First time off road - impressive (1 Viewer)

[calamaridog]

Not bad but a far cry from hardcore

So do you have disconnects for the sway bar or what?

Pardon my ignorance but I didn't research the 80's much after I bought the 100.

And yes, Schott's does leave himself open but that's why we love him. He just picks himself up and sticks it right back in there.

 

[FirstToy]

with swaybars,

c-dog, dunno man clown's 80 looks pretty impressive with the flex...35's and it's all hanging out of the wheelwells.

 

[Thai]

Since there is some confusion about ATRAC, center diff lock, and when to lock, here is an excerpt from what i wrote on my forum about 4runner's system: (applies to 2000-up TLC with ATRAC and VSC)

To LOCK the center differential (thus, TRUE 50/50 power split between front and rear axle), you need to push the button to the left of the steering wheel on dash. This should be done only on loose terrain (because of 50/50 split) to prevent binding of the center differential. Again, this will disable the VSC (stability control), allowing you to power through mud (which you cannot do effectively if VSC is ON).

When off-roading in rough terrain or mud, you need to LOCK the center diff because it turns OFF VSC. Because, if you are stuck in mud, VSC may interpret your attempts to get out as oversteer/understeer (especially if you are sliding back and forth). Therefore, it WILL cut power (dethrottle). With VSC off, ATRAC can function with full engine power to get you out. Thus, you can spin all four wheels! I have seen this on my brother's Lexus LX470 and Discovery. THAT IS WHY YOU LOCK THE CENTER DIFF, among other reasons!

In reality, the MAIN reason most people LOCK the center diff in the 4Runner is to turn OFF VSC. Very few off-roaders (esp. beginners) will ever see the need of the true 50/50% split. An example is if BOTH your front (or rear) wheels or 3 wheels are in mud (no traction)...in which case, locking the center diff is a good thing because it allows 50% of power to be routed to the AXLE that still has the wheel(s) with traction. Without the center diff LOCK, 100% power will be routed to the axle that has both wheels slipping (thus, you are stuck)...even if you have your truck in 4wd.

If you want to learn more, then here is the thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?threadid=12

You just have to shift through some 4runner stuff. ATRAC is pretty cool techno-wizardry.

Summary from above (if you're too lazy to read the whole thing):

1. Lock center diff when off-roading. A must IMO.
2. If you're stuck in mud or sand or need to climb a muddy hill, then you need to rev your engine past about 2500-3000 rpms to prevent (or hope to prevent) ATRAC from slowing you down. This is IMPORTANT because very few people know this.
3. ATRAC = Limited-slip differential in effectiveness.
4. Should be in 4-LO over technical terrain to provide more control & power AND to prevent destroying the terrain (tread lightly!).
5. UNlock your center diff when you go back ON-road.
6. VSC is good for on-road...bad for off-road.
7. Locking center diff does NOT turn off ATRAC.

Hope this helps.

 

[clownmidget]

Not bad but a far cry from hardcore

It's all relative. It's "hardcore" compared to a 100 Next time I'll stick a ruler in there for perspective. My main point was to jab Shotts about his IFS "travel" and being "crossed up". The OME L-shocks have 11" of travel and that's what it gets. Still brewing on what to do to change that.

So do you have disconnects for the sway bar or what?

Working on "cheap-o" ones for the front only. The rear is gone and will stay that way. The front really does make a big difference for road handling so the disconnects are being tested now. They aren't "quick" though, just easier than unbolting them.

I really dread responding to this since it might get that MB guy bent out of shape again.

I can at least see that several 100 folks are really doing incredible trails with their trucks. And my next LC will definitely be a 100-series, a HZJ-105...

 

[FirstToy]

uh oh, I feel those 80-urges brewing again....

 

[dclee]

uh oh, I feel those 80-urges brewing again....

Yeah man, a used, fully locked 80 is now selling for less than a used, beat up, stock 40!

They're so cheap that you could get one and mod the heck out of it for trail use, and drive your nice 4Runner to work every day and be happy as a clam!

Do it, buy the 80... (insert subliminal message here)...

 

[calamaridog]

c-dog, dunno man clown's 80 looks pretty impressive with the flex...35's and it's all hanging out of the wheelwells.

I'm just busting his nuts I would be driving a 97 LX450 right now but I had to compromise with the wife. She really likes the 100 series. So much so, that I have to remind her it is MY truck.

When her Heep is all paid off, it may become MY trade in on an older LC or another Tacoma.

IFS gets you there, it's just not pretty

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

The OME L-shocks have 11" of travel and that's what it gets.


Working on "cheap-o" ones for the front only. The rear is gone and will stay that way. The front really does make a big difference for road handling so the disconnects are being tested now. They aren't "quick" though, just easier than unbolting them.

.

OK Clown, I have to hurt ya!

1. L-shocks will go on the rear of the 100 too, simply by changing the bushing out. I decided against doing that because I though the valving might be different. In any event, the rear can match.

2. The front? You're right (and that sucks ), travel is better in the 80 by about 2.5-inches, though you don't get the 11-inches shock travel (~14 wheel travel) in the front because the bushing limits it and you're supposed to lower your bump stops to avoid hurting the L-shock. ;p