Front axle and brake concern

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I use Mobil1 synthetic grease and I also got my Timken bearings from autozone.
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The Green Grease from Autozone is pretty good stuff.:idea:
 
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So I removed the grease cap and 6 nuts and washers from the hub. But how do you get the flange off? I cant budge it. Yes I removed the snap ring.
 
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Ok so I got it. Cone washers. I didnt understand what that was until tapping on it with a hammer and one flew out and hit me in the n*ts then went right down the hole in the drain pan. So I got it down to the big 54mm nut. Picking up a 2 1/8 inch on tuesday from my dad. I think since I got it this far I might just do the whole axle rebuild.
 
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Good luck, let us know what you find.:beer:
 
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One more thing what kind of grease should I use on the wheel bearings?

X2 on the Mobil 1 grease, or any decent quality grease with a wheel bearing rating of "GC" (not hard to find). I usually use synthetics if I have a choice, but there are some great conventional choices out there too.
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So I pulled the hub and rotor off today. And I'm missing something. I dont know how much this matters but according to the exploded view of the hub there is supposed to be a 43510D ring with a grove then 43521 54mm nut then 43523 star then another 43521 54mm nut. I dont have the 43510D ring. It wasnt installed. On top of that I dont know what the torq is supposed to be on those 54mm nuts. But I dont think that the weight of the breaker bar should spin them off, or am I wrong.
 
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You are missing the thrush washer you need that
How do the bearings and spindle look
They should not be to hard to take off if that is what you are asking
I dont remember off hand the torque spec for them
I think that I tighten the inside nut to 10-15 ft lbs and the outer nut to 45 ft lbs IIRC
Someone will confirm
 
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The bearings seemed to look fine no visual damage. They all spun none were missing. I tossed them. Since I have new ones I thought there is no way i took all this apart to put them back in. The 43510A seal I guess was really warped. I dont know if that is common.
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The PO had most likely been in the axle before. The 6 12mm nuts that hold the hub on there was one that was 1/2. It is the one that is closest to the camara in this pic.
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According to the FSM there is supposed to be a outer race on each side of the hub. Those werent there either. It was the oil seal that was warped. The bolt that goes through the brake line into the caliper is suposed to have a gasket on each side of it. Not there. Either one.
 
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I think it's safe to say it's had a hack job in the past. Good thing you got in there to clean it up.
 
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You mean to say that the outer bearing had no race, how the hell did it stay together!:doh:
 
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I cant seem to be able to get the steering knuckle off of the knuckle arm. I think it has more of the cone washers. Any good ways to get these off.
 
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Do you have a pic of the inside of the brake rotor? It may need to be cleaned up/slightly resurfaced if it has had oil/grease on it.

If you had missing bearing races, that probably explains why the the seal was not holding lube in. I would take a close look at the spindle and see if theres any damage.

I would be interested to see a close up pic of the spindle after cleaning as well, if possible.

Wow, sounds like the PO or their mechanic was really a moron... :eek:
 

powderpig

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The spindle looks to have some damage where the Race of the inner bearing rides on the shoulder. It looks like the bearing race was spinning on the spindle. I also looks like the grease has been pukeing out he wheel seal.
 
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Well I finally got everything apart. Lots of rust on the PS. Would it be ok to us my dremmel and a metal polish disk for it to get rid of the rust?
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I would use some really fine wet/dry sandpaper and do it by hand. 400 grit or higher should be fine. Then maybe you could finish up with a scotch brite pad or something. The goal would be to avoid making any gouges in the ball.
 
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So on Sunday I am going to be cleaning everything. I should get the rebuild kit maybe on Monday. Sunday I also plan on putting the new wheel bearing and putting the hub back on the new rotors. The thing that sucks about this whole thing is time. This whole process is like a 2 day job tops, but because I never have any time to work on it it will end up being a week and a half.
 

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