FJ40 Brakes (1 Viewer)

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Mar 8, 2007
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In a van, down by the river
So I have been working on getting the brakes set up on a 76 FJ40. Once the brakes are set I can get it over to my place for more attention.

The PO installed rear GM calipers/rotors but did not hook it up. I ran the lines and a valve to adjust flow to the rear. Did it all with the parts he had, mostly used stuff. I am about ready to bleed and adjust.

Anyone have any advice on bleeding, or is it just standard. I was planning on LF, RF, RR, LR. Once they are set I was planning to find a dirt road patch and try to set up the valve so the fronts lock up better than the rear...Again, any advice on this?

Cant wait to get this registered and running good.

:cheers: Sam
 
You have to "bench bleed" the master cyl.
I just get a short piece of tube, screw it into the
mc and run the other end back into the resevior.
That will get all the air out of the mc.
Other than that its pretty straight forward.


Lane
 
Bench bleeding is important because on the vehicle you don't necessarily get all the travel from the pedal. If these are used parts and they had brake fluid in them and then sat open double check that everything is working properly ie. pistons are extending and retracting. I thought that the bleeding procedure was farthest from the master first? anyone.
 
Is "Bench bleed" of master necessary if everything in the front was left alone?

What I mean is, the MC & front calipers were isolated/capped off when the rears were getting set up. I will be tieing the rear end on right before the bleed...so I think the MC should be free of air still...Right?

Yes, I realize I had the bleed order wrong, should be LR, RR, T, LF, RF. Can anyone comment? Is this correct?

Thanks for the inputs...Sam
 
If your mc lost all the fluid you will need to bench bleed it.
 
OK, cool...still has fluid, so I guess that will make it easier...it is actually at regular full level.

I'm going after work to install the last line and bleed em'. Hoping to drive it around a bit to see what shakes. If all goes well, I will drive it home on Sat. It is about a 30minute ride on the highway, or maybe 45 on back roads.

Thanks for the advice.

Sam
 
So, I got em' bled...pedal feels good, no apparent leaks.

Started it up to go around the block a few times. It ran for about 5 minutes then just stalled out. Tried to restart and battery turned it over like once, then nothing. Dead battery.

It did this last week, I jumped it and I thought I fixed it with a different battery and different alternator.

I am guessing that both of the alternators were bad??? My plan is to try and get them tested prior to purchase of a new one...

Anyone got a comment on this?

Just trying to stay local with my BS here...Would you all prefer I turn to the tech section?

Thanks, Sam
 
Check the voltage regulator too, not sure if you have one on your year.
I'd had problems with mine, new alt, new batt, would still die after awhile.
Just decided to replace the reg., got one at the local parts store $20-30.
Pulled the old one off and most of the guts had long ago rusted away.
Have had no trouble since.


Lane
 
Had the alternator tested, it was good. Picked up a new "reconditioned" battery from the interstate warehouse, ($25 for 800cca), Went over for a quick wrench session last eve., put the alt. back in and new battery.

Started right up & sounds good. pulled the neg. battery cable and it immediately stops running. So I believe it is just running on the battery juice.

Found a blown fuse under dash but I did not have my manual nor the fuse panel cover to see what it was. Checked later at home and it is marked Engine/Regulator...So I belive you are onto it Lane.

Tried to locate Voltage Regulator...Is this piggy back on the Selonoid? I did see a small relay that is totally corroded, 1"x1.5" silver cube, anyone know what this is for? It was hooked up in line off the positive cable.

So while testing Alt. "Auto zone" girl tells me the voltage regulator is on the firewall and shows me a pic that looks like a black box the size of a deck of cards maybe. She says $20 but out of stock. Napa shows me a pick of something with cooling fins and says it is mounted on the Alt. and is $130 out of stock.

Today I'm going over with tube fuses...hope to locate volt regulator. Anyone got a pic. of what the Voltage regulator looks like? Can you describe size and where it should be?

1976 FJ40...Thanks everyone for the help on this. I'm getting a tad frustrated that the truck I bought as "running" is still getting the kinks out and has yet to be driven...:doh: , But I think we are making progress.

I got the brakes set up and bled, hope they are good.

Thanks again all,
 
It's a black box, maybe 2-3 long, mounted on the firewall near you master cyl.
 
Went there yesterday after work intending to get the unit home.

So here was the problem...The PO had the F & E wires going to the Alt. marked each with a piece of tape and the letter, so I assumed that anyone taking the time to mark these would have them marked correct, right? :doh: Wrong...they were mixed up. Switched them according to wire diagram and replaced fuse. Runs and able to disconnect battery...back in business.

Checked for leaks at the brake lines...looks good no leaks. Drove it around the block after 15minute warm up. Stalled out when I pushed the choke in all the way. Wont start with choke all the way out. Found if I had it about 1/3 out it runs OK, but idle seems high to me.

Anyway drove it all the way home...about 35-40 minutes on back roads. After 10 minutes of getting used to it...it seemed to run good, but still cant get the choke settled down. When it is all the way in, it just stalls even after running over 45min.

Now it is home, the fun begins. Thanks for the inputs guys...appreciated.
 
Might be time to rebuild the carb. One of those jobs that I wouldn't do myself, but others have done it. I sent mine out to Jim C to have him do it. Works great.


Lane
 
after running it for several days, (on and off of coarse), I think it just needs adjustment...So Jim C. "rebuilds" carbs...Can you or anyone else point me towards someone who knows these 2f and can give it proper adjustment while running?

I tweaked a few screws and got it pretty good, but I think it may be off just a bit still. I think the mix screw was out a bit too much.
 

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