gonzopancho
SILVER Star
Some people use dry ice.
Makes the cleanup easy. IJS…
Makes the cleanup easy. IJS…
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Why not just use Corroseal (for example)? Great progress btw.
Don't think its a rust issue, just getting to bare metal for a fresh start.
Seals rust in, but doesn't remove it. Good product but not your goal.
Sounds like he’s trying to remove rust from inaccessible areas to me.
Actually it chemically converts the rust, stopping further oxidation. When combined with a paint system it’s pretty effective.
Corroseal is just one of several rust converters. I just happen to think it’s one of the best.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #2,307
So here’s the cowl area that needs tackled next. I’d like to get as much of the old paint and surface rust off as possible before applying new. But the worst stuff is down in where it’s inaccessible. Once I’ve gotten everything I can via sandblasting, I’d apply some type of converter down in there where a gun nozzle can’t reach, possibly more of the Eastwood Inner Frame Coating.
The inside of the firewall in pic three is just an area of surface rust and peeled paint that’s more easily dealt with through sandblasting rather than trying to run a grinder with a stripping disc or wire wheel.
The inside of the firewall in pic three is just an area of surface rust and peeled paint that’s more easily dealt with through sandblasting rather than trying to run a grinder with a stripping disc or wire wheel.
Oops, my mistake buddy, I was thinking that Master Series rust encapsulator paint stuff was called Corroseal for some reason.
So many products out there, sorry bout that.
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No worries. Just trying to add any information that might be helpful.
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Although this product says "Converts" on the can, I don't think it actually does when you read the material on their website. At least I don't think it chemically converts the rust into something else like magnetite. Not saying it's a bad product; just think it's a bit misleading.
Corroseal is really good. Im happy with it's effectiveness. I put some in a spray bottle for the hard to reach spots. It worked on my roof. I just wish I did it sooner.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I think what you're doing with the Eastwood stuff is fine! Remember it took 40 something years to get that way! You're just giving it 40 more 
Hell, shoot 'em both in there, the more the merrier. I shot a bunch in those areas and then rocked the body like a pig on the spit.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Grind the case to fit the new gears?
Dang I missed that post.. I had originally ordered the 3:1 sumo gears for the 38mm transfer case and was of the understanding they did not need any mods to the housing as they are just the idler gears and no the high/low that you've shown..
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #2,318
It’s an idler gear and the low range counterpart gear which goes on the rear of the output shaft. If I had to guess, the new low range gear for the output is roughly 1” larger in diameter. The back half of the case interferes requiring the “minor clearancing”. I did it a very little bit at a time, always re-bolting the rear output race housing to the case and trying to force the bearing into the race while turning the shaft and gear, checking the clearance. Kind of a crude method, but it worked. My only issue now is that the magnetic, Allen head drain plug is too long, and won’t seat the seal before hitting the gear. Gotta either make a thick spacer/washer, or cut the plug down.
Wow.. thanks for flagging this. as it's not something I'd thought of. I'll look into asap I'm using the factory plug and would hate my first drive in gear to munch my nice 4:1 gear set.
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Factory plug is fine, as they're a bit shorter. Georg schooled me on this for mine.
