FJ60 parts help

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Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Threads
10
Messages
58
Location
Chandler, AZ
I posted pics of my newest ride here

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=118483

Since I am new to LC's and have now purchased 2 in the past month I have lots to learn. I'll probably be selling one of the two since 3 vehicles for one person is a bit much. The rack on the trucks from the pics yesterday has been replaced as of an hour ago. I found it through a link on here, thanks!

Questions

1. I need a pair of shocks for the rear of my FJ60. Weld broke at the top. Suggestions? A couple of people have told me KYB's would be best.

2. 60 came with a NIB Dual Force clutch. Mechanic says stick with stock Toyota clutch unless I am going to do a lot of rock-climbing. Says DF holds better but wear out/break much quicker.

3. 60 came with NIB ARB ceramic headers and Y-pipe. Mechanic says stay away, affect smog, not good on stock engine, good for mechanically tricked engine.

4. Mechanic says lockers F&R overkill unless rockclimbing. Front (Lock-rite?) is good since I have manual hubs and the front end.

My 60 has the following.

stock carb engine
H55? 5 speed manual trans
stock clutch
A/C
OME lift w/greasable shackles
Eagle Alloy rims w/Goodyear Wranglers
Stock axles/hubs I think
Bilsteins
ARB's F&R
crappy homemade swivel tire mount welded to back bumper
full size Con-Ferr rack
Optima blue top battery

Thoughts? Recommendations? Comments?
 
1. I need a pair of shocks for the rear of my FJ60. Weld broke at the top. Suggestions? A couple of people have told me KYB's would be best.

KYB's are good shocks, the red gas riders are better for your application, the whites are too stiff. However your truck is lifted and they aren't very good at supplying the correct lengths for lifted applications. It has Bilsteins, why did it break, wrong length? I would replace it with a new Bilstein, confirm the correct length, great shocks!

2. 60 came with a NIB Dual Force clutch. Mechanic says stick with stock Toyota clutch unless I am going to do a lot of rock-climbing. Says DF holds better but wear out/break much quicker.

Agree, sell it.

3. 60 came with NIB ARB ceramic headers and Y-pipe. Mechanic says stay away, affect smog, not good on stock engine, good for mechanically tricked engine.

Agree, sell it.

4. Mechanic says lockers F&R overkill unless rockclimbing. Front (Lock-rite?) is good since I have manual hubs and the front end.

Dissagree, I would put one in the rear first, that's where it will do the most good. For a lunchbox type, Aussie Locker ~$250 + install. For selectable ARB ~$650 + install and air.

The standard recommendation applies, do any PM needed to make it reliable. Then take it out and wheel it, then you will have a better idea of the mods you "need" for the type of wheeling that you want to do.
 
Shock issue resolved.

I just got in contact with Bilstein today and they are going to send me a free one, well almost free, I have to pay to ship the old one back. They are the 5150 series (FB5-A195-h1 to be exact) with the external reservoir. I had to give a deposit since they wanted the old one back to inspect. So I'll get my $75.00 bucks back after I ship it to them. I talked to the previous owner today and he said he ran Rancho RS shocks and then switched to the Bilsteins and said it was a vast improvement in the handling so I'll take his word for it at this point and stick with the Bilstein's.
 

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