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- #61
I still have a quart of the bedliner I can spray this with. Anyone know of a good carpet kit for these early 40’s with the toolbox?
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I still have a quart of the bedliner I can spray this with. Anyone know of a good carpet kit for these early 40’s with the toolbox?
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- #62
Steering shaft and universals installed. This has been the tightest fit so far. Had to slide the engine 1/8” to the right to clear. I could have ground off some of the header but didn’t want to have a H..ker exhaust manifold.
Universals are a 3/4” DD by 1”DD on top and a 1” DD by 1” DD on the steering box spud shaft. 3 months ago if you asked me what a spud shaft was you would have gotten a blank stare, let alone figure out what a 1”DD fitting is.
Universals are a 3/4” DD by 1”DD on top and a 1” DD by 1” DD on the steering box spud shaft. 3 months ago if you asked me what a spud shaft was you would have gotten a blank stare, let alone figure out what a 1”DD fitting is.
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- #63
I posted these in what did you do to your FJ40...... but thought I'd drop them in here too. A shop in Lancaster did the exhaust. I thought taking it to them with the tub off would make it easier but was informed I was wrong. REALLY wrong. Figuring out clearances is much easier with the body on.
It all worked out well though. Plenty of clearance everywhere and have ordered some exhaust insulation to help with heat.
It all worked out well though. Plenty of clearance everywhere and have ordered some exhaust insulation to help with heat.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Dang, that looks like a great run. I’ve got two girls with misplaced intestines. Eager to set that right when I find the right shop.
I'm looking at going to the 4l60e; and checking out your drivetrain location.
Have you checked out the front drive shaft to AT pan clerance?
Bob in CO
Have you checked out the front drive shaft to AT pan clerance?
Bob in CO
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- #66
Bob in CO,
I’m going to run a narrow front shaft and bought the smaller yoke from Advanced Adapters. Front shaft will probably be one of the last things I do. If I keep it to around 2” at the transfer case / transmission it will clear. I can still cheat the engine a bit to the driver’s side if I need to.
I’m going to run a narrow front shaft and bought the smaller yoke from Advanced Adapters. Front shaft will probably be one of the last things I do. If I keep it to around 2” at the transfer case / transmission it will clear. I can still cheat the engine a bit to the driver’s side if I need to.
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- #67
Worked on mounting the PCM today. Thought about putting it under the passenger seat (gas tank is moved to the back) but I like to hose out the interior sometimes so that was out. Didn’t want it up with the engine and in the glove box sounded like a pain so it’s under the glove box. Still debating on AC but will probably just go with an aftermarket heater for now. Nice thing is I didn’t cut any holes and only drilled 3 bolt holes for the PCM mount.
There really isn’t much room for mounting anything so it felt like a good compromise. The heater BTB sells is pretty compact so it frees up room on the firewall.
There really isn’t much room for mounting anything so it felt like a good compromise. The heater BTB sells is pretty compact so it frees up room on the firewall.
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- #68
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- #69
RevISK
SILVER Star
Love the 540* turn you’ve done here with you truck in general.
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- #71
I don’t think the turning has stopped just yet. I’ve never been a fan of automatic transmissions but it ended up being the easy button for me. Hell, I wasn’t even planning on doing the engine swap myself because I had never done anything like that before. Plan was to sell a couple old Moto Guzzis to finance it and take it up to Valley Hybrids and let Georg do it.
Five months later, I still have the bikes and I’ve done everything myself, except the exhaust. I have learned a ton, picked up a few new skills and re-connected with an old friend.
As I muddle my way through this I’m trying to document the little details that have stumped me in the hopes that it may help someone else down the road. Reading through the threads from all the guys that have done this has answered 99% of my questions so the answers are here, you just have to find them. Hoping to someday have a black belt in Google Fu, but I’m not there yet.
RevISK
SILVER Star
This forum is truly amazing.
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- #73
I must have cut the original hole for the 4 speed conversion with a can opener and a chisel. Nothing that a big square hole and some 16 ga. steel can’t fix.
This is how I spend a Saturday night….
This is how I spend a Saturday night….
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- #74
Cleaned up and painted the radiator support and changed out the front yoke on the Tcase with an Advanced Adapter kit. Looks like it will clear the transmission and oil pan by enough.
Also mounted the Spall fan on the new shroud from Champion.
Made a tool with a grade stake to keep the front flange from spinning on me. Worked great for both taking it off and putting the new one on. Everything i read says that the nut is 27mm. Mine was 29mm.
Also mounted the Spall fan on the new shroud from Champion.
Made a tool with a grade stake to keep the front flange from spinning on me. Worked great for both taking it off and putting the new one on. Everything i read says that the nut is 27mm. Mine was 29mm.
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- #75
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- #76
Got some stuff done. Fuel tank plumbed and wired. Ran the fuel filler out the back behind the spare tire. Hopefully the bend isn’t too extreme.
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- #77
Knee deep in wiring. The stand alone harness is all hooked up, now just trying to interface it with the Dakota Digital dash, Koito light kit, electric fan and new wiring harness. Did I mention I hate wiring?
Hood clears the top of the engine by millimeters. Had to remove the prop bar but I don’t ever use it anyways.
Getting the grill on was more for inspiration. I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
Hood clears the top of the engine by millimeters. Had to remove the prop bar but I don’t ever use it anyways.
Getting the grill on was more for inspiration. I can see light at the end of the tunnel.
Great to see all this progress you've ben making.
I'd never done a swap before... I read AA's and Downey's conversion manual and figured it all out in '96. Mud is a great resource to have access to. I hired a NHRA certified welder to weld in my mounts ($60 well spent) and an exhaust shop built the exhaust. 28 years later it's still going strong.
Edit... I should mention that my first $300 SBC packed it in a few years ago, and it was a direct bolt in to swap in another $300 (much cleaner) 350 which only had 70k miles on it. A new timing chain and some gaskets and its ready for another 20+ years.
I'd never done a swap before... I read AA's and Downey's conversion manual and figured it all out in '96. Mud is a great resource to have access to. I hired a NHRA certified welder to weld in my mounts ($60 well spent) and an exhaust shop built the exhaust. 28 years later it's still going strong.
Edit... I should mention that my first $300 SBC packed it in a few years ago, and it was a direct bolt in to swap in another $300 (much cleaner) 350 which only had 70k miles on it. A new timing chain and some gaskets and its ready for another 20+ years.
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EWheeler
GOLD Star
Love the rear fuel fill, have never seen that before for a rear tank. Beautiful work you have done on this. You have to be super thrilled and very proud.
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- #80
In between work and life in general it’s getting closer to button pushing time.
Settled on where to put the battery. Since it has the 4L60e and no clutch master the battery fits in the drivers side nicely. Just have to figure out how to support it.
Transmission cooler lines are run, wiring except turn signals and running lights are finished. Working on bleeding brakes.
Not sure how I missed it but the engine oil pan drain plug was JBWeld repaired. Ordered a new slightly smaller pan. Will help with DS clearance too.
Looking like a Landcruiser again.
Settled on where to put the battery. Since it has the 4L60e and no clutch master the battery fits in the drivers side nicely. Just have to figure out how to support it.
Transmission cooler lines are run, wiring except turn signals and running lights are finished. Working on bleeding brakes.
Not sure how I missed it but the engine oil pan drain plug was JBWeld repaired. Ordered a new slightly smaller pan. Will help with DS clearance too.
Looking like a Landcruiser again.
