JDM Journeys
Moderator
I was asked about this in the 70 series section, but figured it'd be more useful here.
All the mitsu diesels have removeable frost plugs all around the block. Temro/Philips and others recommend using the frost plug that is under the turbo, behind the oil filter, in every case. I think they have a sick sense of humour, since it is the absolute worst place to access. I found it slightly easier with the filter off. Slightly.
So for the 2.8 and the 3.2 (the direct injection version, which uses a similar block, different head) it should be fitted out with 40mm freeze plugs. (please confirm this on your own application before you knock the bugger out and realize you have the wrong one). The correct unit should be a 400 watt 3100049 Zerostart. Again, do your due diligence. I am 4 years on from doing this install, and the details are fuzzy. There is a recommended orientation as well, but that should be obvious when you put it in and rotate it. (sorry, can't find a pic in situ). Picture a metal plug thingy, with a cord plugged into the back of it. Real helpful wasn't it?
Getting the OEM plug out is the biggest problem with this install, and if you happen to knock the plug INTO the block, your world is reduced to magnets, vice grips, mirrors, and pain.
To avoid such horrendous possibilities, I've always drilled a hole first (also allows the coolant to drain somewhat too, usually into your eyes). I leave a tapping screw in there (in the plug, not in my eye) and attach a piece of wire or string to it. Then begin tapping the plug, preferably on one side to rotate it in its hole. Your string is there just in case the unthinkable happens. LOL. Then yank it out with a vice grip, and catch the little bit of coolant that weeps out. Installing the new one is an exercise in caution. You're tightening a butterfly nut agains the back of the hole in the block, and straightening it out as you tighten. Too tight and it breaks and coolant leaks out. Too loose and coolant leaks out. I've seen folks use silicone on the o-ring, and then some not. I've always just lubed it with coolant and called it good. Your call.
If this sounds like a drag... Lower rad hose heaters work very well too.
I've even had good luck with oil pan heaters. The ultimate cold weather combo is an oil pan pad, and a frost plug heater, used in tandem. If I had another automatic trans, I'd probably get a pad heater for it too...
Hope this helps someone?
All the mitsu diesels have removeable frost plugs all around the block. Temro/Philips and others recommend using the frost plug that is under the turbo, behind the oil filter, in every case. I think they have a sick sense of humour, since it is the absolute worst place to access. I found it slightly easier with the filter off. Slightly.
So for the 2.8 and the 3.2 (the direct injection version, which uses a similar block, different head) it should be fitted out with 40mm freeze plugs. (please confirm this on your own application before you knock the bugger out and realize you have the wrong one). The correct unit should be a 400 watt 3100049 Zerostart. Again, do your due diligence. I am 4 years on from doing this install, and the details are fuzzy. There is a recommended orientation as well, but that should be obvious when you put it in and rotate it. (sorry, can't find a pic in situ). Picture a metal plug thingy, with a cord plugged into the back of it. Real helpful wasn't it?
To avoid such horrendous possibilities, I've always drilled a hole first (also allows the coolant to drain somewhat too, usually into your eyes). I leave a tapping screw in there (in the plug, not in my eye) and attach a piece of wire or string to it. Then begin tapping the plug, preferably on one side to rotate it in its hole. Your string is there just in case the unthinkable happens. LOL. Then yank it out with a vice grip, and catch the little bit of coolant that weeps out. Installing the new one is an exercise in caution. You're tightening a butterfly nut agains the back of the hole in the block, and straightening it out as you tighten. Too tight and it breaks and coolant leaks out. Too loose and coolant leaks out. I've seen folks use silicone on the o-ring, and then some not. I've always just lubed it with coolant and called it good. Your call.
If this sounds like a drag... Lower rad hose heaters work very well too.
I've even had good luck with oil pan heaters. The ultimate cold weather combo is an oil pan pad, and a frost plug heater, used in tandem. If I had another automatic trans, I'd probably get a pad heater for it too...
Hope this helps someone?