Fix or Sell: '67 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[fireflyr]

Wanted to use the stock 2002 Suburban accelerator cable for ease of maintenance. Length was perfect and i had to widen the hole a couple millimeters where it passes through the firewall so it would snap into place. I also wanted to use the stock Toyota gas pedal so I took about 3” of 3/8” rod, bent it and welded it to the pedal. Welded a 10mm spacer to the top and cut a notch so the cable would pass through. It gets full throw just as it contacts the floor.
The original slotted portion of the pedal works as a stop when off the pedal.

Used a Lokar shift linkage for the transmission. That was all pretty straightforward. I have the gear indicator on the column but it doesn’t line up with the gears so i will probably have to get the Dakota Digital box for the LHX display.

 

[rlong]

Why dosn't the the shifter indicator work on the speedway column? Too much/little range? I may have to solve as well.
Thanks

 

[fireflyr]

Why dosn't the the shifter indicator work on the speedway column? Too much/little range? I may have to solve as well.
Thanks

Sorry. Just saw this. Not sure what it’s problem is but it just doesn’t align with the Reverse or anything past that. May be an adjustment issue. Easy enough to get to so I will see what I can do.

Got the battery perch made today. Same general idea as the BTB mount but the battery sits fore/aft rather than sideways.

 

[fireflyr]

Spent some time trying to figure this thing out. Spent a whole day adjusting the shift linkage trying to get it to move through the gears smoothly. Ended up welding an inch of rod back on and giving it a slight bend. Also ordered and installed the Dakota Digital gear display mostly because it has an integrated neutral safety switch. Kind of a 2 for one.

The relay wires into the purple wire going to the starter solenoid. The Dakota Digital stuff is well made, has easy to follow instructions and ships really fast.

 

[fireflyr]

I ran into a problem with the starter, TOTALLY self induced. When I turned the key to the run position the starter would engage. I couldn’t figure it out for the life of me. I knew I probably had a wire out of place but holy s***, that’s a lot of wires. Have I mentioned lately how much I hate wiring?
After consulting with my much smarter brother, I figured out I had the purple (19 neutral safety) and the pink (31 ignition coil) wires reversed in the steering column ignition plug.

A guy I used to fly with would always say ‘Lysdexia is a thing bad’ when he made a procedural error. It is a thing bad.
Once I get the heater installed I can fill it with antifreeze and try a start.
List is getting smaller.

 

[fireflyr]

Oh yeah the heater. Got it mounted on an ‘adapter’ plate since none of the holes line up. Add said it fits ‘68 to ? FJ40s. Yeah right. Add should say it’s a friggin generic heater that fits everything with ‘some modifications’.
Looks to be a nice little unit and pretty straightforward on the wiring. Even I can’t screw it up. Hopefully.

First tarantula of the year. Little sucker was lightning fast.

I will need to make a mount for the heater control valve but that can wait.

 

[White Stripe]

How long is the rear drive shaft? Good work so far!

 

[fireflyr]

How long is the rear drive shaft? Good work so far!

15 1/4”. Will order from Tom Woods. I can’t move the axle back because of the rear fuel tank.

 

[White Stripe]

15 1/4”. Will order from Tom Woods. I can’t move the axle back because of the rear fuel tank.

What's that exhaust insulation your using near the trans tunnel pic a few posts up?

 

[fireflyr]

It’s sold by Summit Racing. Trying to keep the temps down under my feets. There’s another one back aft of the muffler to shield heat from the gas tank.

 

[fireflyr]

I don’t think I have updated this in awhile. Got it to fire off about a week ago but it wouldn’t stay running. Ended up being the power source for the ECM, the purple wire to the starter solenoid and Dakota Digital neutral safety switch. All the above call for hot in ignition and start; even though the wiring schematic say the circuits I was using were, they weren’t. Ended up splicing right off the ignition switch. Next ran into a fuel supply issue. Got that sorted and it fired right up.

 

[fireflyr]

Finished the Vintage Air heater install last night. Had the lines and heater in to run the engine but finished the wiring last night. It works great I just have to come up with a nicer solution for the defrost hoses. They look unfinished just plugged into the round ports on the front.

Also got the wheels painted today and back on although it’s still up on jack stands. I ordered the Driveshafts from Tom Woods yesterday so I should have the rear one next week sometime and it will be a roller again.

Wish I could post a short video of it running. It sounds amazing.
Everything I’ve installed works. The fan kicks on at 140F, it shifts through the gears and the DD display shows the gear, neutral safety works. Lights, blinkers… it all works. It was well worth going with the new chassis harness, the stand alone engine harness and the Dakota Digital stuff. Great manuals and instructions and I didn’t have to call anyone for support.

 

[Jah310]

Amazing work. Well done. Can’t wait to see how you like it.

 

[bikersmurf]

Finished the Vintage Air heater install last night. Had the lines and heater in to run the engine but finished the wiring last night. It works great I just have to come up with a nicer solution for the defrost hoses. They look unfinished just plugged into the round ports on the front.
View attachment 3704225
Also got the wheels painted today and back on although it’s still up on jack stands. I ordered the Driveshafts from Tom Woods yesterday so I should have the rear one next week sometime and it will be a roller again.
View attachment 3704226
Wish I could post a short video of it running. It sounds amazing.
Everything I’ve installed works. The fan kicks on at 140F, it shifts through the gears and the DD display shows the gear, neutral safety works. Lights, blinkers… it all works. It was well worth going with the new chassis harness, the stand alone engine harness and the Dakota Digital stuff. Great manuals and instructions and I didn’t have to call anyone for support.

Great progress

140*F seems very cool for the fan to kick on. I'd check on what temperature your engine should be running at, but 200*F seems to be a more common temperature. V8s are inclined to run warm in a 40... but trying to keep it to 140* seems too cool.

 

[fireflyr]

Great progress

140*F seems very cool for the fan to kick on. I'd check on what temperature your engine should be running at, but 200*F seems to be a more common temperature. V8s are inclined to run warm in a 40... but trying to keep it to 140* seems too cool.

Thanks for the info. Seems like it’s keeping the thermostat from opening but all this is at idle on Jack stands. Hopefully get it on the road next week.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Great work! Glad you stayed the course. You are close!

 

[fireflyr]

Drove out of the shop under its own power. Will get it on the road tomorrow. Spent most of the day getting the tail lights working. I have LED replacements which I will get to eventually, but with the new harness i just needed to get it operational for now.

Celebrated with a Kern River Brewing Company IPA, named Just Outstanding for a local mountain bike trail.

 

[DeskJock]

I wish I had your patience. It’s awesome seeing your work on your rig. It’s really heart warming.

You rock.

 

[fireflyr]

Here’s something really odd. The whole time I’ve been screwing around with this thing I’ve been tripping over the parking brake cable. I had left it connected to the parking brake drum on the Tcase because I was too lazy to remove it. I always figured that I would replace it with a longer one but just couldn’t pull the trigger on spending the $180.
With all of the shift linkage installed I ran the cable up and it still fit. This is still the same OE cable that came with the original 3 speed, somehow worked with the extra length of the 4 speed, and now works with the longer 4L60e and Advanced Adapters stuff. Weird, I did not see that one coming.

 

[fireflyr]

Had an issue with the Wilwood master cylinder. Probably from sitting for 8 months without fluid. Ordered a rebuild kit and ran new lines to the rear discs. I also deleted the proportioning valve because it never seemed to do anything no matter how it was adjusted. The first drive was pretty quick last week but ventured a bit farther this time. Even tested the 4wd now that all of the vacuum lines are run. I took the vacuum off the left rear of the 5.3 because it already had a hose on it and hooked it up to the stock system.
Plenty of clearance on the 4L60e oil pan with the AA flange and Tom Woods driveshaft. Also running a 5 qt oil pan on the engine.
The Saginaw power steering is pretty amazing. Only thing I would change is to put a 17” steering wheel on it. The 15” works fine but it just feels odd. Not having a clutch is even odder.