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How are you measureing full extension? Just shocks off? sway bar disconnected? Some have extended sway bar links by 50mm which may or may not change that.
BTW: Don't have any measurements on my FJC foxes.

I took the measurements from the bottom surface of the top of the shock mount to the center on the bolt hole where the lower shock bushing fits on. When I took this measurement, I only removed the shocks. I am also thinking about extending the sway bar links, however, I am not completely sure on how that will effect the suspension geometry. Will this just allow it to flex more? The sway bar also seemed to be limiting the down travel of the suspension when the tires were in the air. On a side not, when I installed my slee springs, the only thing I needed to disconnect was the shocks and not the sway bay or anything else. This gave the springs plenty of room to wiggle around. End side note. In my opinion, with respects to the fox shocks, you can only go up to the 10" shock without compromising tons of up-travel. The 10" shocks measure 16.1" compressed and 26.1" extended. Also, with anything more than 10" you will be over extending the springs, though this my give you more down travel, there will be no pressure on the wheel in the "hole," hence, no traction and the wheel might as well be in the air anyways (N74L). Even then, 10" is pushing it, with my rig at 10" the springs are loose. I have been talking with Sonny from down south motor sports and he is able to convert the upper bushing on a stock fox shock to a stem type so that I do not have to run stem-eye adapters. This will also not extend the length of the shock. He will of course valve them to my specs as well (he has done some 80 series, https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/245970-fox-shox-2-0s.html).

On the other hand, the FJC shocks are on par with the OME shocks (travel wise) they are 14.85" compressed and 24.45" extended. This gives you a total of 9.6" for travel compared to the OME 9.8". However, with respects tot he extended lengths, the FJC fox shock is longer by .45". This means you will be extending the spring more and giving you more down travel. Now we get to my question earlier: because of the shorter compressed length of these shocks, compared to my 16" full bump measurement, is the full up travel potential being used? Or is there some other "flex" factor that I am not taking into consideration?

One more thing, I am planning on getting the click adjuster on the ones up front but am undecided on the ones in the back. They will be harder to reach and the only benefit to them that I can see is better handling when towing a trailer, something I would rarely do. Any thoughts?

That is all for now. If you got this far...congratulations! Hope I covered everything running through my head right now.
 
I ended up removing the click adjusters; I wished I would have saved the money up front I spent on them. They were a PITA to keep free enough to turn and they don't alter the valving but instead just restrict the flow of fluid into/out of the remote canister. IMO you're much better off adjusting the valving at the shim pack to get your intended results. Or go to a external bypass model so that you can more easily change the compression and/or rebound to suit (there isn't enough clearance for the external bypass shocks on stock locations).

I have to defer to Skidoo as he is running the FJC shocks on the stock mounts. Whereas mine are completely custom mounts and wouldn't help you in any meaningful way regarding travel #'s.

Some LCs seem to come with a frame mounted compression bump stop just above the rear axle. My '99 didn't come with anything more than a thin piece of flat stock bolted to this location. If you have this rubber bump stop you'll obviously get a little more compression depending on the force applied to the bump stop. I suspect you already factored this in. Ditto for the rubber shock eyelet/post mount bushings. Albeit it is slight but you'll get a little more compression from them depending upon the force applied (probably more from the post style upper mount bushings).

I lengthened my sway bar bracket 50mm per Darren's recommendation. I assume he cycled the suspension to arrive at that amount (~2.5" lift).
 
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If you want to get every last bit of travel take a look at Spresso's build. With custom mounting you could match up a shock with best travel then figure angle to mount them to take advantage of it. Might need to break out the trig book to calculate. :confused:
 
what valving are you guys currently using? Currently my rig does not have any steel on it. It will however have some sliders by the end of the weekend... The place I am getting them from offers a free one time re-valve, though, with shipping and down time (DD) i might just do it myself if i feel the need down the road. I was thinking to air more on the stiffer side (according to my future plans for the rig. I will probably talk to Sonny but was wanting to get some feedback on your valving setups.
 
This is the 3rd tune and what I now consider, for my rig and driving style, to be close to ideal for me. I could use a little more compression valving towards the end of the stack (smaller diameter) as its a little too linear right now; will change this at the next overhaul interval.

And with the trailer connected I could use a bit more rebound throughout the rear shocks travel range; but then the current valving is great in the rear for KK-less travel ;)...so I prefer to compromise when the KK is attached.

Fronts: Rebound: #60 / Compression: #80 (from the 2.0 Series Valving Specifications chart).
Rears: Rebound: #70 / Compression: #80 (from the 2.0 Series Valving Specifications chart).
 

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My fronts are 20 comp / 70 rebound with clicks to adj comp.

Rear is a little stiffer on comp than stock 40/80
Valving stacks for
980-99-417-A
Compression Stock 40 Current
1.600 0.008 0.008
1.425 0.008 0.008
1.350 0.010 0.012
1.100 0.010 0.012
0.950 0.010 0.012
0.800 0.020 0.020


Rebound Stock 80
1.425 0.012
1.350 0.012
1.100 0.015
0.950 0.015
0.800 0.015
0.866 0.1
0.866 0.1
 
Just an FYI: If you are new to using limit straps: They stretch. It doesn't matter if they are 2X, 3X or 4X thickness. Its really difficult if not impossible to reliably set the down travel limit to maximize, given our paltry front suspension travel, control arm travel but yet protect the UCA joint. I'm probably going to have to fab my own limit strap adjusters as I can't find anything off the shelf that would work within the confines of the limited space we have to work with.
 
SHOCKS

I also offer all of the fox shocks, adapters and straps that I use on mine. My price might not be as low as some of the prices below, but I have confirmed fitment and had a bunch of time into it and have used the setup successfully for several years and tons of miles. Also only have to deal with shipping from one place. King shocks are another option, and bolt on option is available, but $800 pair. Also Slee is supposed to have a 100 series specific shock too.


 
Darren in AU has a bolt on set of foxes for the 100. IDK about prices or shipping, but if you have the $ its another option. IMO its the best way to go about getting fox shocks on 100.....probably the most expensive though:meh:
 
Would limit straps be needed in the rear?
 
My fronts are 20 comp / 70 rebound with clicks to adj comp.

Rear is a little stiffer on comp than stock 40/80
Valving stacks for
980-99-417-A
Compression Stock 40 Current
1.600 0.008 0.008
1.425 0.008 0.008
1.350 0.010 0.012
1.100 0.010 0.012
0.950 0.010 0.012
0.800 0.020 0.020


Rebound Stock 80
1.425 0.012
1.350 0.012
1.100 0.015
0.950 0.015
0.800 0.015
0.866 0.1
0.866 0.1

How do you like the click adjusters? Are they helpful?
 
I will vouch for Carl. I purchased my Fox 2.0s, and the other parts from him.
Also he has been super helpful on the phone with any questions that I have had.

I got the Slee blueberry front bumper installed, OME torsion bars...and with stock Fox valving, the shocks still feel fine. Haven't been anywhere near a trail with the bumper on yet, so not sure how the shocks will handle the damping off road.

Michael
 
Have not used the click adjusters as much as I thought I would. Currently set in middle of range after some initial playing with settings.
No limit straps on rear.
 
shocks

I run the 6.5" fox 2.0 remote res with JKS Pin-eye adapter, 18" limit straps in front. I also got different spacers for lower mount, so straight bolt in. The rear I run are the FJC type piggy back 2.0 with no limit straps. I have arb bumper front w/ 12k winch dual batteries, Sliders, Slee non carrier rear bumper, with tucked up skinny steel wheel for spare in OE location. No drawer storage right now, 3rd row back in. I am very happy with the ride vs. OEM or OME. It rides so good on the washboard, that I often take Forest service roads as a "shortcut" for my commute or on trips. If you are really heavy compared to my setup it would be good to have the shocks revalved at least in the rear.
 
Thanks for all of your help and replies guys! I have decided to go with the 10" travel shocks in the rear and probably 6.5" up front (I will be measuring it this weekend after I install Carl's UCAs. There will probably be no way or any benefit to putting in an 8" shock. I will also not be going with the clickers and saving the money for gas or Christmas. Fox now makes some shocks that already have the stem ends on then (for the front). The place I am purchasing them from (downsouthmotorsports.com) has their own custom stem top that they put on instead of the bushing top for the rear. It costs just as much as an adapter and there is no added shock length to account for. I will post pictures once I get them on (sometime after thanksgiving).

Thanks for all of your help with the UCAs and stuff Carl! I am looking forward to putting them on this weekend!

-Ryan
 

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