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- #21
Fox 2.0 Install with progressive 3" coils
- Thread starter Thomo
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I know I would not lower the rear lower shock mount.
Mine get abused right where they are and now I have armor on those lower mounts
They would be toast if they where lower than they already are
Mine get abused right where they are and now I have armor on those lower mounts
They would be toast if they where lower than they already are
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- #23
Would dig to see some pics of what you've done kidglove13.
I am apprehensive about droppong the lower mounts. At least if i cock up the upper mounts i cam get another set to try again. So I'm going to focus on moving the upper mounts up. Considering a body lift to buy me more space if I need it.
I am apprehensive about droppong the lower mounts. At least if i cock up the upper mounts i cam get another set to try again. So I'm going to focus on moving the upper mounts up. Considering a body lift to buy me more space if I need it.
Moving upper mount up is better but less space, double edged sword
I bought the lower mount protection from someone here on mud
When I remember who it is I will post it up
Lower mount protection
I bought the lower mount protection from someone here on mud
When I remember who it is I will post it up
Lower mount protection
I'm not sure a out the bleeds. But I think there is 2 bleed ports that can be opened on the valve body between the shims. I was reading something about it before. I have 200psi, however I heard it doesn't do much by lowering it.
Thomo us a ratchet strap or cinch strap to install the fronts.
Kidglove, I think it might be a issue raising the mounts up higher with the reservior and the shock body being on top instead of bottom. It's doable though. A plasma would come in handy to upen up the hole in the factory upper shock mount bracket.
Thomo us a ratchet strap or cinch strap to install the fronts.
Kidglove, I think it might be a issue raising the mounts up higher with the reservior and the shock body being on top instead of bottom. It's doable though. A plasma would come in handy to upen up the hole in the factory upper shock mount bracket.
Oh crap I did not even notice that
I looked at the picture of the rear shock unmounted
That would be a bitch the raise that mount considering where the resi ties into the shock
A plasma cutter would make it a much easier job
A body lift would make life alot easier for that
This is the issue i ran into with my shocks in the rear, very simple oversight, had always planned to space the rear mounts up about 1.5" but of course couldn't do it due to the connected remote res. You actually have less up travel in the rear than mine and where mine is at is probably where id draw the line as far as pushing the up/down travel ratio. That said mine works very well for me i love the travel i get out of it and right now for what my car is built for currently its perfect and works very well. In the near future im going to start entering various competitions ect and will need to re work my suspension to suit, as right now its just not built for racing. I can tell by looking at your car that yours and mine are not built for the same thing and like the others i think thats not enough up travel front and rear for you and "general purpose" wheeling.
Without buying new shocks i think the best option for you is to either go to a 4" coil or fit a body lift to help the rear end. Id certainly just go to 4" coils personally as the easiest option, saves modifying front towers and rear uppers, still lower than the 2" body lift and you will appreciate the clearance.
Without buying new shocks i think the best option for you is to either go to a 4" coil or fit a body lift to help the rear end. Id certainly just go to 4" coils personally as the easiest option, saves modifying front towers and rear uppers, still lower than the 2" body lift and you will appreciate the clearance.
Just for the record, you CAN buy reservoir shocks with the resi hose connecting to the bottom of the shock body. I know it doesn't help the OP, but might help other people looking to go a similar route.
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- #30
I'm definitely not happy with how much up travel I have at the moment. I think I need to get the rears to 6"up/6" down when unlaiden. Once fully loaded I would expect it to drop an inch or so to 5"up/ 7"down which would be closer to what I think would be acceptable.
I really don't want to lift it any more....
So am I nuts to be thinking about cutting the floor pan in the boot to make more space? From what I can see I have about and inch or so of space between the top of the stud on the rear shock and the body. So if i cut the floor pan to let me raise the rear mount 2" and then box it in. It means I would have two raised sections in my boot but these would be pretty close to the back of the rear seats and when I get round to building a drawer system I could accommodate it... Resi's could then be located in the boot...
With regards to the front mounts, I'm thinking of sourcing shock towers of a scrapped 80 that I can modify and then cutting the top off of the existing towers and then bolt on the new modified towers so the mounts are an inch or so higher. The shock towers taper in so I should be able to get a snug fit which could be bolted on the sides and back. Which would be pretty stout... Not sure my description is very clear but i can see it in my head... kinda
I really don't want to lift it any more....
So am I nuts to be thinking about cutting the floor pan in the boot to make more space? From what I can see I have about and inch or so of space between the top of the stud on the rear shock and the body. So if i cut the floor pan to let me raise the rear mount 2" and then box it in. It means I would have two raised sections in my boot but these would be pretty close to the back of the rear seats and when I get round to building a drawer system I could accommodate it... Resi's could then be located in the boot...
With regards to the front mounts, I'm thinking of sourcing shock towers of a scrapped 80 that I can modify and then cutting the top off of the existing towers and then bolt on the new modified towers so the mounts are an inch or so higher. The shock towers taper in so I should be able to get a snug fit which could be bolted on the sides and back. Which would be pretty stout... Not sure my description is very clear but i can see it in my head... kinda
As I plan my build, I am seriously considering the exact same setup. I don't want to do a body lift because I don't want the added height. Losing a couple inches at the backs of a drawer setup is no big deal whatsoever. My old drawer setup had a dead space back there anyway due to the taper of the seats.
With regards to the front mounts, I'm thinking of sourcing shock towers of a scrapped 80 that I can modify and then cutting the top off of the existing towers and then bolt on the new modified towers so the mounts are an inch or so higher. The shock towers taper in so I should be able to get a snug fit which could be bolted on the sides and back. Which would be pretty stout... Not sure my description is very clear but i can see it in my head... kinda
Check out Ford F-250 shock towers or the offerings from RuffStuff Specialties. Both of which should be able to be spliced into the stock towers very easily.
Ford part no. is E5TZ 18183A
You are absolutely mental if your even for a second considering fitting a 2" body lift instead of getting some 4" coils, and you are even more mental if you then ontop of the first mental decision are considering cutting into your rear floor just to accommodate shocks on a car that isnt a purpose built racecar. which is about the only thing that would justify cutting into the floor to fit long shocks and or coil overs.
I understand you might have gone to a bit of trouble to get these coils of yours from here but seriously, just buy some 4" coils and forget about it, problem solved, you will have a much more suitable ratio for general purpose driving. You cant use the argument that you dont want to be any higher because you prepared to fit a useless 2" body lift over a 1" increase in coil size that will not only give you the travel that you need but will provide you with more clearance from both the body and chassis offroad.
Dont the guys in Aus that you got these coils from also use the 12" fox ? how do they mount them ?
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- #34
Yes they do. But it turns out that they use the non remote resi versions which are a bit shorter. When I started looking into this setup I could have gone with the complete kit but at £2500 (approx 4000USD!) that's a bit rich for my blood. So far I'm £1600 in ( that includes a full set of braided and extended brakes lines, 3' castor correct bushes and new suspension bushes all round).
I was told by the supplier that the length of the shocks I bought would be fine... Anyway I am where I am so need to make this work.
Now with regards to the body lift, I am not considering that over the 4" lift. Always been a bit sceptical about them and. I have never seen the point, until Now. But it would only help in the rear, so scrapped the BL idea.
I don't see the big deal about cutting the floor pan, would only need and inch or so from it but if going 4" solves the problem the. I'll be honest that does seem like the logical and way more simple route to go...
Would it be sacrilegious to use 1" coil spacers on top of what I have to get to 4"? The reason I have been reluctant going higher than three is because of the potential driveline alignment issues and the cost of having to go with a double cardan front drive shaft or is it a non issue?
I was told by the supplier that the length of the shocks I bought would be fine... Anyway I am where I am so need to make this work.
Now with regards to the body lift, I am not considering that over the 4" lift. Always been a bit sceptical about them and. I have never seen the point, until Now. But it would only help in the rear, so scrapped the BL idea.
I don't see the big deal about cutting the floor pan, would only need and inch or so from it but if going 4" solves the problem the. I'll be honest that does seem like the logical and way more simple route to go...
Would it be sacrilegious to use 1" coil spacers on top of what I have to get to 4"? The reason I have been reluctant going higher than three is because of the potential driveline alignment issues and the cost of having to go with a double cardan front drive shaft or is it a non issue?
DC front shaft is not an issue, you wont need one.
The coil spacers would be the even better way to do it rather than new coils, be realistic you just need a bit more height and it will be a good level dont go cutting into your floor and making custom uppers mounts front and rear when you can solve it by chucking some spacers or new coils in, you really will never notice the difference, any difference made to handling and castor being ever so slightly out if its been set for a 3" lift will be so minimal you most likely wont even notice it.
The coil spacers would be the even better way to do it rather than new coils, be realistic you just need a bit more height and it will be a good level dont go cutting into your floor and making custom uppers mounts front and rear when you can solve it by chucking some spacers or new coils in, you really will never notice the difference, any difference made to handling and castor being ever so slightly out if its been set for a 3" lift will be so minimal you most likely wont even notice it.
I can't seem to get a good link to the ATS4x4 website, any info? TIA
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- #37
Website is www.ats4x4.com - Doesn't seem to be working at the moment though...
The most info on the coils and suspension setup can be found in this thread on LCOOL: LCOOL.org :: Log in
There was a thread on MUD about "project Rooby" but it seems to go a bit off track...
The LCOOL one has a fair bit more tech info.I had to wait ages to get my coils (circa 6 months!) and started looking into alternatives and it turns out Dobinsons were able to match a set of 3" progressive coils for the 80 series that they do with the part no's of the ATS4x4 coils... So there are other options out there for something similar.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thought I'd give a quick update. Not really progressed the setup any further. Should get the bumpstops sorted this weekend.
But I have been DD'ing my rig a fair bit and I have to say what a difference from the OME setup! With the CD adjusters set on 6 F & R body roll is near enough eliminated. Been throwing it into to corners and it really is exceptionally composed.
I'm now toying with the idea of taking the sway bars off and seeing how she handles... Any thoughts on this?
Also the harshness is gone, London has many a deep pothole and unforgiving speed bumps, I now find myself aiming for potholes and speeding up for speed bumps.
Can't wait to get this off the black top and flex it out. Hopefully weekend after next.
But I have been DD'ing my rig a fair bit and I have to say what a difference from the OME setup! With the CD adjusters set on 6 F & R body roll is near enough eliminated. Been throwing it into to corners and it really is exceptionally composed.
I'm now toying with the idea of taking the sway bars off and seeing how she handles... Any thoughts on this?
Also the harshness is gone, London has many a deep pothole and unforgiving speed bumps, I now find myself aiming for potholes and speeding up for speed bumps.
Can't wait to get this off the black top and flex it out. Hopefully weekend after next.
Were you able to test your set up? I went the Fox route as well. Took my rig out yesterday to Cleghorn trail for shakedown run. Those in SoCal will be familiar with "Cleghammer" and the various obstacles on the trail. The set up was put to the test. Everything worked well but my resi mounting locations...
Used some zip ties while on the trail to hold driver side resi. Lost on strap and rubber spacer due bad tire rubbing.
Used some zip ties while on the trail to hold driver side resi. Lost on strap and rubber spacer due bad tire rubbing.
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- #40
Well, life happens and I'm only getting to sorting my bumpstops now... I'm also going to fit some 30mm coil spacers I had a mate make up.
From Drawing...
...to made!
Now the plan is to get them done this coming weekend. I'm going to fab up something up akin to the Man a Fre Bump stop drop brackets.
In order to do so I need to gear up and I don't have time during the week to tear into my cruiser to check bolt Sizes, lengths and pitch so am hoping you guys can help me out.
I need the following Bolts diameter, length and pitch.
1. Rear Bump stop bolts
2. Front spring follower bolt
3. Front Sway bar bolts
4. Axle side of the Front Radius arm
I have checked toyodiy.com and the FSM, no Joy. So any help would be much appreciated. I need to order these up so I can get done what I need to this weekend.
Cheers
Thomo
I'm also going to fit some 30mm coil spacers I had a mate make up.
Now the plan is to get them done this coming weekend. I'm going to fab up something up akin to the Man a Fre Bump stop drop brackets.
In order to do so I need to gear up and I don't have time during the week to tear into my cruiser to check bolt Sizes, lengths and pitch so am hoping you guys can help me out.
I need the following Bolts diameter, length and pitch.
1. Rear Bump stop bolts
2. Front spring follower bolt
3. Front Sway bar bolts
4. Axle side of the Front Radius arm
I have checked toyodiy.com and the FSM, no Joy. So any help would be much appreciated. I need to order these up so I can get done what I need to this weekend.
Cheers
Thomo