Frame Strengthening

Discussion in 'HardCore Corner' started by warpdriv, Oct 30, 2005.

  1. warpdriv

    warpdriv

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    What is everyone doing to take out flex in the frame?

    One thing I did, I moved my cross over back about a foot to put my 700R4/np203/tlc3sp in. It still flexed that is striped out the 4 bolts between my 700R4 and np203.

    So I took a 6" wide 1/4" thick plate and welded to accross my frame under my bib and rebuilt my tranny crossover to bolt to the other side.

    She is holding together so far.
     
  2. coolcruiserfj40

    coolcruiserfj40

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    i think it was in the rascal build that just welding a flat piece is bad and will cause damage. leme go see what i can find
     
  3. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    I have welded and seen a BUNCH of vertical welds on a cruiser frame. The only ones I have seen fail were butt welds tying two pieces of frame together.

    HOWEVER, it is stronger and a better idea if you can make angles in the "patch plate"



    Removing frame flex is easy. Weld the 2 pieces of frame rail together.
     
  4. OnTheSpot

    OnTheSpot

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    tie you cage into the frame as well. Assuming you have some triangulation in your cage so it doesn't flex as well.
     
  5. wngrog

    wngrog SILVER Star

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    That is the best way.
     
  6. Eskimo

    Eskimo SILVER Star

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    I tied my cage into the frame in multiple areas, and also added a crossmember behind the t-case. But it's mainly the cage.

    When I get it twisted up, I don't get *any* of the pops and creaks I used to from the frame.
     
  7. dacicci

    dacicci

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    i plated most of the inside of frame when i streched mine a foot cutting at angle is way to go when streching. cage to frame will help the flexing. i plated frame were it was streched on both sides with angles too and drilled hole to plug weld. maces idea is your best bet.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2005
  8. gunmetalcruz

    gunmetalcruz

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    Mines plated from the front rear spring hanger to the the front of the rear. Also a oil pan tube that goes from motor mount to motor mount. Also doubles for runnng the winch rope over to run it down to the housing to cinch the front down. Front clip also ties into the front face,engine roll cage ties all that together, then the hood tubes were the apron used to be ties to the a-pillar . Rockers tied to frame,cage to frame , the only thing I wish i had was a tube from the dash tube down to the frame. The winshield bars help but they aren't supported. I'm not a fan off bushing mounting anything. Let the suspension do it job. The only issue I had with plating was when i clocked the atlas flat it was really close to touching on the drivers rail. Had to shift the motor a hair. One more cross member for the skid plate and traction link mount. That's about it.
     
  9. andrewfarmer

    andrewfarmer

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    I'm now confused. Mines plated from the front rear spring hanger to the front crossmember (below the rad), but it's all factory.
    Did you guys get lightweight chassis in the US???

    and why stop chassis flex? it gives more articulation...
     
  10. warpdriv

    warpdriv

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    Here is a couple of pics before an after. What you can not see on the after is the weld holding the plate on running with the frame (horizontaly).
    before.jpg after.jpg
     
  11. Medusa

    Medusa

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    IMO, a lot of the frame flex comes from the rear of the frame where it is not boxed. On my current FJ45 project I have paid a lot of attention to strengthening the frame. That has included boxing all of the rear:

    [​IMG]

    Other pics of the frame strengthening phas of this project are HERE
     
  12. Eskimo

    Eskimo SILVER Star

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    Because it's hard to mount shocks to dampen chassis movement as opposed to axle movement.. :flipoff2:
     
  13. green_machine

    green_machine

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    I agree. When I moved from rovers to toys I was amazed at the rear section of the 80/60, and your 45 as well. I spent weeks trying to get the flex out of the bumper/tire carrier that I tied into the frame (no bolts). Turned out it was the frame flexing!
     
  14. warpdriv

    warpdriv

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    Good advice Mark. Time to do some more weld'n...
     
  15. Josie'sLandCruiser

    Josie'sLandCruiser Stop calling it a "FJ."

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    Hi All:

    Humm . . . . . . interesting thread!

    When a friend repaired the rusted-out rear frame on my FJ40 he boxed it and re-inforced it. Now I think I should have the front frame boxed as well; perhaps that would eliminate the frame flex that allows the fan to scrape the radiator on really twisty trail sections!

    Regards,

    Alan
    Seattle
     
  16. lowtideride

    lowtideride

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    Josie...it might be a motor mount and not frame flex.
     
  17. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    Very nice work, Jack. Come to Boise and do my frame por favor.
     
  18. Eric Winkworth

    Eric Winkworth

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    nice looking frame man congrats!

    cheers
     
  19. Rascal

    Rascal SILVER Star

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    I made a lot of changes to Rasal during this last build. Two new cross members. Reparied some bootie frame work. Added a 2+ foot section of 3/8 6161 Aluminum for a skid plate. And changed the rear suspension to a 4 link with coil overs. When I was in Clayton - frame flex was one thing that I noticed had changed. I can't say what had the most effect on this - but it was noticably less.
     
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