fittings 37s to a KDSS LC (partial build thread as well)

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NoClue

NoClue

Joined
Jul 23, 2020
Threads
9
Messages
538
Location
USA
Greetings all! I have completed a tundra front end conversion to my 16' land cruiser.

Parts list :

JBA upper control arms
Moog lower control arms
Moog tie rods
factory 200 eccentric cam bolts
Rebooted tundra CVs
I had my knuckles welded with total chaos gussets

37test3.webp


Im currenly using 200 series king coilovers. I had a friend measure the length on his on his tundra, and they were the same length.
 
Sounds like there’s some cutting in your future. I applaud you for the attempt.
 
37test2.webp


and heres a glimmer of hope. This is a 37 at full turn in relation to the KDSS arm. This can only be achieved with a 1.25" spacer on a +25mm offset wheel. According to tiresize.com, this is .27" further away compared to a 0 offset wheel.

I will be fiddling around with a body lift in the next coming weeks. I'll also be removing my king shocks and unbolting the outer tie rod to fully articulate the suspension and steering and see what is making contact. I don't mind trimming fenders as they are already heavily scratched and dented from the tight east coast trails. I'm just feeling apprehensive as I have a long range tank, and am unsure how the hoses will react to a 1" lift. I guess we'll find out as I start the process.
 
Yank that coil and bump at full lock - I think you’ll need to trim the bumper wings
 
NoClue said:
View attachment 3292666

and heres a glimmer of hope. This is a 37 at full turn in relation to the KDSS arm. This can only be achieved with a 1.25" spacer on a +25mm offset wheel. According to tiresize.com, this is .27" further away compared to a 0 offset wheel.

I will be fiddling around with a body lift in the next coming weeks. I'll also be removing my king shocks and unbolting the outer tie rod to fully articulate the suspension and steering and see what is making contact. I don't mind trimming fenders as they are already heavily scratched and dented from the tight east coast trails. I'm just feeling apprehensive as I have a long range tank, and am unsure how the hoses will react to a 1" lift. I guess we'll find out as I start the process.
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I assume this is with stock arms? Have you thought about Tundra arms that may help this clearance?
 
ga12r1 said:
On my truck i ended up cutting about 3"off the front fenders. You are also going to be looking at ditching the washer reservoir. There was no way I could get the KDSS to work with the 37X13.50. Im running what would be equivalent to about a -10 offset up front, rear is about +15.

The rear is kind of a pain too, the AC lines are a little bit of an issue, and a lot of bumpstop is needed.

My truck is fully functional now though. I can wheel hard as I want with no clearance issues. I did ditch KDSS though(and don't miss it)

BTW, it's a gotdamn beast.

View attachment 3292785

View attachment 3292786
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Body lift ?

I don't think i want to ditch kdss
 
ga12r1 said:
On my truck i ended up cutting about 3"off the front fenders. You are also going to be looking at ditching the washer reservoir. There was no way I could get the KDSS to work with the 37X13.50. Im running what would be equivalent to about a -10 offset up front, rear is about +15.

The rear is kind of a pain too, the AC lines are a little bit of an issue, and a lot of bumpstop is needed.

My truck is fully functional now though. I can wheel hard as I want with no clearance issues. I did ditch KDSS though(and don't miss it)

BTW, it's a gotdamn beast.

View attachment 3292785

View attachment 3292786
Click to expand...
Do you mind sharing how you ditched KDSS, and what your impressions are now that you don’t have hydraulic sway control?

I’ve got a LX rear axle, and my plan is to ditch KDSS, no front bar and use a higher spring rate rear Dobinson or OME bar for armored trucks. I had a similar setup in the past and I have not been satisfied with any other suspension setup since.
 
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ga12r1 said:
I do not run a body lift.

It looks like from the photos you supplied you are running a Kdss bar relocation bracket. IMO if you are running a BL and a relocation bracket just to keep kdss then what’s the point? Especially with 37s. The system is gonna be so far away from the way it was designed I just can’t see the use. If you think you need an anti sway bar on what should be a trail truck(why else run 37s) then just run tundra, or LX antisway bars or just do an antirock bar in the rear 🤷🏻‍♂️
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The body lift isn't for the kdss, it's for clearing the fenders with 37s without running gigantic bump stops. It's still primarily a road vehicle that sees a ton of miles, so keeping kdss is important for my usage. If you're running giant bump stops, then that's the point of 37s ? Also, are those 18s you're running ?
 
Oh, so then you only have .5" more sidewall than a 35x12.5x17
 
@NoClue are you geared?

Also, just throwing it out there… I have been running no front sway bar for about 8-9 months on 35s with the same rear shock mount mod @ga12r1 is mentioning and a fully spaced down front coil over.

Articulation is far greater, you’re just intentionally trading compression travel for droop travel

I think a body lift would help for sure with clearance, you still need a huge drop on your bumps.

It seems like anyone running 37s and really wheels there truck, is either in an LX or has lost kdss all together.

Looking forward to seeing you getting this all worked out!
 
Killacaviar said:
Articulation is far greater, you’re just intentionally trading compression travel for droop travel
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At what point do you start worrying about CVs running out of effective angle while maintaining strength?
 
bloc said:
At what point do you start worrying about CVs running out of effective angle while maintaining strength?
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I have broken one, I also have a spare in my drawer. I am conscious of it, but happy to dance that line. Others may not be.

Lower control arm bushings have a pretty large impact on droop. With tundra components I would imagine control arm bushings would bind before your in real danger.
 
ga12r1 said:
Yeah. I run 37x13.50x18
I’ve moved my rear shock mounts and run 2” extended rod ends so I actually use all my shock. I also run factory coilover spacers upfront to move the travel down. Zero waste. I just have a huge amount of droop 🤷🏻‍♂️
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Got any pictures? Love to see what folks do to fit 37s! The body lift helped me bump the 37s at factory height without hitting anything
 
ga12r1 said:
Yeah. I run 37x13.50x18
I’ve moved my rear shock mounts and run 2” extended rod ends so I actually use all my shock. I also run factory coilover spacers upfront to move the travel down. Zero waste. I just have a huge amount of droop 🤷🏻‍♂️
Click to expand...

Killacaviar said:
@NoClue are you geared?

Also, just throwing it out there… I have been running no front sway bar for about 8-9 months on 35s with the same rear shock mount mod @ga12r1 is mentioning and a fully spaced down front coil over.

Articulation is far greater, you’re just intentionally trading compression travel for droop travel

I think a body lift would help for sure with clearance, you still need a huge drop on your bumps.

It seems like anyone running 37s and really wheels there truck, is either in an LX or has lost kdss all together.

Looking forward to seeing you getting this all worked out!
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Thank you for the words of encouragement, it means a lot in the face of the hivemind. Yes, I am regeared. 4.30s with the 8 speed
 
ga12r1 said:
In my case it’s when I break them. I keep a spare in the truck and change at least one of them after every hard wheeling trip or so. I haven’t broke one since moving to 37s but I get clicking after hard trips most of the time.
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You are a ‘MUD treasure. Keep preaching!
 
NoClue said:
Thank you for the words of encouragement, it means a lot in the face of the hivemind. Yes, I am regeared. 4.30s with the 8 speed
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Sorry to offend you. I was just trying to offer some tips from my experience of fitting and running 37s hard on my 200.
I’ve deleted all my comments. Wouldn’t want to gatekeep 👍
 
NoClue said:
I'm just feeling apprehensive as I have a long range tank, and am unsure how the hoses will react to a 1" lift. I guess we'll find out as I start the process.
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The LRA tank is mounted to the frame so a body lift shouldn't make much difference there.
 
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