Mudsters
I’m chasing various things with my 75FJ 40 and one of them is replacing the charcoal canister. My question is how do you know when these are bad? It looks like there’s no replacement available so wondering what other solutions there might be? This looks to be like the original
Search fuel smell, charcoal canister, and aftermarket canisters. You can get a model year specific emissions manual reprint from Specter off-road for testing and understanding how their supposed to function.
Here is the charcoal canister testing procedure from the 1976 Toyota Emission Control Repair Manual (for USA & Canada). It's really straight forward. As far as I know this procedure should be pretty much the same for yours. (If I'm wrong someone will undoubtedly correct me.)
Is the rest of the emissions stuff present? Now you need the model year specific emissions manual. Approximately 30 bucks from Specter. The way the subsystems interact and are controlled varies year to year.
Is the rest of the emissions stuff present? Now you need the model year specific emissions manual. Approximately 30 bucks from Specter. The way the subsystems interact and are controlled varies year to year.
Here is the charcoal canister testing procedure from the 1976 Toyota Emission Control Repair Manual (for USA & Canada). It's really straight forward. As far as I know this procedure should be pretty much the same for yours. (If I'm wrong someone will undoubtedly correct me.) View attachment 2839996
You can tell just by looking at the check valve orientation. A allows positive pressure and fumes from the tank to enter the can. B allows those fumes to flow into the intake when subjected to vacuum. C vents to atmosphere. I don’t have the emissions manual for your year but they’re all the same concept.
The 79 canister (Started in 9/77) adds another topside port for sucking fumes out of the carb float bowl. I’m also of the opinion that the BVSV and VSV on the later models is unnecessary and expensive to replace. Lots of guys run a canister without those particular components and it draws into the intake manifold just fine.
I have a 3fe, I used the BVSV without the VSV, connecting the cannister port B to one port of the BVSV, then running the other port of the BVSV to the intake manifold. I am going to change that arrangement to route the BVSV port to a throttle body port so it only draws in vapor off idle. The current arrangement might be messing with the ISCV. I should probably get the VSV and do it correctly.
The early systems relied on the electronic VSV to purge the canister after the engine was up to operating temp, (determined by a temp sender in head) or in top gear, or some other parameters.
Next the system used the BVSV to only allow it to purge if the coolant really was warm enough.
FJ60 and FZJ80 use a BVSV to dictate engine is warm and a simple vacuum actuated purge valve that works just like the one I linked above to allow purge when the engine is warm and the throttle plates are off idle using ported vacuum.
I'm purging with the above valve, teed into the PCV line using one of the extra ported vacuum ports on an FJ60 carb on a 73 1F. It seems to work fine, the requirement to vent with the engine warm was more for emissions standards. Purging at idle will throw off your mix either carbed or EFI. Best to do it past idle.
You can track down the vacuum actuated Toyota purge valve too, I think they are all 3 or 4 ports, usually blue I think. There is one on the driver fender of a FJ60, one that is used to vent the distributor on a FJ60 (right above distributor) and one buried under the intake manifold on a 1FZ.
