Front Axle Spindle Problem?

[wxm]

Hi,

I am doing the front axle knuckle rebuild for my 96 LX as the 93K miles maintenance. Just took the driver side off. While cleaning up, I noticed the spindle has some marks ( see picture below, they are quite minor, but if you run the finger across, you can feel the marks). Recall the front end DS had some noise after the suspension work at the Lexus dealer two years ago, sent the truck back a couple of time, and finally they narrowed down to the DS side wheel bearing problem. They replaced the bearing and fixed the noise. Now I see the damage. But I incline to put everything back together and call it done, since there was no noise when I took it apart. Guess I just have to set the preload slightly higher. (Recall Beno suggested for 15 lb anyway.) What do you guys think? Do I need a new spindle? (Not sure they even sell the spindle separately.)

Thanks.

 

[RedTacoma]

Quick question. Are you replacing bearings?

 

[IdahoDoug]

Visually, it doesn't look like a lot of material is missing, but the rust pattern indicates the bearings have been troubled in the past. I'd use a rust remover like naval jelly or similar to get all the rust off you can and then put it back together. Don't use abrasives like a file or anything as you'll be removing metal which will make the fit of the bearings looser. If the truck is used for anything besides a normal life of road use and the odd weekend trail use, then I'd consider repacking sooner than the 30k interval to stay atop it. Otherwise, don't sweat it. Use quality grease vs everyday stuff.

DougM

 

[wxm]

Quick question. Are you replacing bearings?

Definitely the knuckle bearings. They are cheap and I don't intend to open the knuckle up for another 90K miles. As of the wheel bearings, I am still debating, they are only two year old and still in good shape...

 

[wxm]

Visually, it doesn't look like a lot of material is missing, but the rust pattern indicates the bearings have been troubled in the past. I'd use a rust remover like naval jelly or similar to get all the rust off you can and then put it back together. Don't use abrasives like a file or anything as you'll be removing metal which will make the fit of the bearings looser. If the truck is used for anything besides a normal life of road use and the odd weekend trail use, then I'd consider repacking sooner than the 30k interval to stay atop it. Otherwise, don't sweat it. Use quality grease vs everyday stuff.

DougM

Thanks Doug. I will do that.

 

[IdahoDoug]

To clarify, the bearings that were already replaced were the ones in trouble/damaged. Unless the ones you're now cleaning and repacking show rust damage? I assumed not, but wanted to clarify.

DougM

 

[wxm]

To clarify, the bearings that were already replaced were the ones in trouble/damaged. Unless the ones you're now cleaning and repacking show rust damage? I assumed not, but wanted to clarify.

DougM

That's correct. The bad bearings were replaced two years ago. At my request, the dealer saved the old bearings but I did not see the races. Could they only replace the bearing not the races? Anyway, I might as well replace both wheel bearings and races, save the current ones for spare.

 

[OGBeno]

Take either a die grinder with some scotch brite pads or use scotch brite with the hand and that should take away that surface rust.

I do think a slightly higher preload is called for in this application and have done my axle jobs with preloads in the the 12-17 ft. lb range.

A slightly higher preload was also recommended to me by a LC mechanic I trust very much as well as by an A & P who does wheel swaps on Delta aircraft pretty regularly and says that he has also gone with a slightly higher preload range.

Cheers.