Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Its NOT a stake nut. just a castle nut w cotter pin. see post #1031That nut is designed with an indent "ring" (for lack a better technical term) which is supposed to be punched down into the groove in the shaft to prevent it from backing off. You have to use a punch or chisel to back that indent off before loosening. I'm sure you did that already but just in case.
We were probably all expecting it to look like this?Its NOT a stake nut. just a castle nut w cotter pin.
I'll be visiting that nut soon as I plan on the getting a poor mans hf55 (3.7 rear diff)I stand corrected. Was thinking about this nut on the diff output. Haven’t staked this one down yet.
View attachment 4115689
Kind of like the equivalent of crossing the streams, eh?Remember when you go back together with the driveshaft u-joint slip-yokes that they need to be lined up with the u-joint orientation on the fixed end. The proper term is phase or phasing.
If you don’t get them properly “phased” you will have major vibration issues.
View attachment 4115397
Mmm, steak...Is the term here to, "stake" the nut (more or less the predecessor to Loctite)? Just curious...thanks
Thanks for the FUP reminder. See post #1035.Kind of like the equivalent of crossing the streams, eh?
View attachment 4116299
Thanks! Hoping to be cruising around by EOM if things go as planned...Bravo! Looking good.
Yes. ive heard that as well re GL-5. I was going to ask about Redline but you answered that for me.Certainly no expert…but a bit of a gambler so, with that in mind…. I am using REDLINE MT90 in my transmission/transfer case… frankly, it really seems to make a difference in the smoothness and feel of each shift. That is something i’d heard and was preparing to feel..while subjective, it does really “feel” better.
Also read that the materials the synchro’s are made of is different and that is one reason you should not use GL-5 in that set of cases
AmsoilQuestion: looks like Lucas 80W-90 gear oil is GL5 rated not GL4 and, their 75WT -90 is GL4 but synthetic. Is there another NON synthetic oil that is recommended for these old x-fer and trans. cases that's GL4 or is the 80W-90 GL5 ok to use?
I also use MT-90 in all my manual transmission but it is fully synthetic; which means it's better than non-synthetic FWIW. Better to not ask why I say that or we'll go down a deep rabbit hole.Yes. ive heard that as well re GL-5. I was going to ask about Redline but you answered that for me.Thanks
Lets dance around the hole for a sec..... Ive read that non synthetic bodes better for older cases that are not the most most "leak free" .....I also use MT-90 in all my manual transmission but it is fully synthetic; which means it's better than non-synthetic FWIW. Better to not ask why I say that or we'll go down a deep rabbit hole.
No but it is an older case and will have a new seal on the end of the xfer case. I just wanna do this right ...Are you having any leaking/weeping currently?
Define right? 100% ethylene glycol in your cooling system isn’t right, for example. Synthetic lubricants are still made from petroleum feedstocks. They are just more controlled in many ways, not the least of which is having the optimal amount of carbon atoms for the task. In other words they are more specific to the task than a wide spectrum of feedstocks, some of which work and some not so much. There’s lots of anecdotal tales about they are too slippery, ect. If you have a leak then you should fix it. I am sure if you don’t want synthetic lubricants that you can find a GL4 non synthetic. No idea about those though as I haven’t used them in years.No but it is an older case and will have a new seal on the end of the xfer case. I just wanna do this right ...