Fading black paint (1 Viewer)

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Jul 6, 2016
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Los Angeles
Not the vehicle paint, but on the wheel well and windshield wiper dash (not sure what to call these). See pictures below. Any idea what may be causing this / how to best fix it? 2022 HE with 15k miles so a little disappointed to see this fading so quickly.

What’s the best way to repaint / spray / touch this up?

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Those parts aren't painted, they are bare black plastic (at least on every 200 I've seen).

Being that new, you could probably take it back to the dealer.

I wouldn't paint it.

They have products to revive trim, like Back to Black and Trim Restorer that are made for this.

Don't use WD40, it works initially, but quickly becomes a dust covered mess.

If it were older, I'd suggest the old propane torch trick. It works really well to revitalize faded plastics.

I think that part name is something like windshield cowl.
 
303 protectant does a great job. Just get it on the plastic only and don't get it on your skin.
 
Cerakote —get this and don’t look back. It’s a more permanent solution that adding some protectant every few weeks. In objective tests, cerakote last a very , very long time and is very easy to apply. I used this on my 08, and all the black trim looks brand new and has for months.
 
Cerakote —get this and don’t look back. It’s a more permanent solution that adding some protectant every few weeks. In objective tests, cerakote last a very , very long time and is very easy to apply. I used this on my 08, and all the black trim looks brand new and has for months.
I just went to order some of this to try it out, but the Amazon reviews are pretty negative.
 
Cerakote —get this and don’t look back. It’s a more permanent solution that adding some protectant every few weeks. In objective tests, cerakote last a very , very long time and is very easy to apply.
I just went to order some of this to try it out, but the Amazon reviews are pretty negative.
Agree. Do not use it on smooth trim, like between the doors. The bad reviews are from people using it on smooth shiny trim.

Here’s my 160k mile 08. This trim was gray and sun baked.

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I have very good success with SEM system for trim and bumper paint. I used it on my Outback cowl trim (like you) and it looks like new after 3 years of car being parked outside. When I got the car it was light gray from spending 10 years in El Paso Texas sun.
It is a bit more involved process than just spraying some paint but the results are worth the effort and expense (cost me $75 on supplies).

About all the "back to black" products out there - I tried a few of them and they work for their INTENDED use. That is maintenance and for temporary fix. They do not last. They are like wax for your painted surfaces. I'm now using Meguiar's G15812 Plastic Restorer Black once every couple of washings. I'm not using wax on the black textured plastics as it leaves residue.

For SEM paint application is like this:
  1. Clean w/ SEM Soap & damp gray scuffing pad, raise water and dry. Inspect part again to make sure the finish is dull and part is clean. If not redo the shiny/dirty spots, rinse and dry.
  2. Clean w/ SEM Plastic Prep lint free cloth
  3. Test: if water beads to surface repeat cleaning
  4. Mask what needs to be masked!
  5. For ABS, PVC and other similar plastics:
    1. apply a medium wet coat of Sand Free. In cold temperatures apply a few thin coats as applying a medium coat will run!
    2. while Sand Free is wet apply SEM Trim Black (or whatever color): 2 medium coats, flash time 5-10 min, dry to touch 1h, full cure 24-48h
  6. For TPO, EPDM, PP and similar
    1. apply SEM XXX Adhesion Promoter
    2. apply SEM Trim Black (or whatever color): 2 medium coats, flash time 5-10 min, dry to touch 1h, full cure 24-48h
  7. If the type of plastic is unknown, place a small amount of Sand Free on the back of the plastic and rub it with your gloved finger. If the plastic smears and melts, use Sand Free as your adhesion promoter. If the Sand Free does not have an effect on the plastic, use Plastic Adhesion Promoter or XXX Adhesion Promoter.

My Outback cowl plastic is PA6-G15-M10 type and so I used second method, #5 above. I put 3 paint coats on.

What you need for prep:
3M Gray detail scuff pads (gray = ultra fine)
SEM 39362 Soap
SEM 38353 Plastic & Leather Prep
SEM 77723 XXX Adhesion Promoter
SEM 38363 Sand Free

Paint - pick the one that matches the plastic color better. For my Outback 39143 was the better match. There are other colors available.
SEM 39033 Satin Charcoal Metallic
SEM 39143 Matte/Satin Black

Other tips:
- Prep work is paramount!
- In colder temperatures make sure the paint can is warmed up. Use a heat gun. Warm it up between coats as the can gets colder.
- Keep the painting area warm using a fan heater. Painting in the cold is very challenging with large variations in texture.
- Curing time is very important! Paint is very fragile during the curing period. Make sure you wait 48h to make sure is fully cured.

The process looks complicated but it is actually not. Most of the time is spent on cleaning the parts, drying and masking that you have to do no matter what paint you use. What I like about this system is that there is no guessing on what you have to do and if you follow the instructions the quality is great - you do not need to be an experienced painter, do reduction, filtering, etc.
 

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