
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Citrus Springs, FL
Didn't see in the faq or a search what parts I need for a front brake job. My brother is adoping a kid maybe or at least being a foster parent and doesn't have the $600 for a front brake job. I've done brakes on my '76 FJ40, a 2000 740i and an F150 but they didn't really require much in the way or gaskets or seals.

Searching said I need gaskets, seals, and whatever else. Can someone give me part numbers or point me to a thread that I missed so I can help him out? Would they be available at Napa?

Also, I think I saw a 54mm is required? I think the FJ took a 46 which .....nevermind it was a 54 for the FJ too.
 
repack your front hubs while you have it apart.


ya, you need that 54mm, other then that i have nothing else to add, since im a pus and let the dealership deal with the front rotors.
 
Search, there's some good info on here for changing rotors. Give yourself plenty of time also. My first time on the 100 doing all 4 rotors took me over 5 hours. I could do it a lot faster now probably though. 4 hours for the fronts and about an hour for the rears.
 
Most posts were about which brake pads to buy. But hey, I'll try it again.

kyoso23 said:
Search, there's some good info on here for changing rotors. Give yourself plenty of time also. My first time on the 100 doing all 4 rotors took me over 5 hours. I could do it a lot faster now probably though. 4 hours for the fronts and about an hour for the rears.
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Does it really need new rotors? If not, then get a set of OEM pads for $70?? and put them in, a real easy job, no removing anything except a couple of clips.
 
100 TD said:
Does it really need new rotors? If not, then get a set of OEM pads for $70?? and put them in, a real easy job, no removing anything except a couple of clips.
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The repair shop told him it was metal on metal so I think it's gonna need the rotors. Has a bit of a procrastination issue so there's not much chance he's wanting em done before it squeels like a banshee.
 
The Stoptech website has a good set of instructions(with pictures) for the front pads and rotors for the LC/LX. they are instructions for replacing with their Big Brake, but the conventions are the same for removal and replacement of stock rotors and pads. I used Bembo rotors and OEM pads. Front took 4-5 hours but it was the 1st time I did front rotors on a 4WD. Be sure to follow the torquing requirement on the bearings. (there are probably some threads on the sequence for inner bearings somewhere on this forum). Rears are much easier. Probably only took 1.5 hrs. I used Brembo rotors and OEM pads on the rear also. I bought the pads from Gulf states toyota (Toyota Parts, Genuine Toyota Parts, Toyota Accessories, TRD Performance Parts, Houston Toyota Dealer, Champion Toyota Gulf Freeway, Houston Texas) out of Houston for about $50 to $60. Very fast delivery. The 54mm socket and a torque wrench is required for the front. I got the Brembo rotors from The Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels for about $60 each. Just used standard rotors-no slot or drill. I didn't do anything special for bedding the pads. Just normal driving. All the elaborate hard stop bedding is primarily for performance brakes.
 
100 TD said:
Does it really need new rotors? If not, then get a set of OEM pads for $70?? and put them in, a real easy job, no removing anything except a couple of clips.
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Theoretically it is. The PO of my vehicle had the dealer do all the service, and they sprayed some kind of yellow adhesive to the shims/pads so they were all stuck together as one unit. I had to remove the caliper to get the old pads out since the outer shim has those clips that snap into the hollow backs of the pistons.

Get OEM bearing seals, flange gaskets, and lock washers. Should run around $54 for both sides.
 
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Local dealer couldn't tell me anything so he faxed me the diagram. Can someone point out what parts I should order from him?
 
How can i check the bearing preload? What tool should i get?
 
Just a personal comment from my experience: DO NOT buy SP slotted rotors and corresponding SP "performance" pads spec'd for an LC/LX 100. Until the pads reach operating temperature, you'll swear you're not going to be able to stop (maybe a little exaggeration there, but I can tell you they're a little scary first thing in the morning - especially on cold days.) When they DO get warm enough to where they'll stop, the vibration from the slots is very irritating.

Again, these are just comments from my past experience with this setup. Your (and others) results may vary....................I just HATED them!
 
Depending on the miles and the corrosion you might want to order new shims, pins and little springs that keep the pins in. I'm at 115K and the road salt in Boston had done a number on those items. I got those from the local dealer, and ordered slotted rotors for front and rear from Man-a-fre. I ended up having the dealer pack the bearings and change out the front rotors. Just didn't have the time or garage space this winter to tackle it. We have an old one car garage that the wife's maxima just squeezes into, no working room. It was $400 for labor.
 
Whatever you do when replacing the rotor, or repack bearings: Do NOT skip changing the hub inner seal. It's not the cheapest part, but it will start leaking grease which will deposit on the inside (backside) of your rotor, where it is difficult to spot.
 
Just some info on possible brake noise. Be sure that you put all the hardware back in. I've had this little rattle that was driving me nuts and I found that the previous owners shop cheaped out and left some shims out. This is all I found in the caliper when I pulled them out.
brakeshims 002lr.webp
The factory shims require that you remove the caliper to install the pads in them so tabs can be inserted into the pistons. This keeps the pads from shifting and creating a clicking noise. They are a puzzle, but after you install everything, they are nice and quiet.
brakeshims 001lr.webp

Also, 2000 and up have a "W" clip that set tension on the pads. These are shown "loose" and have to have the ends tucked into the holes at the top of the pads.
brakeshims 010lr.webp
brakeshims 001lr.webp
brakeshims 002lr.webp
brakeshims 010lr.webp
 
dnp said:
Just a personal comment from my experience: DO NOT buy SP slotted rotors and corresponding SP "performance" pads spec'd for an LC/LX 100. Until the pads reach operating temperature, you'll swear you're not going to be able to stop (maybe a little exaggeration there, but I can tell you they're a little scary first thing in the morning - especially on cold days.) When they DO get warm enough to where they'll stop, the vibration from the slots is very irritating.

Again, these are just comments from my past experience with this setup. Your (and others) results may vary....................I just HATED them!
Click to expand...

I run the DBA Series 4000 Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors on my 99 100 series and they will put you through the windshield if i want them to! :D

No vibrations, no weird cold weather behavior, i love em!

We also ran the same rotors on our race truck and they performed flawlessly!

IMG_0450_bajaoverlandsite.jpg
 
campfire - good pics... thanks for taking time to post these
 
Pads worn on an angle

Just got my truck inspected from the dealer, passed but (why is there always a but):doh: needs pads soon, they said the inner pad is worn on an angle. Didn't get a chance to look at it yet, but could this mean that one of the pistons in the caliper is not functioning correctly? Any thoughts? jeff
 
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