Factory recovery hooks on old style ARB?I have an old style ARB 60 Series winch bumpe (1 Viewer)

[Random Dan]

I have an old style ARB 60 Series winch bumper that came off of a parts truck sitting in the barn waiting to go on my 60. The previous owner installed two of the factory recovery hooks to the plate uprights. I've seern other 60s with the same setup. Was the ARB designed to be used like this? Is it sturdy enough for a recovery point, or would it be worth adding backing plates on the other side of the uprights? Thanks guys!

(I wasn't sure if this post was better suited for the recovery subforum or the 60-specific subforum, so I posted in both.)

 

[Living in the Past]

Since it was drilled at the factory for the factory tow hooks to bolt on I would think so. The used ARB I bought for my FJ62 had one installed. I fitted the one my cruiser on the other side. Seems as least as secure spot to use as a recovery point as the place on the bottom for the D rings.

 

[Random Dan]

Since it was drilled at the factory for the factory tow hooks to bolt on I would think so. The used ARB I bought for my FJ62 had one installed. I fitted the one my cruiser on the other side. Seems as least as secure spot to use as a recovery point as the place on the bottom for the D rings.

I'm not sure I trust the d-ring mounts either...

 

[Living in the Past]

I'm not sure I trust the d-ring mounts either...

X2

I have a pair of D rings. The shank fits the hole but not enough clearance to back side for the shank to thread into the D ring.

Option one drill the hole out in the bumper.

Option two grind the D ring down to fit.

I went with option three use the factory tow hooks.

 

[Douglas S]

The D-Ring mounts on ARB's aren't rated for recovery. According to ARB the original recovery points are to be retained.

 

[george_tlc]

The ARB tabs with the holes AFAIK to be used ONLY for the ARB hilift adapter to stabilise the hilift, NOT for recovery.

cheers,
george.

 

[Living in the Past]

The D-Ring mounts on ARB's aren't rated for recovery. According to ARB the original recovery points are to be retained.

Only problem with that is the factory mounted hook has to be removed to install the bumper. Kind of hard to use what is no longer there. But agree those taps are to weak to use as a recovery point. I'll used the hooks over the shackles. It would be easier to drive out with a bent bumper than bend or broken shackle. Too bad ARB didn't beef up the tabs on the bottom. Inline with the end of the frame rail would be the best location for recovery.

The ARB tabs with the holes AFAIK to be used ONLY for the ARB hilift adapter to stabilise the hilift, NOT for recovery.

That makes sense because my D ring didn't fit which is what you do to prevent people from using it for something it wasn't intended for. Have a picture by chance?

cheers,
george.

 

[sadam_husain]

Too bad ARB didn't beef up the tabs on the bottom. Inline with the end of the frame rail would be the best location for recovery.

Yeah its funny ARB make such well researched and developed products and they always let themselves down with the lack of means to put decent recovery points and hooks onto their Bars, I know a lot of the world likes using D shackles but the other half like us down here like using hooks. I mofified my bar in the end and did as you mentioned and we welded 2x 8mm plates either side of those tabs and took them through to the chassis mounts and redrilled them to mount hooks onto and we also plated and gusseted the underside of the bar with 6mm and 8mm plate to mount hooks up on top of the bar, mines a 70 series bar but pretty similar to a 60 series

 

[e9999]

Only problem with that is the factory mounted hook has to be removed to install the bumper. Kind of hard to use what is no longer there. snip

on some at least (my 80 for one) you can still use the factory loop after putting on an ARB. May need longer bolts and possibly spacer of course.

 

[doug720]

Here is my 60 with my ARB and the stock hooks. Solid mounting, good angle, tucked in tight and works well for me.

Doug

 

[Living in the Past]

on some at least (my 80 for one) you can still use the factory loop after putting on an ARB. May need longer bolts and possibly spacer of course.

No loop on the 60/62 series. Only a hook mounted to the top of the right frame rail that needs to be removed to install the bumper.

Here is my 60 with my ARB and the stock hooks. Solid mounting, good angle, tucked in tight and works well for me.

Doug

You bumper is different than mine. Mine covers and bolts to the bottom bracket riveted to the front of the frame rail. I doubt bolting to that bracket would be as good as yours which is bolted directly to the frame. Were the holes there or did you have to drill them?

 

[Random Dan]

No loop on the 60/62 series. Only a hook mounted to the top of the right frame rail that needs to be removed to install the bumper.



You bumper is different than mine. Mine covers and bolts to the bottom bracket riveted to the front of the frame rail. I doubt bolting to that bracket would be as good as yours which is bolted directly to the frame. Were the holes there or did you have to drill them?

His appears to be the newer style, which mounts up higher than the old style like you and I have.

I think what I'll probably end up doing is finding some big chunks o' steel and making shackle mounts that bolt to the bottom of the framerail.

 

[doug720]

I removed one of the rivets and drilled the rear hole. I left the old bumper bracket in place for an extra stiffener/backing and used the upper portion as a extra mounting point for the ARB. I mounted them at a slight downward angle for better bumper clearance and have only used them 2 times, but they worked very well in this position.

Plus with the stock bumper left in place, I could swap a stock bumper if I wanted.

The bumper and tow hooks are very solid, with the tow hooks probably better mounted better than stock.

Doug

 

[Living in the Past]

I think I will just use the hook/s where they are located on the bumper. In my first picture you can see the hook on the driver's side. Then on the other side in the middle picture it's on the right. That one was already there when I bought the bumper. I use mine so have two. Removed it to add the winch. It will still fit so with two I can use a sling between the two and reduce the stress in half at each point. Since recovery/winching is a slow process I can check the bumper just like I'm checking everything else reeling the winch in.

 

[Random Dan]

I just made an interesting discovery yesterday. The two holes in the bottom of the framerail are exactly the same spacing as the 80 series factory recovery loops. The only issue is that due to the width of base plate you will need to either trim the bumper mount tabs, or use a small spacing plate between the frame and recovery loops.

 

[Creeker]

Reviving an old thread rather than starting new. So, it seems the notches in the front of my ARB are for my hi-lift jack. I've seen articles on the interweb showing shackle mounts bolted to the face of the bumper, but it seems the votes here are against that idea. Am I reading that correctly?

 

[doug720]

To be clear, the part you have circled on my bumper is a tow bar mount, not a recovery point. I did make an adapter that uses the tow bar mount with pin to lock to lock a high lift jack to the bumper so it can't slip.

 

[Creeker]

Got it. It looks like you have a recovery hook bolted to the same bumper rail that the ARB is attached to. Is that right? Was it a standard size hook? It seems that despite all the ARBs that I see with shackles bolted to the face, that's not an advisable route. Yet, these guys market a kit for it: Expeditionware Backing Plates -- EE -- Expedition Exchange Incorporated

 

[Creeker]

This guy too (WARNING - JEEP!): ARB Bumper Prep 2 – Shackle Mounts – Inland Crossing

 

[doug720]

The hooks and hardware are stock 60 Series, and are bolted to the frame. The angle of the camera makes the front bolt look very close to the end of the frame, but it is over 1" away, and I left the bumper bracket as a doubler.