FJ100 Landcruiser Door Lock Actuator Motor Swap Instructions

[J100Roaming]

When I did my 05 there was no collar, it's a flat spot on the shaft that engages another flat spot on the gear to actuate the mechanism. The motors I got are round shaft, but I was able to grind the shaft down with a bench grinder and pliers holding the shaft. I did a little at a time until it was a firm, snug fit.

 

[KraziAzn]

(Edit) Found it.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Bump.

Search KF243G-101 on eBay, too many items came up. Is it a 10mm shaft or 20mm?

Does anyone know if a forum member can source the motor? I rather buy through someone here than eBay.

 

[gregnash]

(Edit) Found it.

Pardon Our Interruption...

Bump.

Search KF243G-101 on eBay, too many items came up. Is it a 10mm shaft or 20mm?

Does anyone know if a forum member can source the motor? I rather buy through someone here than eBay.

Go to the door lock actuator master thread... Lots of links there.. Depending on year you will need a different one for newer vs. older trucks (collar vs. no collar). I was able to find motors on Amazon Prime that were a bit more expensive but didn't come from china and I had in a few days.

 

[Jstreezy]

Trying to do this but can't seem to get the lock rod (one with the yellow plastic cover) off. I have a 98 LC, all the pictures I've seen look different than mine.

Any ideas on how to take this off?

Thanks!
JC

 

[lstamatis]

@Detailx thank you for your write-up it was very helpful. My door handle cable on my 1998 Land Cruiser snapped and as you know, the only replacement is the entire lock actuator assembly which Toyota quoted me $550 for. Yikes!!

PSA: This is not a fun job if you get the wrong parts as I did. I ordered from fleabay for $130 including shipping and the listing title was:

1998 - 2002 Toyota Land Cruiser LX470 Front Left Door Lock Actuator 69040-60080

As it turns out there's one small difference apparently between the toyota and lexus version of these and I didn't figure that out until I was cursing and bleeding from trying to get the new one to fit. The door lock pull is a different length. MUCH shorter on the Lexus one I ordered. Disclosure: I'm not sure if this is a model year difference or brand difference as I don't know what year truck this came off of. Mine is a 1998 Toyota though.

It's easy to swap the piece from your old one. Just flip the plastic holder clip off the metal rod and use a flathead screwdriver to twist it out. Anyhow, see attached pics.

FWIW my driver side door handle cable broke at 215k.

Hopefully this is helpful for someone else!

 

[lstamatis]

Trying to do this but can't seem to get the lock rod (one with the yellow plastic cover) off. I have a 98 LC, all the pictures I've seen look different than mine.

Any ideas on how to take this off?

Thanks!
JC

You have to twist that yellow piece counter-clockwise about an 1/8 turn. Yes, it sucks. Yes, you'll probably slip off once you get it to move and will likely be bleeding. It's similar to the way the door handle one works (which is much easier).

 

[Bloomer]

Great write up. Thank you!

The (devil) white piece is appropriately named! Corner of it cracked on me, but still fully functional.

Highly recommend removing the outside door handle. Made removal of clips much easier.

All went well except I can’t seem to get the inside door handle trim to sit flush. Something to figure out another day.

Thanks again for the great write up!

 

[Formerjeeper]

Have now done hatch, driver and passenger door. Interestingly the motors are different. Hatch and driver door motors had the D-shaped shaft with no collar. Passenger door had the brass collar. Guessing the passenger door lock was replaced by prior owner but who knows.

Rear seat doors next weekend - should be interesting to see what mix of leftover motors I end up with!

 

[stillcruzin]

Great writeup and photographs explaining the process. I completed my driver door and front passenger side door actuator motors. Only weird thing is that when I press the "LOCK" button on the driver side arm rest where the lock and window controls are the front doors lock and unlock in the opposite order from the rear doors and tailgate locks. Then if I go to "UNLOCK" the reverse happens. To get the remote key to work on unlocking the drivers side front door, I first have to press "UNLOCK" button twice and then the "LOCK" button once to get it to unlock the drivers door. If I do it only one time the alarm goes off when I open the drivers door. Is per chance the new actuator motors I purchased might have reversed polarity? Any thoughts on this to correct the problem would be helpful.