FJ-62 Metal Brake Lines

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Threads
831
Messages
10,863
Location
Plano texas
Hey guys, what's the best way to remove the metal brake line in the back of an FJ-62 without stripping out the connectors?
 
Lots of PB Blaster or AeroKroil, a flare wrench, and lots of patience. Go very slowly. A very small application of heat can also loosen up the rust, just be very careful. If you get desperate and it won't come apart, clamp a ViseGrip on the fitting and get it off, then go to Toyota and get a new line.

Make sure to put anti-sieze on everything before you put it back together.
 
just to frustrate you more, toyota has discontinued some of the metal brake lines,, some of them are no longer available, some are getting low on inventory, they rate availability in a range of A-F I few I went to get were in the F range,,,
 
Thanks am trying the Visegrip but its not coming lose ,I was afraid to try a torch! Mike
 
x2 vise grips
or if you fxxx your fitting
i dunno how much toyota brake lines are, but a decent flaring tool set cost <50$ and brake fittings are less then a dollar each. brake line can be purchased for about 1$/foot. might have to practice a few times but you wont be wasting any line....
 
Oreilly auto parts here has straight, metric japanese brake lines with the correct fittings in varying lengths up to about 50 inches. All you gotta do is bend em. Put one on yesterday on my 1980 FJ40 front passenger side disc. Discontinued from Toyota. Took about 10 minutes.
 
Now that Vice-Grips have been resorted to, it's too late, but I've found that a line wrench will get ~80% of the stuck nuts loose with one little trick. Impulse. Don't lean on the wrench, jolt it by hand. Several jolts in rapid succession works amazingly well.

Anti-seize sounds like a good idea, only be really gosh darned careful that you do not get ANY inside the brake system.

A note on bending new tubes; those 3 sizes in 1 benders generally suck. They're spendy (currently about $40-$50 each) but the Rigid or Imperial Eastman brand size specific benders are worth the money for doing OE quality lines.
 
Great information, even toy short lines go for about 6-8$ each, , some factory are good to buy, depending on how close the bend is to the end
 
Got it off, Put an old rag on each end and soaked the rags in PB Blaster all night long. Got a 51 metric line ,bent it,bled lines,now have brakes. Thanks guys! Mike
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom