Ferkels Fantastic Voyage aka 99 miles to the new sty!

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trainbufftony said:
In addition to lowering the freezing point coolant raises the boiling point.
I tend to run 100% and I don't dilute mine.
That way if its 116* and I have to top up at a stream for whatever reason, im still concentrated enough to not boil out the coolant.
I also tend to run old fashioned green because you can still get it everywhere, although they will always try and sell you the 50% stuff, so he careful.
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Unfortunately the heat transfer coefficient of pure ethylene glycol is around 10% lower than a 50:50 water mixture. It also has a much higher viscosity which lowers the efficiency of your water pump.

If you/we weren’t worried about freezing conditions then 100% water is the best mixture to run.
 
trainbufftony said:
In addition to lowering the freezing point coolant raises the boiling point.
I tend to run 100% and I don't dilute mine.
That way if its 116* and I have to top up at a stream for whatever reason, im still concentrated enough to not boil out the coolant.
I also tend to run old fashioned green because you can still get it everywhere, although they will always try and sell you the 50% stuff, so he careful.
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"cool" thanks. I think I'll do 100% as well.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
If you/we weren’t worried about freezing conditions then 100% water is the best mixture to run.
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I’m not going to agree, you need something to control corrosion at minimum. My 0.02
 
Ol Yeller said:
I’m not going to agree, you need something to control corrosion at minimum. My 0.02
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I absolutely agree. I was only speaking about how to obtain maximum heat transfer. There are lots of corrosion inhibiter additives that are made for auto cooling systems.

FWIW, I bought a 1983 FJ45 Troopy and a 1994 FZJ75 pickup in Saudi. Both were running straight water when I bought them and I assume they had been that way for some time. I flushed both systems almost immediately and the water had a brown tinge but no particulates to speak of. Visually everything looked fine (limited value at best, I know). I refilled with a 50:50 mix and haven't had any cooling issues with either one. They were routinely ran in ambient temperatures as high as 120 F.

I'm not advocating running 100% water so please don't misunderstand my previous post. I'm merely pointing out the misconception that 100% coolant might be a better solution that 50:50; it isn't.
 
Also...it would be beneficial to mention distilled water is the "water" that should be used. If you buy concentrated antifreeze (which is great...who wants to pay for water?), ensure you add distilled water (not tap water) to prevent corrosion, mineral build-up, clogging, etc.

This is really interesting...so if you look at the freezing point of ethylene glycol based water solutions the ideal mix to prevent freezing (say if you are in Alaska) is actually shifted ever so slightly toward a higher concentration (~60-70% of ethylene glycol) vs. the manufacturer recommended 50/50 mix. As @WarDamnEagle pointed out, the ideal mixture to prevent against freezing degrades if one was to continue adding more ethylene glycol or resort to 100% ethylene glycol. Apparently, per Dr. Google, "as the proportion of glycol increases, the solution's freezing point starts to increase back toward that of the pure solvent (ethylene glycol), resulting in reduced freeze protection. This is a characteristic feature of eutectic systems, where the minimum freezing point is achieved only at a specific ratio of the two components." The why here continues into a chemistry discussion...which is fascinating.

The manufacturer recommendation of a 50/50 mix is a one size fits most approach, similar to baseball hats or oil viscosity charts and using 10W30. I learned something new today, pretty cool. My 2 cents...

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

Ethylene Glycol Heat-Transfer Fluid Properties: Density, Data & Charts

Properties like freezing point, viscosity, specific gravity and specific heat of ethylene glycol based heat-transfer fluids, or brines.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com www.engineeringtoolbox.com

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The freezing is somewhat of a moot point for me given I'm not in an area that freezes but, maximizing cooling efficiency / avoiding corrosion is of interest for sure.. That said its still interesting info. Seems counter intuitive that as you approach 100% coolant the freezing temp increases. Learn sumtin new every day :). I am done for today. Thx.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Unfortunately the heat transfer coefficient of pure ethylene glycol is around 10% lower than a 50:50 water mixture. It also has a much higher viscosity which lowers the efficiency of your water pump.

If you/we weren’t worried about freezing conditions then 100% water is the best mixture to run.
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Does corrosion become a factor w/ 100% water?
 
I am curious about how long your coolant is viable once in the cooling system. I am sure it depends on things like the number of heat cycles, etc, but I have heard that "old" coolant will become acidic.

Another think I have heard, but cannot confirm, is that you do not want to use de-ionized water for mixing with coolant. Distilled water is fine, but de-ionized is supposed to react with reactive metals in the cooling system.
 
PabloCruise said:
Does corrosion become a factor w/ 100% water?
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PabloCruise said:
I am curious about how long your coolant is viable once in the cooling system. I am sure it depends on things like the number of heat cycles, etc, but I have heard that "old" coolant will become acidic.

Another think I have heard, but cannot confirm, is that you do not want to use de-ionized water for mixing with coolant. Distilled water is fine, but de-ionized is supposed to react with reactive metals in the cooling system.
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Straight water will rust the iron in the block.

Coolant has a life. There’s several methods of testing to determine how good it is.

Distilled is the water of choice because of the zero amount of suspended minerals. Hose water, whether it’s city water or well water can have extremely high dissolved solids counts, and those solids end up attaching themselves to the inside walls of the system (most observably to the inside of the radiator).

I wouldn’t think de-ionized water is plentiful and cheap enough for people to consider throwing in a cooling system, but I’m sure someone had the bright idea.
 
RUSH55 said:
Straight water will rust the iron in the block.

Coolant has a life. There’s several methods of testing to determine how good it is.

Distilled is the water of choice because of the zero amount of suspended minerals. Hose water, whether it’s city water or well water can have extremely high dissolved solids counts, and those solids end up attaching themselves to the inside walls of the system (most observably to the inside of the radiator).

I wouldn’t think de-ionized water is plentiful and cheap enough for people to consider throwing in a cooling system, but I’m sure someone had the bright idea.
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We had a DI water system at a past job. The safety training message was not to drink it b/c it would lead to mineral deficiencies as the DI water pulled the minerals from your body.

Who knew water could be so Thirsty?
 
Tomba said:
Was gonna tackle another small project today, ebrake/and the dual seal but the nut holding the drum on is a 29mm or 1 1/8 neither of which I have.
Amazon to the rescue :). Maybe a good thing this whole thing happned as I had less then a quart of oil in the t-case:oops:.

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IIRC, my original nuts were slightly smaller than the new replacement nuts I got from Toyota.
 
Hot damn, that nut on the back of the xfer case is ON there.. Tried a breaker bar but no dice, lent out my impact wrench of course.... Gonna hopefully get this all done sooner than later. Picked up this cool MIni Torch at HF for doing heat shrink wire connectors too.

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RUSH55 said:
Remember when you go back together with the driveshaft u-joint slip-yokes that they need to be lined up with the u-joint orientation on the fixed end. The proper term is phase or phasing.
If you don’t get them properly “phased” you will have major vibration issues.

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Yep, thanks for the reminder!
 
Tomba said:
Hot damn, that nut on the back of the xfer case is ON there.. Tried a breaker bar but no dice, lent out my impact wrench of course.... Gonna hopefully get this all done sooner than later. Picked up this cool MIni Torch at HF for doing heat shrink wire connectors too.

View attachment 4115350
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That nut is designed with an indent "ring" (for lack a better technical term) which is supposed to be punched down into the groove in the shaft to prevent it from backing off. You have to use a punch or chisel to back that indent off before loosening. I'm sure you did that already but just in case.
 
MudDauber said:
Is the term here to, "stake" the nut (more or less the predecessor to Loctite)? Just curious...thanks
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Yes; I believe that is the correct term. Just wasn’t sure if it’s called an indent ring nut. Maybe it’s a stake nut?
 
Yep… I stake my right nut on it…😂
 
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