FJ80 axles under my FJ40
- Thread starter fawndog
- Start date
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I just wanted to add, that you NEED to fix all the stuff mentioned above, the worst thing i see is the Lift Blocks and the steering..
my Cut and turn took me like 2 hours once i had the axle apart. Its not that hard..
Dont take all the criticism as an attack, we just want to make sure your truck is safe, and you dont roll that thing or break it on the trail..
Welcome to MUD!
my Cut and turn took me like 2 hours once i had the axle apart. Its not that hard..
Dont take all the criticism as an attack, we just want to make sure your truck is safe, and you dont roll that thing or break it on the trail..
Welcome to MUD!
- Thread starter
- #24
The best option I've heard is to C&T the 40 axle and reinstall, hell I have the steering part on that already done.
cruzrdave- I'll get one in a bit. It is not bad in my honest newb opinion.
atoyot- it has cruised 70 with no problem (front driveshaft spinning). Actually we are trying to keep it as low as possible, the leafs SOA setup is where all the height came in. (26" to botom of frame rail, it was 29" before with 37's)
MTRs got sold
Isotel- Thanks, my problem is getting the info after the fact. But that's better than not at all. You guys are cute in a big brother telling me, "that's stupid" kind of way.
cruzrdave- I'll get one in a bit. It is not bad in my honest newb opinion.
atoyot- it has cruised 70 with no problem (front driveshaft spinning). Actually we are trying to keep it as low as possible, the leafs SOA setup is where all the height came in. (26" to botom of frame rail, it was 29" before with 37's)
MTRs got sold
Isotel- Thanks, my problem is getting the info after the fact. But that's better than not at all. You guys are cute in a big brother telling me, "that's stupid" kind of way.
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- Thread starter
- #26
Well, just like an older brother, we don't wanna see you die. Btu we will torture you till you are just about there
MOMMMM!!!!
This is from center of truck
This is from center of output shaft, looks to be 1.5"
I would ditch the shackle reversal. You aren't utilizing the extra wheelbase anyway. and notch/re-weld the front perches. If you don't want to cut/turn the front, then get a SR that doesn't add 2.5"s of lift and keep your springs flipped for extra wheelbase. This will solve your front driveshaft angle. Take the rear blocks out the back, as you won't need them now that you have lowered the front by 5"s. As far as the steering goes, I believe I would rather drive full hydro on the street than that. You'll have to rework your front driveshaft, but you you need a long slip anyway. Otherwise once you finally get this sidewalk crusher flexed, it will pull out.
Jeremy
Jeremy
I got this kit from Proffitt's for around $50 IIRC.
They work like this
This will help get the front end lower. My rig was scary high after the SOA, it didn't leave the garage until I had the COG down a bit.
BTW Proffitt's also makes a nice Anti Wrap bar "kit" which I feel is a good value.
They work like this
This will help get the front end lower. My rig was scary high after the SOA, it didn't leave the garage until I had the COG down a bit.
BTW Proffitt's also makes a nice Anti Wrap bar "kit" which I feel is a good value.
I'm running a 80 rear with coils, although leafs would work fine. I actually went all the way to a four link when building a good anti-wrap.
There are many, many good reasons to run an 80 rear. There are no real alignment issues.
I sold the 80 front and went with the 55 axle for a few reasons. First, it's worth a lot to the mini guys. That money can pay for a lot of ways to make the stock early axle better.
Second an 80 rear third fits great in a 4x/55/6x front.
The 80 birfs are great, but Bobby Longs 30 splines are better yet. and he now makes long spline long sides so you can run 80 lockers. Between the longs and the 80 rears I don't even give axle breakage a second thought with 36s.
The spring perches line up, the 4x4 Labs steering works well, no oil pan problems with the high pinion, etc.
That being said, I don't have an issue with running an 80 front axle on leafs. I'm really not sure about this particular one. Too tall, z link, welded leaf studs, all the stuff that's been said. It can be fixed, mostly by lowering it a ways.
There are many, many good reasons to run an 80 rear. There are no real alignment issues.
I sold the 80 front and went with the 55 axle for a few reasons. First, it's worth a lot to the mini guys. That money can pay for a lot of ways to make the stock early axle better.
Second an 80 rear third fits great in a 4x/55/6x front.
The 80 birfs are great, but Bobby Longs 30 splines are better yet. and he now makes long spline long sides so you can run 80 lockers. Between the longs and the 80 rears I don't even give axle breakage a second thought with 36s.
The spring perches line up, the 4x4 Labs steering works well, no oil pan problems with the high pinion, etc.
That being said, I don't have an issue with running an 80 front axle on leafs. I'm really not sure about this particular one. Too tall, z link, welded leaf studs, all the stuff that's been said. It can be fixed, mostly by lowering it a ways.
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I know this is an old post but I had to ad this... When my 11 year old daughter saw these photos and started to point out things such as the angle of the rear shocks while running leafs and for gods sake the shafts that look like just a smack away from becoming the letter "Z", you know its gotta be pretty bad!