are you talking about the front wheel possibly? is it real cold out, that will affect the grease, making it thicker and harder to move. i usually spin the wheel a bunch of times. are you doing it fully loaded or with just caps bolted on (fully loaded, you're also pulling the weight of the rotor/caliper/etc).
You talking about setting the front knucke bearing preload or front wheel bearings?
For the knuckle bearings
Did you put the spacer plates back in the same location? There are some on top and some on bottom. If you ordered a kit, they usually come with extras.
For the wheel bearings
You tighten the big nut to give the proper bearing preload. Tighten it and rotate it like you said and then back it off some. Did you lube the new bearing up good before you installed it?
I see from your info that you are definitely in some cold, like was said cold will greatly affect the viscosity of the grease. This unfortunately sounds like it may be your first wheel bearing job so you don't have experience telling you how much grease is right and how much tension feels right.
If you followed the steps in the FSM exactly, used the correct grease and it is about 34 degrees Fahrenheit I think that 25lbs is about right. If it is much warmer than that, maybe a bit tight.
Take the truck for a spin, get it up to speed, warm up the grease, come back and check the preload then all will be right
good luck
yes, it's the front knuckles and it's not my first time, they are fully loaded with rotors, used the correct grease and amounts, followed FSM very closely. got the spacers in the same place... was only one between the first nut and the bearing.
thought maybe the temp might cause an issue... i'll finishing putting it together and take it for a drive. This truck is sold, but i want it right for the new owner!
thanks guys!
If you changed the knuckle bearings sometimes the old spacers on top and bottom of the knuckles do not work and you have to use others.
When you say spacer and nut that sounds like you are talking about the wheel bearing. For the wheel bearing the spacers do not matter you just want the one plate between the nut and bearing so it presses it evenly.
the fsm shows the ugly way of centering the birfield in the spindle and this measurement is best kept using the original shims or original thickness new shims on the bottom of the knuckle casting. the top shims can be added or removed to loosen or increase the preload. rarely do the shims remain the same with new bearings and races. fish pull should only be done with the knuckle fitted with arm and bottom cap, no wipers bolted on rear nor the other calipers etc.
I shoot toward the high side of scale because new bearings will loosen with time.
...but 25 is too high if the pull is measured on the housng naked.
Knuckles or wheel bearings?
Wheel bearings would fit your comment about "only one spacer between nut and bearing"
There is a thrust washer between the preload nut, they are one size and the adjustment is done with the nut????????
I'm confused
Knuckles can not be worked on or tested with anything attached.
Wheel bearings should not be checked with calipers attached.
Cold grease on wheel bearings + 25lbs. seems only a bit high
25lbs. on knuckles is to high, cold grease or not.
You could do it the outback way - no fishscale, just use fingers. Tighten, turn back and forth, loosen. (This seats the bearings.) Then adjust till just you just feel a bit of play, then 1/8 turn tighter. If cold temps are an issue, as it appears they may be, drive 10 miles first, then do the above. I bet millions of cruiser front bearings have been adjusted this way...
