FJ-55 interior cargo area panels

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The firewall

Moving on, as in I STILL have not exhausted my material stockpile I go after the passenger firewall
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Fabbing the firewall panel

A few measurements, hack chop with the hand held jig saw I have the basic shape. Back and forth until it fits overall. I clean the velostat with the stuff in the can there and too late installed the soundamper. I say almost too late, missed a bunch of protrusions, pressing the panel into place made impressions on the sound dampener. I then went back and drilled out the impressions. All in all, a very effective layout technique.
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Mounting the firewall panel

I used the existing firewall tabs (originally used to hold up the stock blanket (wimpy as using double quotes)) to mount the panel. That's the reason for the big "ears", in addition to the slots on the panel. Also I bolted it down at the only location with a preexisting through firewall nut that was at the correct level, wew, got that all out. Road testing, sure enough, my first true respite from the den of mechanical fury.
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another one for the bonfire!

The two sided tape idea, NOT, stuff did not stick well to the sound dampener. Bad idea. Using a just discovered technique, I screwed sheet metal screws into old (PO made) holes, pressed the side panel against the screw heads and had a perfect tranfer. Used the impressions again to guide the drill and no more mounting problems, now the side panel is in place but good.
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THe front door panels, just say skate matt ahhh

FINALLY, getting around to the front door interior panels. I use the old panel to layout. Wow, I'd be carefull here. Once again Toyota fails to disapoint. The original panels are not square! but the door section the panels fit into is? Picture shows the first appearance of the skate matt. Material costs are about $ 25 a door. The rubber matting cuts like a dream using a serated blade on a jigsaw. Punches easy too. Straights can be cut using a box knife but why? Serious, jigsawin delight!
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Landcruiser rated tough stuff

Back and forth again, trim to fit. There, a preview of what it will look like when mounted. I sure like the look. And, if it tough enough to stand up to hockey skates, it is Landcruiser rated. One drawback, it is dense. The panel shown weighs 7 lbs.
 
Mirror, mirror

Mirror the drivers door panel (there is a course texture for glueing on one side of the skate matt) for the passenger side. Use the palm sander and 80 grit to break the outside edges, works great.
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Are you blind nuts laddy?

Blind nuts, they are made out of aluminum, designed to squash like a rivet into a hole. The picture shows tools and the rig used to install the blind nuts. An allen head cap screw (OH YA, you bet, grade 8) washer, oversized nut, serrated type lock washer and finally, the blind nut.
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Blind nut install

I used the vice grips to cinch down the blind nut onto the installation assembly. Drilled the existing holes to size. Put a little automotive caulk behind the shoulder of the blind nut. Installed the assembly into the hole. Torque it all tight. Remove the bolt, done. The wrench on the oversized nut works with the lock washer to stop the blind nut from rotating while it is being compressed.
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Installed nut

Just as the title says, a picture of an installed blind nut. Certainly, easier ways to install a panel but I want to continue the same "look" as seen on with the rear panels.
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:clap:Saweeet install...........called em "Rivnuts" when they were made here by BF Goodrich.......aerospace stuff, nice quality and you could also get then in stainless steel; now, where did I leave mine???:confused:

Lou
 
Stainless! darn, could not find anything but aluminum. Would have prefered ss as there would then be no chance of setting up a cathodic reaction, making rust. Hope the caulk will do. As with most of my mods, you can consider this one an ongoing experiment.
 
Layout, again!

Yep, back to the butcher paper. I cut to shape using the panel. Tape the paper to the door, poke holes, lay it on the panel, mark the panel and mounting holes are now marked.
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What, no hammer?

Of course, hitting things with a hammer (the punch, for example) will never loose its charm but.... drilling the holes turns out to be one of those why the heck was I not using this method in the first place kinda things cause it is so easy knida things.
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Mounting the door panel

Piece O cake, fits right on cause I am SO good but NOO I overlooked the fact that the door handle has a larger OD and thus maybe not so hotshot but still well you get the idea kind of picture.
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Drivers door and a new tech..

Ok, ok, installing those blind nuts turned into a contest of wits and I was loosing. So came up with this, Grabbed a hold of the blind nut shoulder with the V. grips, used the drilled out turnbuckle nut to provide clearance. Had to go back through and retap the nuts to clean up. Several nuts had to be drilled out and replaced, read hassle but finally have the driver door ready for a panel.
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Drivers door panel installed

here is a picture of the drivers door panel, all the bells and whisles in place. I'm thinking I could use that tire cleaner stuff to spiff these panels up. MY OPINION, about the the only way you will see me approach my Cruiser with that gunk as in, shiney tires and the beast, you gotta be kidding me, contra-indicative.
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Observations from the real World

Slam the door test, tha skate matt panels add weight and vibration damping to the door yielding a quality feel to door closing. Less ringing, solid feeling. Down the road, I've hemmed and hawwed with noise observations from all the other panels. No h @ h here folks. Huge difference in road noise reduction, no doubt about it. We can actually converse in a normal pitch as we roll down the road. The skate matt does a hell of good a job civilizzen the ol Piggy.
 
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