Floor repair-- POR15 epoxy?

[SwissEd]

Spent many nights removing all the nasty insulation off footwells and also sanded cargo area to bare metal. I discovered various small holes and will do POR15 prep and paint but wondering if I should use the POR epoxy for these holes or get someone to weld steel. I intend to paint in original color and drive without mats (summer only) so want it to be real nice and keep original contour. I sanded out what seemed to be some old bondo or similar. Any thoughts welcome, Ed PS trying first time to attach photos- hope it works...

 

[joeyg1973]

You can get a mig welder and quickly patch those up. Put some copper of aluminum on the side that will be showing and then weld from the opposite side. Then use a grinder with a light flap sanding wheel and clean up the welds on the side that is showing. POR-15 both sides.

Don't bother with the epoxy, it's not that good. I bought some and rarely use it.

 

[fj404life]

Hmm maybe find someone with a tub you could cut a section of floor out of to patch in that area with?
What tool did you use to sand to bare metal? I am about to do the same thing.

 

[Sputnik40]

That is a great looking tub considering the late model year. Those pin holes are nothing. I concur with welding it up being the best and most permanent solution.

Alternatively - you could also simply braze then with bronze or another soft type metal. I did this with a quarter sized plug to the old antennae hole in my cowl and it's held perfect under paint for almost a dozen years.

Also - I had a couple of pits in the floor of my tub when I redid it (same time as the brazing example above) and I used Por 15 epoxy. Painted over it and then sprayed with Wurth SKS - no problems to those repairs yet.

Seeing how nice the tub is and how much work you've done already - might as well finish it right and weld.

I would not consider cutting anything out and using patch panels - leastwise unless there's bigger holes I'm not seeing?

 

[73fj40lc]

X2 I did the same thing when welding up the holes for the factory spare tire carrier and the factory lisence plate holes on my tailgate. I used an old aluminum axle wedge on the side that was showing then ground the weld smooth. Those holes would be easy to weld up. I sand blasted my metal. You need to make sure that the edges of the holes are clean good metal and not paper thin. I used a drill to slightly enlarge my rust holes then welded them up. good luck

You can get a mig welder and quickly patch those up. Put some copper of aluminum on the side that will be showing and then weld from the opposite side. Then use a grinder with a light flap sanding wheel and clean up the welds on the side that is showing. POR-15 both sides.

Don't bother with the epoxy, it's not that good. I bought some and rarely use it.

 

[KY Longhunter]

how bout All-Metal filler.

 

[SwissEd]

I used a Hilti drill with a rotory wire brush (Osborn from Germany). I have a very course one I first used to remove paint and crap (old melted rubber from mat) and the a fine one. I know I went over the top and probably OCD but heck- this is a keeper and since I am 55 with 5 kids, someone will hopefully enjoy it for many many years! I also have Osborn end brush for the drill (they are about 1 -2 in. diameter) and work will on the bevel edge and also in the corners. They take a bit longer and don't remove as aggressively but if you are patient it will work.

I will have a Toyota chap near Geneva (Switz) do the welds and get it right. I am also going to remove the rear heater (I only drive it in the summer with bikini) and this way I won't have heater hoses to worry about along passenger foot well.

It took me about 6 hours to sand the rear tub. I found it best to lock my Hilti against my leg to keep it from jumping. Make sure you have a drill that has a handle that can be repositioned to get different angles otherwise you will struggle even more. Good luck! Ed

 

[joeyg1973]

how bout All-Metal filler.

That's not a bad idea given what good shape it is in. Never used the stuff he shows but I have used lab metal and liked it.

 

[mimkerman]

POR 15 is a good product

I don't weld or have anyone nearby to help me out. I have had really good success with POR 15 epoxy in a number of locations on my rig, including the floor pans. Home Depot also has a less expensive non-branded epoxy product that I think works better and costs a little bit less. I have also used the Moroso product but that I would not recommend.