FJ60 emisions

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sj

Joined
May 8, 2003
Threads
106
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Location
Arizona
I did my emision testing this morning and failed. I was over by .98 on the hydrocarbins, almost 20 over on carbon monoixde and 5 over on oxides of nitrogen.

I bought my 87fj60 in cali and live in Arizona. I thought I would have no problems with emisions. I was going over it, when I relized about a month ago I was replacing new belts when I discovered I had a large hole in my hose that goes from behind the smog pump to the ABV or relief valve, the short hose. I was too busy and going to get to it shortly thereafter. I will now replace this hose, do plugs and anything else. I put in a K&N about a year ago so I assume that should be fine. Any ideas??

The guy gave me a paper that suggest checking the EGR valve, he also said to check the carb. The carb has been a concern of mine. I feel I have been losing power lately and wanted to get my carb rebuilt. Now that I have this problem, I will go ahead and do it. Everyone talks about Jim C. rebuilding them. Does anyone have his number?

Any other ideas of what to check and replace?? It has 170k miles.

Thanks

Sean
 
check that the pcv valve is actually sucking in air like its supposed to that line that goes in where the egr also ties in likes to clog up, or at least mine did and you can rebuild your carb yourself if you are mechanically inclined did it myself with a rebuild kit and a 2f manual and it runs great now. Good luck
 
First and foremost: vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. Check that all these hoses are intact and sealing correctly at the connections. The carb may be suspect also if its not been serviced recently. Your lack of power may also indicate that your cat has failed and caused an exhaust restriction. You might also try the "empty tank except for a gallon of white gas" trick, but don't tell them I told you :-X
 
Well, I had this problem when I first bought my 60, too. The problem with mine was that the air pump was toasted, because the PS pump had puked PS fluid on it, destroying the graphite pump vanes in the air pump, which broke up and traveled down the pipe...

New Air pump, repair of the PS pump, re-attaching all the correct hoses to the right places, vacuum check, a good tune and carburator adjustment, and VOILA! passed.

Now, you may also know that that, under California law, a car cannot be sold without a valid smog certificate. Your PO SHOULD have done this before selling. Live and learn.

Mike S
 
White gas is aka as Coleman camp stove fuel.

The emissions aren't that far off. Make sure that everything is working and that all the vacuum hoses are correctly routed. If it still won't pass, I would clean the EGR valve and anke sure that it is working and rebuild the carb.
 
I'd check the PCV, too.

You may want to either clean that K&N filter, or, go ahead and put in a regular one just for the test. If you over soak a K&N with the oil, or clean it incorrectly, etc, that'll choke it up a little...

Also, on the white gas thing, I've heard you should just add a little to the tank - not the whole gallon. You can also, on about a 1/4 tank add 2 bottles of HEET. I think Berryman's B12 will do it too.

On the carb, try doing the suck-clean thing. What you do is pull the breather off and, while it's running, rev the engine to about 2500 rpm, then, with a gloved hand, cover the mouth of the carb until it stalls. I'm not clear if you should stall it until it dies or just almost dies - I've done it both ways. What it does is reverses the flow through the carb and flushes stuff out.

Or you can advance your timing a little and run better gas.
 
My FJ60 would not pass Oregon emissions and after 8 attempts I decided to shell out some $$$$ for a Chevy 350. I am very happy with the additional power, but it did not pass either, until we put some "guaranteed to pass" from Napa in the tank.

My feeling, try and pass with the stuff you add to the tank and then worry about chasing down all the other things that might be causing it to fail emissions. By the way, pretty much the only thing I didn't do to the 2F was buy a new carb. New carb, stuff in the tank, you should pass.

Dave.
'87 FJ60 350
'97 FZJ80
 
I will probably start out by replaceing the hose behind the smog pump and then do a tune up. When I bought the car they did give me that certificate saying it passed emisions. When I brought it here to Arizona I had to pass agian, I sailed through with no problems, I was very low on everything. I am hoping it is just the hose, I will also check the pcv valve and look for vacume leaks. It seems like every time I open my hood I find a hose disconnected.

Sean
 
Another reason you could have passed one test but not another is that they've changed the nature of the tests (at least in TX) - the old test is for a low idle and a high idle, the new test is done on a dyno with a low and high speed test with the wheels spinning under load.

Just a little more info to share.
 
I did some work and this time it only failed the NOx. I put in new plugs, fuel filter, air filter, PVC valve, and I also found some vacume hoses disconected. They recommend checking the EGR system and/or cat converter. I called Toyota and they want $177 for an EGR valve and $95 for a EGR modulator. I havn't looked for any used ones yet. Is there anything else I should try first?

I am going to take it to one of these places that will look over it while it is connected to a tester and tell me what to try next.

Sean
 
Well, there's a used EGR valve on ebay right now - but if you're that low, I'd go for the fix in the can. I'll look at my emissions manual and see what they say to look for...

You should get the emissions book though - it really helps. You don't want to spend a lot of time and money just throwing parts at your truck - it'll cost you a fortune and you still may not get it fixed. There are too many weird parts and valves and hoses and crap that act and react with one another to do that effectively.

Also, I'm not sure the EGR will effect your NOx. I'll check the book for you though.
 
Okay, so the EGR is part of the NOx thing...so you can check that. Also check your spark control stuff (advancer on your distrib) - you could also check your timing. That can effect your NOx - at least it did on my truck.
 
[quote author=swank60 link=board=1;threadid=13543;start=msg130412#msg130412 date=1080763763]
Okay, so the EGR is part of the NOx thing...so you can check that. Also check your spark control stuff (advancer on your distrib) - you could also check your timing. That can effect your NOx - at least it did on my truck.
[/quote]

Hey Swank, did you ever get your truck pass emissions?
 
BigSur - not yet, but I've narrowed down which things I need to test on the air injection system. Basically there are three phases the air injection system goes through according to conditions. It either injects air into the exhaust system, into the injector rails or into the breather. Mine is blowing into the breather only, which is what it is supposed to do only if the Cat is really hot and you're above 50 mph (or something like that) - it's stuck in that mode so it's either the computer, the sensor in the cat or the speed sensor...

This is after putting a new PVC, carb, wires, air cleaner, dist cap, rotor, about 20ft of vac hose (and routing that correctly - which it wasn't), 2 VSVs, adjusting the timing, checking the valve clearance and...I think that's all...I could almost be state certified.
 
jeez Swank, that baby ought to be purring now..... good for at least another 100K :-)
 
As you can see since this is no longer by DD I can take my time to fix things. I guess that is both good and bad. I got my LC tested and they said the Cat is bad. The guy I took it to said Toyota had a sensor in it and it would be hard to find an aftermarket. He said he would look into one that might only be $200 or so. Toyota wants $900 for theirs. Cruiserparts.net has a used one for $350. But then below that they state "New Direct Replacement" for $150

Anyone have any ideas on where I can find an aftermarket? Does anyone have a used one? Since I am going to replace the Cat is there anything else I should do?

I thought about puting a new exhust system in but I would like to put in a 350 in the next few years. Would I waste money by doing the exhust now and then in a few years doing the engine? Would I have to do the exhust agian??

Sean
 
I just saw that Man-a-Fre sells a High flow with a fitting for the heat sensor for $315. Anyone put one of these in??

Sean
 
I failed CA emissions in 2002. I ended up buying a new catalytic converter. I bought mine from:

http://www.all-catalytic-converters.com/toyota-land-cruiser-converter.html

It bolted right in and had the tube for the thermosensor. The tube on the new one was a little longer than the tube on the old one (I don't know if the old one was original, though). I cut the tube shorter on the new one and flared the end. It was good enough to pass emissions in 2002. I'll find out in a couple of months if it's still holding up...
 
The saga continues....

I replaced my cat and went and had my emissions cheched agian. This time I passed the NOx by alot, but failed Hydrocarbons and Carbon monoxide. This is puzzling becuase last time I failed NOx but passed the other two.

I will go through the manual agian and look for what could be wrong. Any ideas? Thumbing through the manual systems that deal with HC and OC are; Air injection, Spark Control and EVAP. Anyone deal with things specific about any one of these?

Recap, new cat, pvc valve, air and fuel filter, and plugs. Maybe I will change my oil again with new oil filter then drive stright to the emission place and get it tested.

The next thing I was thinking was to have someong try adjusting the carb.

One more thing, this time I put in 89 rather than 87 gas, would that have messed things up?

Sean
1987 FJ60
170k
 

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